Looking for 3d print files for Power/jump pads

[Nivel]

Hi guys, recently my boss bought 3d printer for the office with pretty decent specs and can print at dimensions 30х30х40.

He told me that I could use it as I please, so I plan to print myself some bumpers for 16X and Monster Pro, however I would also want to print some power pads / jump pads, I couldn't find any print files online, therefore I`m making this request here in the forum in case someone have such files and would like to share.

Edited May 10, 2021 by Nivel
more clarification

[Bone]

You can find some on Thingiverse, like this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4690957

[RockyTop]

Is the printer a direct drive? Most jump pads are printed in TPU. TPU is a soft rubber like material. Printing in TPU is difficult enough with a direct drive. You have to print very slow. Printing bumpers would be a great place to start. 

[Ben Kim]

On 5/10/2021 at 8:22 AM, RockyTop said:

Is the printer a direct drive? Most jump pads are printed in TPU. TPU is a soft rubber like material. Printing in TPU is difficult enough with a direct drive. You have to print very slow. Printing bumpers would be a great place to start. 

I print TPU both 85A and 98A on both of my bowden printers no problem, it’s all about your settings.

[RockyTop]

52 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

I print TPU both 85A and 98A on both of my bowden printers no problem, it’s all about your settings.

How long do you think it would take you to print a set of jump pads? I honestly would like to know. Thanks 

[GoGeorgeGo]

2 hours ago, Ben Kim said:

I print TPU both 85A and 98A on both of my bowden printers no problem, it’s all about your settings.

Same, i get a little stringing but nothing that cant be cleaned up afterwards. Just make sure your cooling is off so you get really good layer adhesion and your printing at the recommended filament speeds

My recommendation is to avoid printing support with tpu though it just comes out better if your designs dont need it 

Edited May 28, 2021 by GoGeorgeGo

[.....]

@RockyTop

Im printing a small protorype set of top pads (similar to my epdm) with .8 nozzle, as fast as my cr10 can handle it, right now. (.6x.3tall) Its gna take about 12-16 hrs for a set in ninjatek tpu(Usa quality baby!). Minimal infill, minimal walls. Cant let nozzle pressure be too high on tpu. Its still not very soft or flexible. Standard jump pads like the t-pads would take me about 20-24 hrs a set and cost well over $30 in quality filament.  I use direct drive extruder and its still finicky. Minimal retract and gotta keep the booth warm/dry. Icould spray a nasty set for prototypes out of pla+ in about 6hrs or 3hrs per side. Unuseable but for testing.

Edited May 28, 2021 by ShanesPlanet

[Ben Kim]

2 hours ago, RockyTop said:

How long do you think it would take you to print a set of jump pads? I honestly would like to know. Thanks 

on a 0.8mm nozzle with 3 walls? maybe 15 hours. 7.5 hours each. 

[Ben Kim]

50 minutes ago, GoGeorgeGo said:

Same, i get a little stringing but nothing that cant be cleaned up afterwards. Just make sure your cooling is off so you get really good layer adhesion and your printing at the recommended filament speeds

My recommendation is to avoid printing support with tpu though it just comes out better if your designs dont need it 

I use a pretty beefy retract on 98A, it arguably prints better than PLA for me with no stringing, albeit not as quickly. I run it at 20mm, sometimes 25mm if it’s a simple model. 

Look up Priline TPU, it’s a pretty hard material but if you want something durable it can’t be beat. 

On Ninjaflex I use tons of detours and make sure it’s printing inside-out to avoid blobs and stringing on the exterior of the model, but you can’t really go faster than 15mm and even then I cringe a little. This is on bowden.

Although I have a 0.8mm nozzle and print with it for crude large objects, i prefer 0.6mm universally for TPU; give up a little speed for a little more detail. 

[Ben Kim]

18 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

@RockyTop

Im printing a small set of top pads (similar to my epdm) with .8 nozzle, as fast as my cr10 can handle it. (.6x.3tall) Its gna take about 15-20 hrs for a set in ninjatek tpu(Usa quality baby!). Minimal infill, minimal walls. Cant let nozzle pressure be too high on tpu. Its still not very soft or flexible. Standard jump pads like the t-pads would take me about 24-30hrs a set and cost well over $30 in quality filament.  I use direct drive extruder and its still finicky. Minimal retract and gotta keep the booth warm/dry. Icould spray a nasty set for prototypes out of pla+ in about 6hrs or 3hrs per side. Unuseable but for testing.

I have a CR-10 max. When you’re pumping out multiple objects, it’s a godsend.  I’ve printed 18 pedal pushers on a single job to give away on a ride lol.  Cura’s print sequencing helps if you’re not 100% confident in your setup and the job isn’t too big. 

[.....]

 

5 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

I have a CR-10 max. When you’re pumping out multiple objects, it’s a godsend.  I’ve printed 18 pedal pushers on a single job to give away on a ride lol.  Cura’s print sequencing helps if you’re not 100% confident in your setup and the job isn’t too big. 

Mines the cr10 v3. I agree, a big build plate does come in habdy for multiples. You want tough, try printing true Ninjaflex. its REALLY soft. My ninjatek cheetah is like most tpu, but that ninjaflex is like butter. I gotta run it 20mm/s direct drive and watch the entire time. Other tpus print around 35mm for me, but stringing is a bitch. What are your retract settings? I get a lot of ooze on my ninja, but im hesitant to pull more than 1.2mm on retract. I've used cura, but I now use simplify3d.

[Ben Kim]

1 hour ago, ShanesPlanet said:

 

Mines the cr10 v3. I agree, a big build plate does come in habdy for multiples. You want tough, try printing true Ninjaflex. its REALLY soft. My ninjatek cheetah is like most tpu, but that ninjaflex is like butter. I gotta run it 20mm/s direct drive and watch the entire time. Other tpus print around 35mm for me, but stringing is a bitch. What are your retract settings? I get a lot of ooze on my ninja, but im hesitant to pull more than 1.2mm on retract. I've used cura, but I now use simplify3d.

For Ninjaflex? 2mm@20mm/s retract, barely anything for bowden, what’s more important is the speed and how detailed the job is, if it’s highly detailed, I drop down to 10mm/s all round on bowden, if it’s something simple like pads, i bump up to 15mm/s and pray. 

I use detouring and inside-out to ensure any blobbing or strings stay away from the walls as much as possible. 

[onewheelkoregro]

Just a quick question. Has anyone tried to 3d print a seat? I have a KS 16x and I am not trying to have to wait for a seat to come from China. I really want to learn how to ride seated but with no seat it really hurts my derriere while I was trying the other day. I checked with my local library and it is just within the dimensions to print out a seat using the official one from Kingsong as a model. But there are no files on how to do this. I am willing to create one if that is what it takes. Just wanting to know if somebody else has attempted this and if I could use the same filament TPU to print the seat as the jump pads

 

[Rawnei]

9 hours ago, onewheelkoregro said:

Just a quick question. Has anyone tried to 3d print a seat? I have a KS 16x and I am not trying to have to wait for a seat to come from China. I really want to learn how to ride seated but with no seat it really hurts my derriere while I was trying the other day. I checked with my local library and it is just within the dimensions to print out a seat using the official one from Kingsong as a model. But there are no files on how to do this. I am willing to create one if that is what it takes. Just wanting to know if somebody else has attempted this and if I could use the same filament TPU to print the seat as the jump pads

 

Sure it's possible if you design something, designing might require a lot of materials for prototyping unless you get it perfect the first time (unlikely), the challenge both with seat and pads is making them hard or soft enough while still supporting you, I wouldn't recommend a project like this unless you have a printer of your own.

Edited May 17, 2023 by Rawnei

[Hellkitten]

Try fabricating on from a yoga block. You can carve the foam easily with an exacto knife, rasp and a sander/sandpaper. I made one for a v13 in about half an hour. If you’re semi handy with tools it fairly easily. I got a yoga block for ten bucks. 

[onewheelkoregro]

9 hours ago, Hellkitten said:

Try fabricating on from a yoga block. You can carve the foam easily with an exacto knife, rasp and a sander/sandpaper. I made one for a v13 in about half an hour. If you’re semi handy with tools it fairly easily. I got a yoga block for ten bucks. 

I will do that because it sounds faster and cheaper