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KS 16X crash and repair help


Johnw

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Hiya folks from up here in Canada.  I had a little accident with my 16X this afternoon.... was going on a dirt path traversing a hill... lost control of my unicycle and it went tumbling down the hill... travelling around 50 meters at a pretty steep pitch.  It was heading for a busy road but luckily it hit a tree which pretty much stopped the momentum.  Here’s some of the grizzly pics...

Damaged 16x

My trolley handle was also rippped  right off...  hopefully i didn’t do too much damage to the lift sensor as well.  Even with all the damage i was able to ride home but am a little concerned of a drop out.  At first inspection it doesn’t seem like it sustained any direct damage but there was a pretty hard crash against the tree (which I’m assuming cracked the corner. 

 

I’m hoping at the very least i will need to get a new side and a new trolley handle.  I’m hoping i didn’t damage the middle shell.

 

a couple questions:

1) is it safe to continue riding this EUC?  Is there any diagnostics i can do to prevent a drop out or the battery pack exploding?  It seems that the EUC is riding fine, i will try to charge it in a day or so based on whatever recommendations i get from you all. 

2) based on what you see, is there any other parts i may need?  Should i just try to source them from an online store or is there a possibility kingsong will help?

if there are any EUC enthusiasts in Calgary that have expertise in repair, please feel free to reach out to me!

Thanks in advance!

John

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I just took some big chunks out of my wheel as well. I found most of the replacement parts I need from ewheels.com or revrides.com

I don't know how to tell if the batteries are ok though. Repairs should be pretty easy, I've replaced the trolley handles on mine already and it wasn't that bad. 
Good luck with everything.

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Thanks Giffy!

I went and got my parts from ewheels and they were awesome to deal with.  Regarding the battery i was told that if the pack hasn’t sustained any physical damage and if it charges up properly then you should be good to go... luckily both applied in my situation.  

I have taken apart the 16X completely and am ready to re-assemble except for 1 issue:   While replacing the inner shell and I am having the toughest time with the removing the rear speaker mount.  It is really glued in there with whatever white material they used to waterproof the unit. Anyone have any suggestions?  I will likely need to cut around the piece with a handsaw to get proper access to pry it off or cut the glue.  

Also, for the “white glue”  I am using  bathroom silicone... do you guys think that’s adequate to seal the the slit in between the two inner shells?

I am pretty impressed at how they built this wheel to minimize the use of specialized parts per side.  The inner shell side piece  is designed to work on either side. 

 

Cheers,

John

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So i successfully swapped out my inner shell.... took me around 5-6 hours over 2 nights to complete.  Everything seems to be working fine, however, i have not been able to take it for a full ride to fully confirm ride quality.  Also, after i put everything back together, the internal red light that indicates charging turns on when when I power up the unit and i can’t get it to turn off.  Anyone know what this might be? EDIT: THIS ISN’T AN ISSUE: internal light should turn on when unit is powered up or charging.

 

thanks in advance!

 

John

Edited by Johnw
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Here are some tips/ notes on the repair.  I replaced the inner shell, one of the outer shells and both rails.  

Front Light connector:  my new outer shell had a piece that needed to be grounded down with a file in order to accommodate the bottom power plug.  (See pic in the link below)

Waterproofness: I noticed that a fair bit of dust and water was getting inside the shell the EUC.. luckily there was no apparent water damage but I did take Buell47’s tip to help seal the inside.  Thanks Buell47!  I used a liberal amount of outdoor multipurpose silicone to seal the two inner shell pieces 

Rear speaker mounts:  the rear speaker comes with a mount that is glued in.  It is a pain to remove.  I was able to use a pry tool and a hammer to wedge it loose... it took around 20 minutes to get both sides out.  (See pics in the link) When i split open the inner shell I bent the speaker frame.  You can easily bend it back using a pair of pliers.  Be sure to adequately seal the speaker as that is another entry point for water.  

Rails:  My original inner shell included an additional metal piece at the bottom end of the rail.  This didn’t fit in the new inner shell and i don’t believe it requires them.  

Alignment of outer shell screws:  I found that some of the outer shell bolts didn’t align properly.  This is due to the mounting of the pieces attached to the shell bolts (the bottom speakers and the rear brake lights and the dummy mount on the other side).  You will need to adjust (loosen or tighten the mounting screws) on those pieces in order to properly align the screws for the outer shell.  EDIT: Buell47’s suggestion to use a 11/64 or 4.5mm drill bit to enlarge the holes on the outer shell is a much easier fix! 

Pics: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0eGtnIORbpayM

Also included my an illustration my wife and daughter did of my crash. LOL!

Hope this helps!  

John

Edited by Johnw
Update to include better tips
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33 minutes ago, Johnw said:

Alignment of outer shell screws.  I found that some of the outer shell bolts didn’t align properly.  This is due to the mounting of the pieces attached to the shell bolts (the bottom speakers and the rear brake lights and the dummy mount on the other side).  You will need to adjust (loosen or tighten the mounting screws) on those pieces in order to properly align the screws for the outer shell.  

Yes, that's a pain in the ass job. 

After the second disassemble I drilled all holes with a 4.5mm drill and used flat top stainless steel allen screws. That makes the assembly a lot easier.

 

38 minutes ago, Johnw said:

Rails:  My original inner shell included an additional metal piece at the bottom end of the rail.  This didn’t fit in the new inner shell and i don’t believe it requires them.  

 Can you show me a picture? :confused1:

 

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5 hours ago, Johnw said:

I posted the pics in the album https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0eGtnIORbpayM.  They are a little grainy but should hopefully explain it.  

It looks like the shell has been reinforced there and the metal plate is no longer necessary. 

 

5 hours ago, Johnw said:

any idea what could be causing that internal red light to turn on while the 16x is powered up?  Tried turning it on and off but it still stays on.

That the LED lights up when the wheel is on or charging is correct, but it should be off when the wheel is turned off.

Are the ambient LEDs and lighting working properly? Not that there is a short-circuit somewhere and therefore the LED is on. :confused1:

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5 hours ago, buell47 said:

That the LED lights up when the wheel is on or charging is correct, but it should be off when the wheel is turned off.

Haha... sweet!  I guess my wheel is working properly then! I must have misread another post thinking they had a similar “issue”.  I  just need to wait for some warmer weather to properly test it out. 

 

16 hours ago, buell47 said:

After the second disassemble I drilled all holes with a 4.5mm drill and used flat top stainless steel allen screws. That makes the assembly a lot easier.

Are you referring to the holes used to mount the brake/dummy and bottom speaker pieces? If so, I should replace them to as the screws have started to strip. 

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1 hour ago, Johnw said:

Haha... sweet!  I guess my wheel is working properly then! I must have misread another post thinking they had a similar “issue”.  I  just need to wait for some warmer weather to properly test it out. 

Ich dachte, Sie meinen, dass die rote LED bei ausgeschaltetem Rad an ist. :D

1 hour ago, Johnw said:

Are you referring to the holes used to mount the brake/dummy and bottom speaker pieces? If so, I should replace them to as the screws have started to strip. 

Screenshot-20191110-111317-Quick-Pic.jpg

 

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Braved the below freezing temperatures this afternoon and glad to report back that everything seems to work as designed!  I went back to the crash site to recover the tile tracker that i had taped to the outside of the EUC.  Went back home and installed it inside the EUC.  

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/3/2020 at 12:09 PM, Johnw said:

Thanks Giffy!

I went and got my parts from ewheels and they were awesome to deal with.  Regarding the battery i was told that if the pack hasn’t sustained any physical damage and if it charges up properly then you should be good to go... luckily both applied in my situation.  

I have taken apart the 16X completely and am ready to re-assemble except for 1 issue:   While replacing the inner shell and I am having the toughest time with the removing the rear speaker mount.  

   You're welcome. I'm glad everything went ok. You've inspired to maybe try and replace the inner shell myself too.

 

On 4/4/2020 at 6:00 PM, Johnw said:

Here are some tips/ notes on the repair.  I replaced the inner shell, one of the outer shells and both rails.  

Front Light connector:  my new outer shell had a piece that needed to be grounded down with a file in order to accommodate the bottom power plug.  (See pic in the link below)

Waterproofness: I noticed that a fair bit of dust and water was getting inside the shell the EUC.. luckily there was no apparent water damage but I did take Buell47’s tip to help seal the inside.  Thanks Buell47!  I used a liberal amount of outdoor multipurpose silicone to seal the two inner shell pieces 

Rear speaker mounts:  the rear speaker comes with a mount that is glued in.  It is a pain to remove.  I was able to use a pry tool and a hammer to wedge it loose... it took around 20 minutes to get both sides out.  (See pics in the link) When i split open the inner shell I bent the speaker frame.  You can easily bend it back using a pair of pliers.  Be sure to adequately seal the speaker as that is another entry point for water.  

Rails:  My original inner shell included an additional metal piece at the bottom end of the rail.  This didn’t fit in the new inner shell and i don’t believe it requires them.  

Alignment of outer shell screws:  I found that some of the outer shell bolts didn’t align properly.  This is due to the mounting of the pieces attached to the shell bolts (the bottom speakers and the rear brake lights and the dummy mount on the other side).  You will need to adjust (loosen or tighten the mounting screws) on those pieces in order to properly align the screws for the outer shell.  EDIT: Buell47’s suggestion to use a 11/64 or 4.5mm drill bit to enlarge the holes on the outer shell is a much easier fix! 

Pics: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0eGtnIORbpayM

Also included my an illustration my wife and daughter did of my crash. LOL!

Hope this helps!  

John

Definitely some good advise in here. Thanks. 
 

PS, I really enjoyed that illustration lol

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Never owned a Kingsong. Just wanna say that cracks can be a problem long term when it comes to moisture and contamination going into the control board and battery compartments. If they're sealed then it should be safe long term.

It's a tricky situation because it's hard to inspect sometimes. Wheels get harder and harder to disassemble and inspect. On the other hand, it's less likely that such wheels expose their insides. 

Gotways are easy to inspect but they're also the least protected.

You'd be surprised how crappy and raggedy wheels can look and still be rideable. It's not about cosmetic paneling, but the battery and control board compartments. And having a solidly mounted control board.

What they do in China is get rid of the original shell and weld together a new metal shell. The wheels look weird but they become nearly indestructible.

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Nice writeup! Thank you for sharing your success. I see that your new shells/installation don't feature the balloon over the lift switches—did they do away with that hack? Finding the balloons in mine was quite a surprise until I read that the very early batches had issues with water in the lift switches. 

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