How to find and fix the InMotion V10 hall sensors?

[LightWave]

Update: I was looking in the alternative ebike forums to expand my search and think they're located in the motor but not 100%. Looking for the part number and where to buy the hall sensors now.

The v10 wont turn on, it's flashing red and have an error message in the app with the hall sensors. Before it shut down the motor was slipping and grinding on hills. Before all this happened it was randomly shaking and then I took the motor apart to clear a clicking sound

Past video I uploaded where you can hear the motor grinding before it died. Sorry I was upset at the moment and the video is not very professional and have now set the video to "private": https://youtu.be/zptMbciE9JI

Edited May 7, 2022 by ElectronxCycles

[LightWave]

Does anyone knows the part number and where to buy the Hall sensors?

Edited May 7, 2022 by ElectronxCycles

[goatman]

grin technologies, you live pretty close to them

https://ebikes.ca/hallsensor.html

the hall sensors, once the side covers are off, you can follow the little hall wires to the sensors

heres a thread about hall sensor confusion

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=105444

Edited May 8, 2022 by goatman

[mrelwood]

Yes, hall sensors are inside the motor. There are three of them. Following the thin cables indeed gets you there.

I don’t remember reading about anyone replacing the hall sensors on a V10, so I don’t think you will find the model numbers until you remove them and check for yourself.

 But a hall sensor is just an on/off switch that is switched by the magnetic field polarity, so there aren’t too many different models available. I can try find the thread where I describe replacing them on an MSX 84V, and the model numbers of both the existing, and the replacement sensors I bought at the local electronics shop.

 Although, I’m afraid there’s a good chance that the issues is actually in the sensor cabling or the connectors. Check if the motor cable has been pinched, and that the connectors still operate as expected, and that no pins are bent etc.

 You might actually be able to measure the hall sensors before you disassemble the motor by removing only the main motor cables, turning on the wheel, and measuring the voltage at the colored hall sensors wires while you slowly rotate the tire. If the voltage reading switches between 0V and roughly 5V on each of the three connectors (in relation to the black wire), the issue is probably not in the actual sensors.

[LightWave]

1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

You might actually be able to measure the hall sensors before you disassemble the motor by removing only the main motor cables, turning on the wheel, and measuring the voltage at the colored hall sensors wires while you slowly rotate the tire. If the voltage reading switches between 0V and roughly 5V on each of the three connectors (in relation to the black wire), the issue is probably not in the actual sensors.

Thank you so much I will try that, I just pickup a nice multimeter today, can't believe that I waited this long to get one

[LightWave]

3 hours ago, goatman said:

grin technologies, you live pretty close to them

https://ebikes.ca/hallsensor.html

This is awesome I will call them sometime this week! Thank you!!!

[evil696]

Hi i'm sorry but i cannot agree with mrelwood, and sorry for my english.

First don't test halls with motherboard connected to battery pack, it's not nessesary risk. Better option is remove motor from the shell and connect 5V or less power supply to connector (black - negative, red - positive).

Second, i know that is not logical but measure color cables not to black but to red wire.

"so there aren’t too many different models available" there are many models but most important thing is to get bipolar hall sensor on good voltage.

Hall sensors have description H149 it's propably OCH149 but you can use ss49e my friend use ss41.

Check axle and cables.

I have removed V10 motor if you want i can show you how to measure hall sensors. Just contact me on private.

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, evil696 said:

I have removed V10 motor if you want i can show you how to measure hall sensors. Just contact me on private.

If you have better way for measuring the sensors, I think it would be good to have it out in the public instead of only my crude method.

And I’m actually being sincere and earnest here, not meaning to sound passive-aggressive.

[evil696]

I will try to make tutorial with photos how to do it in V10 and i will also give some important informations from my previous repairs.

[LightWave]

20 hours ago, evil696 said:

Hall sensors have description H149 it's propably OCH149 but you can use ss49e my friend use ss41.

This is very helpful thank you!

[LightWave]

20 hours ago, evil696 said:

First don't test halls with motherboard connected to battery pack, it's not nessesary risk. Better option is remove motor from the shell and connect 5V or less power supply to connector (black - negative, red - positive).

Should be ok to check them with a multimeter?

[mrelwood]

5 hours ago, ElectronxCycles said:

Should be ok to check them with a multimeter?

The hall sensors must get 5 VDC in before they’ll do anything, so you need to either use an external power source, or measure them with possibly more risk potential while the wheel is powered on.

[LightWave]

On 5/8/2022 at 4:14 AM, evil696 said:

Hall sensors have description H149 it's propably OCH149 but you can use ss49e my friend use ss41.

I think it's ss41, maybe safe to just replace all 3?

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, ElectronxCycles said:

I think it's ss41, maybe safe to just replace all 3?

Yes, if you’ll replace any, replace all three. I hope your soldering skills are up to par, a bad solder losing connectivity in any of the hall sensors connections means an instant faceplant.

[LightWave]

On 5/8/2022 at 4:14 AM, evil696 said:

Hall sensors have description H149 it's propably OCH149 but you can use ss49e

So OCH149 will work on the v!0 instead of the ss41?

[LightWave]

2 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Yes, if you’ll replace any, replace all three. I hope your soldering skills are up to par, a bad solder losing connectivity in any of the hall sensors connections means an instant faceplant.

That's true I will I do a lot of practising before hand to make sure I level up

[LightWave]

I found this ultra easy to follow!
 

 

[goatman]

that video said lead free solder

i like using 60/40 solder w/lead in it

something like this

https://www.amazon.ca/Hebraeos-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-22lbs/dp/B0987TY8CR/ref=sr_1_44?keywords=60%2F40+solder&qid=1652145725&sr=8-44

[mrelwood]

The basic tips on that video are good, but you are not doing through-hole soldering with the hall sensors. They are just wire soldered directly onto the leg of the sensor.

 Take a good closeup photo of the current system before doing anything to it.

Edited May 10, 2022 by mrelwood

[LightWave]

2 hours ago, goatman said:

i like using 60/40 solder w/lead in it

The one I got is lead free lol is that bad? This is the one I got over the weekend but I can totally get another brand later this week if this is not that great, I mean I did use it today. It seemed to work well for a control board, the fuse welded feels solid and works perfectly: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/aim-electrisol-lead-free-rosin-core-solder-0586000p.html#plp

[LightWave]

39 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The basic tips on that video are good, but you are not doing through-hole soldering with the hall sensors. They are just wire soldered directly onto the leg of the sensor.

If the solder looks like the shape of a "volcano" feels solid, the machine turns on and works on a test drive it should be ok?

[mrelwood]

2 hours ago, ElectronxCycles said:

If the solder looks like the shape of a "volcano" feels solid, the machine turns on and works on a test drive it should be ok?

… and isn’t close to creating a short. Yes, that’s the basic idea… for board solderings. But I don’t know if any of the wheels have a tiny board to solder the sensors to. It’s just a wire and the sensor. You need to get enough surface area for the soldering to be solid, and it can’t touch the motor cover. Wrap the wire around the sensor’s leg if you need, to make a better connection. But keep the overall profile as thin as you can, the motor cover comes pretty close when you put it all back together.

And avoid cold joints like plague, and make sure there’s always enough flux pouring in. Heating up the joint for a few seconds too long will vaporize the flux, and the solder no longer runs to the small crevices to make a solid connection. Luckily you can see if the flux has gone from the lack of shine in the joint. If it no longer shines, add flux or new solder (that has flux in it).

[techyiam]

 

Lee's Electronics is a popular store to pick up electronics related items locally.

I would 2nd @goatman choice of solder.

For beginners,  it is really easy to get a false sense of a good soldering joint.

 

[LightWave]

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

And avoid cold joints like plague, and make sure there’s always enough flux pouring in. Heating up the joint for a few seconds too long will vaporize the flux, and the solder no longer runs to the small crevices to make a solid connection. Luckily you can see if the flux has gone from the lack of shine in the joint. If it no longer shines, add flux or new solder (that has flux in it).

This is really good to know thank you!

[LightWave]

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

Lee's Electronics is a popular store to pick up electronics related items locally.

I finally went Lee's today it was amazing like radio shack when I was kid but way better! They didn't have the ss41 though but I got all kinds of other cool stuff like a solder sucker, flux etc I will be going back again they even have 3D printing stuff! I really want to get into 3D printing because I know how to model with 3D software and have so many ideas to test out