NMY Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Hi All, I'm considering to buy a Master after my current V11. As I know the Master is from the the 2023 May batch, with Samsung 50E cells. Really love my V11 but it's not enough for me now, served me well for 2 years, but need a more beefy wheel. I'm a heavy rider (240lbs/110kg), I know that will cripple the wheel in many aspect, but I think it will be a huge leap after the 84V. So my questions: Are there any changelog(?) about what has been modified or corrected in the Master releases? I mean V1/V2/V3/V4(the latest?) What about the water resistance? I know they are not IP certified, but a sudden rain can catch me and also want to use it in all seasons without the constant stress of killing the wheel with moisture. How the board/mosfets performs? I want to use it only in the city, no offroading, 50-60km/h max speed. I'm living in Europe, and Master is around 2300-2400Eur (around 2500-2600USD) at the moment. Thank you in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 I absolutely love my Master, and remain in awe of its epic power and torque nearly a year after getting mine. And they are very reasonably priced these days... But you must be prepared to live with its down-sides, which are: Not waterproof, other than what you do yourself. Mine has survived multiple heavy rain episodes because I silicone'd the motor hub covers, re-greased the bearings, taped over my battery box screw holes and have a rucksack cover that I use to protect the entire top of the machine in rain, and made some effort to block the various holes into the motherboard compartment. If you can be bothered to do all that, it's fine, even in heavy rain. Rubbish suspension - it's basic, and does work fine for roads and cycle path use, but has a rather limited <8 cm of travel, and nearly every wheel that came after it did it better ! I am one of the few people who are happy with it, but most people feel the need to change the shock and / or linkage. Avoid versions with the plastic battery cases - V4 is the only option where those are metal. The stock pads are shit. You will need to replace those, and I recommend the grizzla pads and fairings, which add a lot to the machine in terms of crash protection, plastic battery case reinforcement (if needed) and covering of gaps in mainframe for additional waterproofing. You also get the helpful pickup handles that the factory standard model is missing, without which is very awkward to pick up the machine in situations where that is necessary. Hopefully it won't be very often, because it is very heavy as well, at just over 35 kilos, and more like 38 if you have the metal battery boxes. A lot of people don't like the CST tyre it comes with. I love that tyre now, but it has taken nearly a year for me to get used to and not mind the tippiness of it, which does lessen considerably as it wears down. The Master is a nightmare in high wind situations, where its top-heaviness, high pedal height and tippy tyre conspire to make your riding 'very challenging' on windy days... in fact I would say wind is much more of a hazard to a Master than rain is... But once you have one that you have made 'road-ready' then it can prove to be a very reliable machine - mine has never dropped me or cut-out, and I am largely unable to overpower it ! It is also very easy to disassemble, access and repair because it is a nice simple design. You can also change a tyre on it without disconnecting a single wire. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMY Posted August 26 Author Share Posted August 26 Thank you for the detailed description! I know that every wheel has it's own up and downside, I just want to be sure about which parts need a little finetune after I get the wheel Unfortunately, I have to sell my V11 first and there is a huge possibility that the master will run out of stock in the meanwhile. Anyways, thanks again, If I can, I'll buy the master. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mango Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 Of all the wheels I own (12), the Master is my hands down favourite wheel. It is zippy and fast, the power to weight ratio is unmatched. It needs a fair amount of work to get the most out of the Master, but I think it's worth it. 1) Change linkage and upgrade shock (optional) 2) Add bumpers for protection 3) Replace with higher quality bearings, and pack in marine grease 4) Semi-annually manual inspect/balance my packs 5) Replace heatsink thermal pad with thermal paste 6) Shave down sides of CST tire to a rounder profile 7) Replace charging and display boards on V2 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 22 minutes ago, Mango said: Change linkage and upgrade shock (optional) In version 4 of the Master that comes with the metal battery boxes, it also come with an improved linkage. Is this new linkage sufficient for city commuting? Or is it closer now to that of the EX30? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 On 8/25/2023 at 5:51 AM, Cerbera said: The Master is a nightmare in high wind situations, where its top-heaviness, high pedal height and tippy tyre conspire to make your riding 'very challenging' on windy days... in fact I would say wind is much more of a hazard to a Master than rain is... Exactly, but after I installed the 30mm lower pedal hangers from EUCYOU the wind problem is gone and lot of other problems/downsides too. 😁 Master V4 need also some work on the suspension sliders to make it smooth without jamming. New adjustable linkage is better, but still shit. Maybe enough for city commuting on nice roads if you set your expectations low. 😅 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 59 minutes ago, EUC Custom Power-Pads said: EUCYOU Yeah I was thinking about doing that myself. You got a contact for them btw, other than the instagram channel ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 @Easynick (Telegram) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 I'll also probably pick up a Master or T4 one day but I'm in no hurry because I'm happy with my older wheels. A metal battery box and lower pedal upgrade on older versions should be enough to get started. Some 2nd hand Masters go for nearly nothing. I don't even want to go faster than my current wheels can but I love the massive power reserves while still providing a seat and well positioned trolley handle, while providing a bit of added suspension comfort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMY Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 Got my V4 master today, thank you guys for the help! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Ride safe. Waterproof control board area. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) 6 hours ago, NMY said: Got my V4 master today, thank you guys for the help! Enjoy. It's a wonderful machine all the time it's working But look after it nicely, and give it some TLC in the areas where it is vulnerable and you should have a great time... Edited September 8 by Cerbera 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMY Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 Guys, is it normal that the wheel only charges to 132.4V? 90 min passed since the charger is green and according to the EUC world app, it won't go further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 (edited) 1 hour ago, NMY said: Guys, is it normal that the wheel only charges to 132.4V? The voltage coming out of your charger is set by a potentiometer inside the unit, and there have been a fair few reports that Begode don't always get that bang on, so it might be outputting a bit less. If that is the case it's not a massive problem, or unsafe to ride, and you are merely losing a few miles at the very top of your range, which shouldn't be an issue considering the relatively vast range of that wheel. Also you may need to factor in the 'voltage leaking' that happens with the latest charge board Begode was putting in these, in which it charges to the max, but then slowly leaks voltage over the following hours, so if you test it in EUCW hours after charging has stopped the voltage may well be lower and require a top-up. Incidentally, Begode have never, to my knowledge at least, explained why their latest charge boards do that, but again, it's a fairly minor and easily circumnavigated problem. If you have a multimeter you can test the output of the charger to see what it is dispensing, and there are youtube videos that show you what to tweak inside the charger if you really want to get it exactly correct, but be VERY careful doing that as it needs to be on and active while you do it, and there are some 'big volts' going about inside it ! You probably want a non-metal tool for that. After a year of riding my master only gets to 133.4 max these days, but a small drop-off is to be expected after that sort of time, and again, isn't really an issue unless the disparity between 134.4 and what you get is more than a couple of volts, which might suggest some pack imbalance, which you can address by charging / balancing packs individually, though I have never done this myself, so not the best person to advise... Edited September 8 by Cerbera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punxatawneyjoe Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Looks like a great wheel for performance, i would just be careful near the top end. This guy in my town recently got one and has already gone down on it. The details are unclear because he was using it for a business and probably doesn't want to get the community riled up but word is he was full sending it. Nevertheless he is out of business for a bit now. https://www.facebook.com/people/Keegen-Delivers/100094541139961/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted September 8 Share Posted September 8 Yes, no full sends if the battery is anything below about 65%... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMY Posted September 8 Author Share Posted September 8 4 hours ago, Cerbera said: The voltage coming out of your charger is set by a potentiometer inside the unit, and there have been a fair few reports that Begode don't always get that bang on, so it might be outputting a bit less. If that is the case it's not a massive problem, or unsafe to ride, and you are merely losing a few miles at the very top of your range, which shouldn't be an issue considering the relatively vast range of that wheel. Also you may need to factor in the 'voltage leaking' that happens with the latest charge board Begode was putting in these, in which it charges to the max, but then slowly leaks voltage over the following hours, so if you test it in EUCW hours after charging has stopped the voltage may well be lower and require a top-up. Incidentally, Begode have never, to my knowledge at least, explained why their latest charge boards do that, but again, it's a fairly minor and easily circumnavigated problem. If you have a multimeter you can test the output of the charger to see what it is dispensing, and there are youtube videos that show you what to tweak inside the charger if you really want to get it exactly correct, but be VERY careful doing that as it needs to be on and active while you do it, and there are some 'big volts' going about inside it ! You probably want a non-metal tool for that. After a year of riding my master only gets to 133.4 max these days, but a small drop-off is to be expected after that sort of time, and again, isn't really an issue unless the disparity between 134.4 and what you get is more than a couple of volts, which might suggest some pack imbalance, which you can address by charging / balancing packs individually, though I have never done this myself, so not the best person to advise... Thank you for the explanation! In the meanwhile, I've tried it in the parking lot to go between two floor. When I went downward, according to the EUC world app, the wheel charged up to 132.6V, so probably the charger was the problem here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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