KS18 max amperage output

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Apologies if this has been covered, but I cant find any specs on maximum current to the motor, from my 18L. I saw something that said 45amp, but notice Im barely using more than 10Amps under acceleration up hill. Is maximum amperage mostly controlled by the power available in the battery, or is it monitored and limited via software (within means of remaining capacity)? Im betting theres no EXACT figure, but what are you guys seeing as max output? We can blame the EUC app for me even wondering about this, as I never bothered to even look before. Aside from purposely eating asphalt from a serious overlean at speeds uphill, Im not quite sure how to get this figure. I was fairly shocked to see that I was hitting over +10amps and -850ma. I consider myself an easy rider, do these specs elude to the same assumptions? Its neat if i can deduce that I am braking at 80% of the same force I see during max acceleration. Of course, i can easily be corrected if this is completely wrong to think. Still loving the wheel more and more each day! I can tell you this.... 20mph speed wobbles are driving me nuts. I cant imagine how fast they get out of hand at 30mph.

[TDK]

On my KS 18XL I got about 51 A four times in seven months and many times more than 40 A. I always wanted to "squeeze" as much power as possible from the wheel when driving uphill. The maximum power obtained was 3.7 kW.

[mrelwood]

There are two very different places to measure the electric current from: battery output and controller output (=motor input). Due to PWM technology and the large capacitors that provide peak current, the amperage that goes to the motor can momentarily be quite huge, in the range of 200A or even more. The current that the battery can produce can also reach dozens of amps, but I believe this is what the fuses in KS wheels protect. IIRC the fuses on the 18XL add up to 60A.

GW wheels report only the motor current, which I’ve seen peak as high as 200A in the apps for my MSX. Unfortunately I have no idea how this would translate to as a battery current.

Important thing to notice is how seemingly very small changes in elevation or acceleration can suddenly increase the current draw by several times. This added with the fact how imprecise and low sampling rate the readings are, it’s not very beneficial to look at the numbers all that closely. Only that if the logs show repeated readings of 40A and above, you should know that there is not very much margin left for further accelerations. But the KS would probably have warned you by then with the ”Overpower” alert.

Edit: Also: crawling up a steep hill takes much more amps than riding fast on a level surface.

Edited February 18, 2020 by mrelwood

[Preston Palmer]

If you are

On 2/17/2020 at 2:46 PM, ShanesPlanet said:

20mph speed wobbles are driving me nuts. I cant imagine how fast they get out of hand at 30mph.

Reduce your tire pressure by a few PSI to settle it down.  Squeeze the wheel with your legs for more control.  I ride my 18XL at 30 all the time and have no wobble issues whatsoever.  They will go away as you spend more time on the wheel...  Tire pressure does play a big factor.

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25 minutes ago, Preston Palmer said:

If you are

Reduce your tire pressure by a few PSI to settle it down.  Squeeze the wheel with your legs for more control.  I ride my 18XL at 30 all the time and have no wobble issues whatsoever.  They will go away as you spend more time on the wheel...  Tire pressure does play a big factor.

I'll give that a try once its not so damn cold out here. I think my wobbles are mostly induced by lack of fitness and lack of experience. My last ride was pretty smooth and after a few miles, i noted I was doing 20mph comfortably w/o thinking. It also helped to get away from my front street as it is uneven asphalt. It seems the ride is MUCH better and less tiring, in other places. Of course riding the cow fields isnt wobbly, its a 15mph tough as hell workout.