Raneron Posted October 19, 2023 Share Posted October 19, 2023 Hello, everyone! I have a question about charging Patton: Is it normal for the charger to turn on and off (green light and red light) several times as it approaches the end of the charge? I want to believe it's balancing, but I found it strange for the charger to turn on and off (including the fan turning on and off). Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Critzlez Posted October 20, 2023 Share Posted October 20, 2023 (edited) Yes. This is normal. Many people's stock patton charger, including mine, does the same. I don't think it's necessarily balancing, but just how it regulates the current. i.e it turns on and off to reduce the current during the CV charging phase. Edited October 20, 2023 by Critzlez 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 (edited) Quick question about the moment when it goes to the "pulse charging mode". After the winter break (couple of months without charging) I found that this "pulse charging" starting at the 83% (~120V), earlier it was visible almost at the full battery (~125V?). Anyone experienced such charging behavior? Seems that somehow ~120V is now the end of charging, as it is going slower and slower... Edited April 12 by PeWoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthraksi Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 5 hours ago, PeWoo said: Quick question about the moment when it goes to the "pulse charging mode". After the winter break (couple of months without charging) I found that this "pulse charging" starting at the 83% (~120V), earlier it was visible almost at the full battery (~125V?). Anyone experienced such charging behavior? Seems that somehow ~120V is now the end of charging, as it is going slower and slower... So if I understood correctly, it starts switching between charging and not charging at around 83%/120v? Something is wrong in that case, but hard to say what until you check a couple of things. First I would check the charger with a multimeter, just in case something happened to it while it was not in use. Unlikely, but possible and the better alternative. If the charger has a normal voltage coming out of it (126v), then it kinda points to the culprit being the battery. How charged was the battery when you left the wheel alone for the winter break? Did you check on it at any point, turn it on or something? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 (edited) Winter break is related only to more or less 2 months with no charging, the wheel was in garage (17 degree Celsius). Nothing bad. I checked batteries voltage. Both are 119V, display says 119,7. Still seems ok. Charger shows 125.6V. https://youtu.be/QUkhDbgkTFI?si=X8QHVhPndtk9UFgB Measuring voltage during the charging on the second port shows 125,6V and when pulse charge is triggered it is going down to 120V. 114,8V is showing on pins in port, without connected charger. Edited April 13 by PeWoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossi Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 I had the same thing. Press and hold the lower left butten. First you reach the normal menu. Hold it even longer and you reach the advanced menu. Use the upper left butten to scroll through the menu. Eventually you will reach two pages that should read "111 bl" and "111 br". If any of those is 0 instead, this BMS is damaged. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Thank you. It's 111 bl and 0 bl. How it can be repaired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossi Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Contact your vendor for a right side BMS. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Is it safe to ride on it? 120V seems enough for not very long trip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossi Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 I had no problem doing so but I don't know if the barreries get balanced. Actually I didn't fix it until now. I inspected the BMS but found nothing. After reassembling it was fine and never had a problem since. I suspect a loose contact. I have recieved a spare BMS but haven't put it in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted April 28 Share Posted April 28 (edited) OK, I need to "swap the two battery signal lines and plug them in to see if the missings ignal line will jump to the others side". Any advice? Is there a possibility to own these LeaperKim plugs to prepare a short wire for such diagnostic connection? Or maybe I can do it differently? Edited April 28 by PeWoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted April 29 Share Posted April 29 (edited) Ok, I managed to perform a test. Before (normal connection) - "111 bl" and "0 br". After swapping the connection left to right and right to left - "0 bl' and "0 br". Motherboard? Something else? Edited April 29 by PeWoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stickysock Posted May 4 Share Posted May 4 On 4/29/2024 at 10:38 AM, PeWoo said: Ok, I managed to perform a test. Before (normal connection) - "111 bl" and "0 br". After swapping the connection left to right and right to left - "0 bl' and "0 br". Motherboard? Something else? Troubleshooting 101 : -If you swap a suspected bad part and the symptom does not follow. That part is not the problem. -If the part is not the problem and the known good part you swapped doesnt present the same symptoms, you have elimanted both interconnections and the parts you are testing from being the problem. -In this case, you have a symptom that follows your swap with a known good, and you have a symptom that is present with the known good (battery pack). This indicates you have both a bad BMS/fuse on your battery and potentially a bad motherboard connection. Perhaps everything on that side was damaged at the same time. My concern now is that the bad battery pack may have damaged the other side of the Controllers battery inputs. (a common risk when swapping good parts with bad ones!) Your first check should be the least invasive which would be checking your battery fuses. If they ae charred or blown, DO NOT REPLACE THEM WITHOUT KNOWING WHY IT HAPPENED!!!! If you can remember an incident/overcurrent/crash/power surge responsible for the fuses blowing, THEN and ONLY THEN are they safe to replace. If both fuses turn out to be blown, do not charge, ride or turn on your wheel, it needs to be evaulated for safety, this would mean your pack/bms/controller is blowing fuses as soon as you plug it in to either side which is a very bad thing. If your fuses are good, swap your packs back to see if you can get back to your intial symptoms. Ping me here and Ill chime in my 2 cents on what should be next. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeWoo Posted May 7 Share Posted May 7 (edited) Thank you very much for all the details. Fuses seems ok. Default connection and my symptoms: Charging is going only to 120V, adv. menu shows: "111 bl" and "0 br". After swapping the battery packs connection left to right and right to left -> adv. menu shows "0 bl' and "0 br". Back to normal connection -> back to default symptoms, adv. menu shows: "111 bl" and "0 br". One more thing, from time to time I hear intensive beeping with this message (attached photo). So the conclusion may be that error was moved to the left side after battery swapping (bad right BMS?), but stayed also on the right side (bad motherboard?). After returning to the default configuration, nothing else happened, still adv. menu shows: "111 bl" and "0 br", fuses are still ok. Seems that I'm not able to check something more by myself, but any help with the conclusion will be useful. Thanks. Edited May 7 by PeWoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stickysock Posted May 9 Share Posted May 9 On 5/7/2024 at 12:45 AM, PeWoo said: Thank you very much for all the details. Fuses seems ok. Default connection and my symptoms: Charging is going only to 120V, adv. menu shows: "111 bl" and "0 br". After swapping the battery packs connection left to right and right to left -> adv. menu shows "0 bl' and "0 br". Back to normal connection -> back to default symptoms, adv. menu shows: "111 bl" and "0 br". One more thing, from time to time I hear intensive beeping with this message (attached photo). So the conclusion may be that error was moved to the left side after battery swapping (bad right BMS?), but stayed also on the right side (bad motherboard?). After returning to the default configuration, nothing else happened, still adv. menu shows: "111 bl" and "0 br", fuses are still ok. Seems that I'm not able to check something more by myself, but any help with the conclusion will be useful. Thanks. In this case you could have two things going on at once. The first and most likely is a bad cell in the battery pack. I would start with sending in the offending battery pack for repair or replacement. If all the fuses are good the other problem (why both sides show '0') is likely tied to how the right battery pack failed and if it took the controller with it. If the fuses arent blown I wouldnt expect a burnt connection on the board but maybe a blown capacitor or inductor. First things first I would get the battery checked out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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