Ishvalan Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Hi, I have went down 4 steps of stairs but I Think I might overleaned it a little bit and the wheel just went down. The crash was so "smooth" that I didn't even fall but when I went to turn it on it just didn't want to only after a few minutes it would beep when trying to turn it on but unfourtunately it didn't actually turned on. Any thoughts on what might be the problem here? Could it be just a fuse? If so what fuse is it? Just a 30A fuse? Here is a video of it(here the leds didn't blink red): https://streamable.com/qbrv37 Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 It's probably not a fuse or it wouldn't respond at all, but something isn't right between the battery and the control board. Or the control board is broken. I'd start by opening it up and using a multimeter to check each battery's output voltage. That'll determine if the battery packs are happy or not. If the batteries are both the same voltage (and somewhat above 75ish volts) then I would be looking at the control board to see if anything is loose or broken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightWave Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 Agree with @Tawpie you will need to open it up and check all connections to make sure they're in securely. Try and take a video and post an update later I'm curious what happened Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 10 hours ago, Tawpie said: It's probably not a fuse or it wouldn't respond at all, but something isn't right between the battery and the control board. Or the control board is broken. I'd start by opening it up and using a multimeter to check each battery's output voltage. That'll determine if the battery packs are happy or not. If the batteries are both the same voltage (and somewhat above 75ish volts) then I would be looking at the control board to see if anything is loose or broken. Any video/guide on how to check each batteries output voltage? Would I need to rip the glue from it and the blue wrapping? Gotta say that I have never done that but I'm not shy doing it since I mostly repair my stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 It's much much easier than that (except for 1 detail). I am running out the door but will try to get you some instructions... meantime, glance around the internet to see how to disassemble the 16x, it's really quite simple. You need a 5 mm T-handle allen wrench (good quality) and a (quality) #2 philips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 35 minutes ago, Tawpie said: It's much much easier than that (except for 1 detail). I am running out the door but will try to get you some instructions... meantime, glance around the internet to see how to disassemble the 16x, it's really quite simple. You need a 5 mm T-handle allen wrench (good quality) and a (quality) #2 philips. Disassembly isn't a problem fortunately I have disassembled it probably for the 5th time.. Currently stuck just because I need to get an extractor for this one rounded screw that is holding one panel. Thanks for the help will wait for your instructions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted May 15, 2022 Share Posted May 15, 2022 (edited)  This is the left side with the shell removed... the right side is the same except there's no Motor wire. All you need to do is: * clip the zip ties that bundle the cables together, no need to clip the one that holds the motor connector together (it runs lengthwise) * gently poke around and locate the white 5-wire connector with colored wires and silicon goop—this is your hall sensor connector and you want to avoid yanking on it or its wires. It doesn't need to be undone, but you kind of want to know where it is because the battery connector is pretty tight and your hands can fly a bit when you finally get it undone... you don't want to yank on your hall sensor wires by accident. * there's a red floppy wire with a red connector, undo this first so you don't jerk it when you get the battery connector undone * holding the yellow connector body (not the wires), pull/wiggle/work the battery connector loose * taking care not to touch the leads of your multimeter together, measure the voltage on the two big contacts of the battery connector * reconnect the battery connector and the floppy red wire, re-do the zip ties that bundle everything together. * repeat on the other side Edited May 15, 2022 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 15, 2022 Author Share Posted May 15, 2022 14 minutes ago, Tawpie said:  This is the left side with the shell removed... the right side is the same except there's no Motor wire. All you need to do is: * clip the zip ties that bundle the cables together, no need to clip the one that holds the motor connector together (it runs lengthwise) * gently poke around and locate the white 5-wire connector with colored wires and silicon goop—this is your hall sensor connector and you want to avoid yanking on it or its wires. It doesn't need to be undone, but you kind of want to know where it is because the battery connector is pretty tight and your hands can fly a bit when you finally get it undone... you don't want to yank on your hall sensor wires by accident. * there's a red floppy wire with a red connector, undo this first so you don't jerk it when you get the battery connector undone * holding the yellow connector body (not the wires), pull/wiggle/work the battery connector loose * taking care not to touch the leads of your multimeter together, measure the voltage on the two big contacts of the battery connector * reconnect the battery connector and the floppy red wire, re-do the zip ties that bundle everything together. * repeat on the other side The contacts you are talking about are those 3 metal rods inside of the battery connector right? And just read what comes from the cable coming from the battery right? Still need to wait a few days to get the bolt extractor and borrow a multimeter unfourtunately... Thanks for the instructions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) yes... the big fat ones, not the little one in the center (although I don't remember if it had a third wire in there). Basically you're measuring the voltage between the big red and big black wires. And yes, just the side that's attached to the battery... the lower side. You should read pretty close to what the wheel (was) reporting for voltage (±0.5V) and the two batteries should be within about 0.1 or 0.2V from each other. Be sure to set the multimeter to read VOLTS, and the range to 200VDC. Verify how to setup the multimeter to measure DC volts when you borrow it—if you don't have the leads plugged into the multimeter correctly there's a chance you'll get a big spark and a fuse in the multimeter will (hopefully) blow. Edited May 16, 2022 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 8 minutes ago, Tawpie said: yes... the big fat ones, not the little one in the center (although I don't remember if it had a third wire in there). Basically you're measuring the voltage between the big red and big black wires. And yes, just the side that's attached to the battery... the lower side. You should read pretty close to what the wheel (was) reporting for voltage (±0.5V) and the two batteries should be within about 0.1 or 0.2V from each other. Be sure to set the multimeter to read VOLTS, and the range to 200VDC. Verify how to setup the multimeter to measure DC volts when you borrow it—if you don't have the leads plugged into the multimeter correctly there's a chance you'll get a big spark and a fuse in the multimeter will (hopefully) blow. Thanks, will report in 3 days most likely 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Looking closely at my pictures, there is a third wire in the connector—it's blue. You want to measure between the red and black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Got a little bit confused now, so I'm sorry for my paint skills but the way you are telling me to do it is it left or right? It's also missing the hall sensor cable but I guess this will work for bothhttps://imgur.com/a/G7y2Es3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 no problem... you're wanting to do what you show in the lower left picture! Of course, as @Brendan "nog3" Halliday suggested you will hopefully find your batteries to be just fine and that one or both fuses on the control board are blown! Fuses are much less expensive than batteries. When you check the fuses you'll have both sides off anyway and before you change a fuse you will want to disconnect both batteries... so why not check them out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duanew Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 My guess is that it is the fuse. I think I remember reading that the 16x can blow easily if you try to bump and ride up a curb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightWave Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 The fact EUC's are designed to use this type of fuse should scare us? I mean fuses like this are not made to last so basically they can blow anytime and cut the wheel off. With no fail safe system and many people not even aware of this I mean I would suggest no one tempts fate and pushes any wheel too hard. I would even say we should just change the fuses every few months or so to be safe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duanew Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 The fuses generally do not blow at high speed. There is just not enough current used while going fast. They generally blow if the current spikes if something gets caught in the wheel or too big an obstacle is tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 Thank you all and @Tawpie for all the instructions the problem was clearly the fuses as one of them was burned and the other one broken. Didn't actually check the voltage as I was a bit scared when I started thinking that I don't know which one is the negative and whatnot to measure it Just replaced them with 30 amp new mini blade fuses, that actually came in the box. I ordered some new ones but they look exactly the same so I thought there was no benefit in it as long as I don't go down stairs... Â https://imgur.com/a/RM7DSx8 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightWave Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 3 minutes ago, Ishvalan said: I ordered some new ones but they look exactly the same so I thought there was no benefit in it as long as I don't go down stairs... Wait for the S22 before going down stairs again or get any wheel with suspension 16X an amazing wheel and will last a long time without issues if you baby it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ishvalan Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 4 hours ago, ElectronxCycles said: Wait for the S22 before going down stairs again or get any wheel with suspension 16X an amazing wheel and will last a long time without issues if you baby it I babied it until I ordered a s20/2 which got me into stairs and that was the root problem Still don't know if I should go downstairs with the s20 but currently the wheel is a unicorn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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