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Ks18xl no beeps, no life


Dilema007

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Hey I hope someone can help, I seem to have a problem with my wheel, I first had a problem where the wheel would not turn on, no crashed or bangs just up one day and not much life, I press the button and no beeps, the motherboard activates with blue and red lights but not much else, also I need to keep the button depressed in order to get any life out of it and all I get is the rear light on, the Bluetooth for music connects but I have to keep my finger on the button, ok so yes I replaced the motherboard with a upgraded version. Plugged everything properly together again, and the whole motherboard exploded into flames, the rest of the wheel was not damaged so I cleaned everything, and to check out back the original motherboard, which again worked the same as the original problem, I disassemble the wheel again removed the plates to get into the magnet area, I noticed that one of the three mini hall sensors was blown, so I had replaced that, I now have a new motherboard but am extremely reluctant to plug it in as I can't find any other issues, but don't want it to blow again, so any help would be great

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49 minutes ago, Dilema007 said:

noticed that one of the three mini hall sensors was blown, so I had replaced that, I now have a new motherboard but am extremely reluctant to plug it in as I can't find any other issues, but don't want it to blow again, so any help would be great

Seems fine as solution, although motherboard bursting into flames by bad hall sensor signals is not really comforting :(

If you or one of your friends have a labarotory voltage supply providing min 66V (or up to 84V) with some settanle current limiting to ~0.5A (or even less) you could try if everything starts...

Or you take about 4 12V (halogen) (car) light bulbs in series. With about 6W each - so with less than 0.5A they have about "no" resistance but limit the current once shining. Maybe you'll have to try a bit with the wattage..

 

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I'd try and stick a multimeter in those motor wires and spin the wheel. Maybe it's possible to compare the numbers between those three probe possibilities. Spin the wheel by hand a bit. If they're all the same then go ahead? 

Also, is there any point to powering on the control board without the motor wires connected first?

Another thing that struck me as a possibility is the cable color coding coming from the motor. Maybe that motor has a different coding than the other motors. Do you remember how it was connected to the original functioning control board? Are the colors switched around on the new board?

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The multimeter approach to the points seem a very good idea, but what am I looking for? They where brand new out the packet, and I did replace it twice thinking maybe there was an issue with it, the boards are not that modified to swap the colour cables around, they are the same, except for the extra two red leads on a new board, my main concern is that the first new board exploded and after getting a new one, and fixed all I could see to fix, I still get a shudder effect when connected to the wheel, and no free rolling, this makes me think there is still an issue and that's holding me back from plugging in and switching on the brand new board I have, untill I'm positive it won't explode again on me, thanks for any help received

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Ps... I have the original board in the wheel right now, and although it switched on without blowing up, I have to keep my finger depressed in order for it to stay on connects to audio Bluetooth only, no euc app will recognise the wheel, when i release my finger it switches off, I'm not sure how many lights should be on in the board but I only have two red lights and sound be blue light, oh and the back red light goes on but not the front white light 🤷🏾‍♂️

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(video) May help maybe.

Heck when i will have a problem, i will turn it in for repairs at shop.. As i have no clue what i would be doing.

Both batteries had somewhat "=" voltage? Only thing i know when connecting batteries, they need to be same voltage or it can "blow up"..

Other than that. I'm clueless.

If you need to hold the button. That's right there means something is very wrong.. Some kind "security" system won't allow the wheel stay powered.

Have you tried powering the wheel up having connected only 1 battery pack? Connect one and then other pack. (Try both BUT no longer for 1 min..) If possible same amount of time, so voltage don't change in one of the packs..

 

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Hey funky, thank you for you response my friend, I will check out that method and will report back how it went, I believe that the battery is in perfect order, as I constantly check the voltage of each battery, and yes I think too it could be a safety feature, but why would it blow up the motherboard? Especially when I replace it with the original and everything (mostly) lights up? I have no idea myself, thanks again

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