Funky Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 (edited) Hello, i got a quick question. It's about fan current.. I found that original fan uses ~0.12Amps.. (Check image for fan info) Here's the question: Is it safe to connect fan that is also 5v, but current let's say is ~0.24 or ~0.36, ~more amps? Wanted to ask if someone knows, as i don't know anything about these "electronic" stuff. Thanks. Edited December 3, 2021 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 You should be ok at .24A. But you do want to make sure the replacement fan provides at least the same or more air flow (CFM) and at least the same or higher static pressure (mmH2O). Those two figures let you know it can move at least the same amount of air. Fan speed doesn't matter, it's about "pound feet per minute" when you're talking about forced air convention cooling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted December 3, 2021 Author Share Posted December 3, 2021 I'm just thinking ahead of time "if" something breaks. DIY bigger blower fan. That would be connected to plastic shell, and blow over those three big capacitors, mobo.. What would happen if i install 0.36A fan. Something will burn? Or the fan simply wont power on? More amps - more blow power. (aka: CFM, mmH2O) xD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 40 minutes ago, Funky said: More amps - more blow power. (aka: CFM, mmH2O) xD maybe. and usually. But it's worth checking... a fan with an inefficient design could easily pull more current and push less air while spinning at 10k rpm and making no noise at all. If you pull too much power, what 'should' happen is the power source should either turn off the power completely, or reduce the output voltage. A power source that isn't well designed (happens for example, if the cost target is super duper low) might fail and kill everything that's taking power from it. All three scenarios are bad, but the sneaky one is reducing output voltage (we used to call that 'fold-back current limiting') because devices that think they're going to get xx volts are now not getting quite that much and they are likely to misbehave. Voltage comparators for example. You might not see an out and out failure, but you could easily see degraded operation. And myself, I don't want anything that's keeping my face off the pavement to be operating in a degraded mode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil696 Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 As you know your wheel have 84v battery pack so there need to be dc-dc converter to pull down voltage to 5V. Every dc-dc converter have max current that he can carries and you can check it in datasheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted December 21, 2021 Author Share Posted December 21, 2021 3 hours ago, evil696 said: As you know your wheel have 84v battery pack so there need to be dc-dc converter to pull down voltage to 5V. Every dc-dc converter have max current that he can carries and you can check it in datasheet. Sadly can't seem to find any "datasheet" or any information of that sort online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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