McM5 V2 inner tube change

[random_variable]

 

I have my heart set on a McM5 V2, but the prospect of repairing the tire scares me away. There is one how to disassemble video from 2019 that shows a fiendishly complex process. It involves removing the control board  the batteries and everything with intricate operations. I could not do it if my life depended on it.

There is a thread from last year about this topic, where one owner has had a flat tire and tried to replace the inner tube. Two owners in that threat echoed my exact sentiment. One even said that they decided to sell the wheel after trying and failing to fix it.

So, my question to the owners of this mischievous wheel is that: (1) does the new V2 have any improvements on the ease of disassembly; (2) do you have to disassemble everything as in the video to get to the tire, or are there any shortcuts, for example can you get away with leaving the board in place?

 

 

[OldFartRides]

I doubt there’s an easy way. There’s no machine made by man that is easy to work on unless it has less than three moving parts on it. Don’t worry about it. Buy the wheel you want. Have fun with it. Deal with the problems when they happen. It’s worse thinking about it than actually doing it. We learn lessons breaking shit when we’re trying to fix them. Builds character.

Best,

[Tawpie]

48 minutes ago, random_variable said:

the prospect of repairing the tire scares me away.

$20 of RideOn or Armordillos or Slime will reduce the probability of a flat "a ton". And there's plenty of folks around here that would help if you do ever need to fix the thing. We even have a local PEV shop that will service your wheel for you if you prefer.

Go for it, wheeling is great fun and spring is nearly here. We even have a local group for beginners/intermediates to get together and build skills on slow mellow group rides. Just start saving your money for wheels two and three. Can't be helped, it's a disease.

[Roadpower]

While having to change a tire or fix a flat on a EUC does suck I would not let that deter you from getting a wheel and learning to ride it. I have to say as someone who didn't start riding until 57 that a EUC is one of the best things I've done in decades. It's fun, it's super useful (I literally use mine for commuting AND work) and it makes you learn to use your body in ways that you haven't dreamed of since you were a kid.

On another note I'm always scanning the pavement because I really don't want to deal with a flat.

[random_variable]

1 hour ago, OldFartRides said:

I doubt there’s an easy way. There’s no machine made by man that is easy to work on unless it has less than three moving parts on it. Don’t worry about it. Buy the wheel you want. Have fun with it. Deal with the problems when they happen. It’s worse thinking about it than actually doing it. We learn lessons breaking shit when we’re trying to fix them. Builds character.

Best,

I like your positive attitude   But I do like to be prepared, if I am going to use the wheel I much as I expect, then tire repair is inevitable. There are good wheels like the KS 16s  and the Begode Tesla that I am also considering that are really easy to repair when it mes to it. 

[random_variable]

4 minutes ago, Roadpower said:

While having to change a tire or fix a flat on a EUC does suck I would not let that deter you from getting a wheel and learning to ride it. I have to say as someone who didn't start riding until 57 that a EUC is one of the best things I've done in decades. It's fun, it's super useful (I literally use mine for commuting AND work) and it makes you learn to use your body in ways that you haven't dreamed of since you were a kid.

On another note I'm always scanning the pavement because I really don't want to deal with a flat.

Great to hear you have a wonderful experience with Eucs. At 52 I am a little quicker than you in getting, hopefully soon, to this hobby.

As far as the tire change goes some good wheels are really easy to change tire, like the KS16s and the Tesla.

[random_variable]

1 hour ago, Tawpie said:

$20 of RideOn or Armordillos or Slime will reduce the probability of a flat "a ton". And there's plenty of folks around here that would help if you do ever need to fix the thing. We even have a local PEV shop that will service your wheel for you if you prefer.

Go for it, wheeling is great fun and spring is nearly here. We even have a local group for beginners/intermediates to get together and build skills on slow mellow group rides. Just start saving your money for wheels two and three. Can't be helped, it's a disease.

Tawpie, you are in Seattle !!!

Could you give me a name or two of the shops that can repair an McM5 in Seattle. I would like to call and ask them. Although from the video I figure that anyone other than Begode assembly workers, who do this thousands of times, would have a really hard time with it.

Yes, I will buy a wheel in a few days, have been eyeing one for a year now, almost there. Does the Seattle ewheeling community have a slack channel, or a mailing list, or maybe a web site to communicate and post events? I would love to participate.

 

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, random_variable said:

As far as the tire change goes some good wheels are really easy to change tire, like the KS16s and the Tesla.

I have removed the wheel of a Begode T3. And I have watched a couple of MCM5 V2 disassembly videos. Note that for the latter, that the disassembly video show way more things removed than what is necessary. 

Once the side covers are off, on the MCM5, you get get full access to the hanger bolts and motor wires and hall sensor wires. Easy peasy.  Not so on the T3. It-monkey, a person with considerable experience complain about how hard it was to take out the controller board for access. To get to the hanger bolts on the T3, you must remove the battery packs first.

I am not saying it is difficult to remove the wheel on the T3, but it should be easier on the MCM5 V2.

2 hours ago, random_variable said:

Could you give me a name or two of the shops that can repair an McM5 in Seattle. I would like to call and ask them. Although from the video I figure that anyone other than Begode assembly workers, who do this thousands of times, would have a really hard time with it.

I highly doubt it. Wheel assembly removal looks down right straight forward on the MCM5 V2.

First of all, there are not many videos on disassembly or tire change on the T3 or MCM5 v2. Can you tell me which videos you watch and where in the video that you felt a particular step was difficult to do.

[random_variable]

56 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I am not saying it is difficult to remove the wheel on the T3, but it should be easier on the MCM5 V2.

First of all, there are not many videos on disassembly or tire change on the T3 or MCM5 v2. Can you tell me which videos you watch and where in the video that you felt a particular step was difficult to do.

Our conclusions are completely opposite, maybe one of us is mixing the wheel references.

McM5

On ewheels' McM5 product page one of the FAQs, quoted below, comments on this.

Quote

1. How difficult is to perform maintenance work, such as changing the inner-tube on the MCM5?
   It’s more of an ordeal than on other Gotway Wheels, where both side panels need to be removed, screws unfastened from the pedal support posts & the heat-shrink wrapping around the motor connectors pealed away, in addition to separating the two shell halves.  A typical inner-tube change job will likely take between 1 to 2 hours.

Youtube video #1 below shows the complex disassembly process. It takes out the control board, the battery, and everything really.

Tesla T3

On ewheels' product page there is a link to the you tube video #2 below (although by looking at the posting date, it could be for the older T2), The video shows a really clear and easy process. I could easily do it myself.

 

Video #1 McM5 dismantle

Video #2 - Tesla tire change

 

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, random_variable said:

Our conclusions are completely opposite, maybe one of us is mixing the wheel references.

Yup. Remember, l have actually pull out the wheel of my T3 to repair the rusted bearings. The Tesla in the video that you have linked is not a T3. Also, that is an oversimplified cgi version. The video below shows what you actually have to deal with on a T3.

 

You haven't developed a trained eye yet to be able to evaluate what needs to be removed or not, in order to remove a wheel.

But in time, you will.

Just curious, what is your background when it comes to wrenching? 

[Tawpie]

9 hours ago, random_variable said:

Could you give me a name or two of the shops that can repair an McM5 in Seattle.

Sent you a DM with full details, but the local shop is called The Float Factory. Also sent the beginners TG info... there's a local FB group as well but I don't zuck so can't help with that (I think it's called Seattle E riders or something like that, should come up in a search)

Oh. We have a fairly large family of riders so used equipment is frequently (though not always) available. I would recommend the 16X as super reliable and easy to repair. But I'm biased so take that into consideration.

Looking forward to riding with you some day!

Edited April 1, 2022 by Tawpie

[alcatraz]

Repairing flats is annoying as hell. It's never fast. It gets easier after you've done it once but still it's never fast.

The trick, I think, is to have a backup wheel. This MCM5 is going to be a lot of fun but I believe that in 1-2 years it's your backup.

I love my Tesla, and even after I got my MSX I thought that it's not better than the tesla. Few months later and I put 90% of my mileage on the larger MSX. Comfort is king. For a single wheel 16x3.0in tires RULE.

Also you don't puncture as much as you think. Euc tires are not bicycle tires. Even the softest/lightest euc tires like the C1488 puncture very rarely. I get like 4000km between punctures and that's almost the entire lifespan of the tire. I'm 70kg. 

Correction: You might puncture often until you've learned about the right tire pressure, and nailed down the riding style. Jumping around on a small tire and not puncturing, while maintaining some comfort? Forget about it. I value comfort so much that I've stopped jumping completely. I'm past that phase. 5 seconds of fun isn't worth the 2 hours of fixing a flat. Sure you could pump the tire up hard, but you'd lose all the comfort and handling = shit.

Edited April 2, 2022 by alcatraz

[techyiam]

54 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

Repairing flats is annoying as hell. It's never fast. It gets easier after you've done it once but still it's never fast.

The trick, I think, is to have a backup wheel. This MCM5 is going to be a lot of fun but I believe that in 1-2 years it's your backup.

I love my Tesla, and even after I got my MSX I thought that it's not better than the tesla. Few months later and I put 90% of my mileage on the larger MSX. Comfort is king. For a single wheel 16x3.0in tires RULE.

Also you don't puncture as much as you think. Euc tires are not bicycle tires. Even the softest/lightest euc tires like the C1488 puncture very rarely. I get like 4000km between punctures and that's almost the entire lifespan of the tire. I'm 70kg. 

Correction: You might puncture often until you've learned about the right tire pressure, and nailed down the riding style. Jumping around on a small tire and not puncturing, while maintaining some comfort? Forget about it. I value comfort so much that I've stopped jumping completely. I'm past that phase. 5 seconds of fun isn't worth the 2 hours of fixing a flat. Sure you could pump the tire up hard, but you'd lose all the comfort and handling = shit.

For flats, are you against using liquid-tire-repair sealant like Slime?

Regarding comfort, with tire pressures set at around 28 psi, roughly, how much more comfortable is the 18xl over the T3 on a somewhat bump road going at around 40 kph? Thanks.

Edited April 2, 2022 by techyiam

[random_variable]

14 hours ago, techyiam said:

Yup. Remember, l have actually pull out the wheel of my T3 to repair the rusted bearings. The Tesla in the video that you have linked

You haven't developed a trained eye yet to be able to evaluate what needs to be removed or not, in order to remove a wheel.

But in time, you will.

Just curious, what is your background when it comes to wrenching? 

Techyiam, you convinced me. I watched the McM5 dismantle video couple of time and I believe I can do it. Dont have much experience with wrenching, closest thing I do is assemble a new PC once every couple years.

Thanks for the guidance.

[random_variable]

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

Repairing flats is annoying as hell. It's never fast. It gets easier after you've done it once but still it's never fast.

The trick, I think, is to have a backup wheel. This MCM5 is going to be a lot of fun but I believe that in 1-2 years it's your backup.

 

Yeah, looks like quite a tedious process, unless you do it once every week, difficult to get used to it.

I fully expect that to happen.

[random_variable]

I would like to thank all contributors in this thread. Now I feel more comfortable tackling this challenge, so I decided to pull the trigger on an McM5. Yay !!!

[techyiam]

2 minutes ago, random_variable said:

Techyiam, you convinced me. I watched the McM5 dismantle video couple of time and I believe I can do it. Dont have much experience with wrenching, closest thing I do is assemble a new PC once every couple years.

Thanks for the guidance.

Remember, don't split the case. Also, most videos don't show how to remove plastic pieces with tabs. They can break easily. There will a learning curve initially. Also, in the teardown videos, look at the wheel assembly after it has been taken out. This will guide you as to what you need to remove. There will be a wiring harness comprising of three phase wires, and some tiny wires for the hall sensor connector. And lastly, the hangers have 6 bolt holes per side. You need to focus on how to get to those connectors and bolts. To pull the wheel out from under the shell is another learning curve. But once you have done it once, it will become straight forward from that point onwards.

[random_variable]

6 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Remember, don't split the case. Also, most videos don't show how to remove plastic pieces with tabs. They can break easily. There will a learning curve initially. Also, in the teardown videos, look at the wheel assembly after it has been taken out. This will guide you as to what you need to remove. There will be a wiring harness comprising of three phase wires, and some tiny wires for the hall sensor connector. And lastly, the hangers have 6 bolt holes per side. You need to focus on how to get to those connectors and bolts. To pull the wheel out from under the shell is another learning curve. But once you have done it once, it will become straight forward from that point onwards.

Thank you - all noted.

 

[alcatraz]

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

For flats, are you against using liquid-tire-repair sealant like Slime?

Regarding comfort, with tire pressures set at around 28 psi, roughly, how much more comfortable is the 18xl over the T3 on a somewhat bump road going at around 40 kph? Thanks.

Not against sealant.( Never tried it. )

I can't really say what pressure I'm using. The gauge on my pump is broken. I do think that it's very very low. 

Like all my wheels start to bottom out just a couple of weeks after I pumped them up to my preferred pressure. And it's not a slow leak or anything. 

I've been unable to reduce the pressure on any other tire than the C1488 (I haven't tested many. Chaoyang 5012, Kenda xxx). The other tires just feel like crap at low pressure, long before they bottom out. (In my mind this is lost comfort. I think they're tires for heavy riders that don't feel the thicker sidewalls to mess up the handling.)

Edited April 2, 2022 by alcatraz

[techyiam]

2 hours ago, alcatraz said:

I can't really say what pressure I'm using. The gauge on my pump is broken. I do think that it's very very low. 

In China, aren't tire guages super cheap? I guess you don't feel you need them?

2 hours ago, alcatraz said:

I've been unable to reduce the pressure on any other tire than the C1488 (I haven't tested many. Chaoyang 5012, Kenda xxx). The other tires just feel like crap at low pressure, long before they bottom out. (In my mind this is lost comfort. I think they're tires for heavy riders that don't feel the thicker sidewalls to mess up the handling.)

Interesting. I don't go too low because I worry about denting the rim. And I am just talking about going over regular bumps on the road.

[alcatraz]

1 hour ago, techyiam said:

In China, aren't tire guages super cheap? I guess you don't feel you need them?

Interesting. I don't go too low because I worry about denting the rim. And I am just talking about going over regular bumps on the road.

Yeah they're cheap but I don't really care what the pressure actually is, only repeatability. The values I have in my head for all my bikes/wheels would make you laugh. Completely unreasonable but it works with that one misreading pump. 

Same here. I go as low as I can without denting the rim for normal road riding. I couldn't do that with the Chaoyang H5012 because the wheel wouldn't turn predictable. I was riding on the sidewalls basically. Swapped to C1488 and my riding weight could make full use of the 3in wide tire. I went from thinking about selling the new MSX to rarely riding the tesla. It's a Tesla V1 with a 16x2.5in tire.

Edited April 2, 2022 by alcatraz

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

It's a Tesla V1 with a 16x2.5in tire.

You mean a 16x2.5" tire can fit on your Tesla without mod? If yes, which tire is it, if you don'tmind sharing?

 

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

Swapped to C1488 and my riding weight could make full use of the 3in wide tire. I went from thinking about selling the new MSX to rarely riding the tesla.

Wow, that made that big a difference. 

[alcatraz]

16 minutes ago, techyiam said:

You mean a 16x2.5" tire can fit on your Tesla without mod? If yes, which tire is it, if you don'tmind sharing?

 

Wow, that made that big a difference. 

CST C1488. It's a slightly narrower (and thinner) tire than usual. I like it. You can fit the 2.5in on a Tesla (v1) without mod, but it's a tricky install and there's a wear in period. You need to keep the pressure low for a few km. Then you can bring it up. I've done 4000km and 3900+ of those have been silent.

There's a thread about it in this forum.