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Kingsong 18 L or 18 XL?

Shellz

By Shellz
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Tawpie Grand Master

Tawpie

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, East Coast said:

the sticker inside the rim starts KS-18-ZX

I'm pretty sure that's the motor model/serial number. What model do the apps say it is? The KingSong app is probably the most reliable for getting device info (not for much anything else though!), it should be in the 'device' section.

Edited by Tawpie
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Tawpie Grand Master

Tawpie

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You'll be opening the shell... look for YouTube videos. You won't have to (and really really should not) open the batteries. They're pretty easy to get into, QUALITY philips screwdriver and probably a 5mm hex wrench to get the pedals off. EDIT: watching this, it looks like there's batteries (the big flat silver things) on both sides AND they titled the video "18L". I'll bet @ShanesPlanet knows how the guts look since he's owned both models. All you want to know is that there's a battery on each side of the wheel, then you can put it back together!

 

Edited by Tawpie
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Tawpie Grand Master

Tawpie

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If you do open it up to take a peek, DO NOT use locktite on anything that comes anywhere near plastic because most locktite eats plastic and will destroy it (there are special very very expensive versions that are plastic safe, but you don't need to use locktite). And don't over torque the screws... 'nicely snug' is good.

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Tawpie Grand Master

Tawpie

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15 minutes ago, East Coast said:

Should I update the firmware? I got an update when I installed the KS App

That's entirely up to you. I don't know of any particular reason to update the firmware so would stick with it as is 'for now'.

19 minutes ago, East Coast said:

I don't want the batteries to get damaged on the first charge.

In theory, a power outage shouldn't be a problem, but I completely understand your caution. Strange things can happen when the power is being switched off and on.

When you do charge it, charge it until the charger's light goes green, then leave it on the charger for an additional hour or two, then go have fun. Do this leave-it-on-green-for-an-hour-or-two every time you charge it, the current wisdom is it extends the life of the batteries (tons of discussion on this forum as to why, look for "80%"). I don't bother charging at all until the battery drops below 50%, and then I time things so it gets full charge+an-hour-or-two-at-green just before I want to ride again. It's not the end of the world to leave it sit at full charge, but it might mean I only get 30,000 miles on the pack instead of 31,000. The balancing part (sitting for an hour or two at green) allows the system to balance the battery packs and packs that are allowed to get out of balance by not doing this are known to suffer early death.

Edited by Tawpie
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East Coast Enthusiast

East Coast

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Thx! I plan to let it run overnight since it's supposed to be 12 hrs to charge :efeeda4ad8: However, I will do the math to make sure I add those extra hrs in.

The way the charging is done on EUC is definitely different then the electric scooters. Thankful I don't have to worry about getting cut off on low battery while making the speed.

 

Hopefully, they sent me the correct wheel since returning it to then get another one sounds like a big hassle especially as FedEx is not having delays in my area. 

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..... Grand Master

.....

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I have an 18XL with a 2kw motor. I've had 4 of the damn things so far. The Firmware should tell you via app, what model you have. You can also check the trolley to see if its the upgraded version, simply by the color of the slides. Black is old, silver is new. The only thing that made an XL not an L (back at first) was battery size and the shit ass way they rigged the wiring in it. XL has more battery and crap wiring routing. As they progessed, the 18xl got a larger motor and slightly redesigned shell, different firmware and an update lift sensor. They also changed the L mudflap to a much worse XL design. Since I rarely reach max output on the motor, but regularly sag the battery to dangerous levels, the older XL with 2kw motor is a safer choice for me than the newer 2500w motors. You only need open 1 panel to see if its an xl or an L. The L has a battery box and clean wire routing inside. The 18xl has plastic wrapped batterries (no box), jank wire routing and the side panel has been shaved to offer nearly no impact protection for the battery.

Even after all this time and all the newer wheels out, the 18l/XL is my personal favorite all rounder. I love to farkle and 'upgrade' things, but my xl has merely gotten a rolNZ cover and some large pedals after all this time. Im wearing thru tires faster than some people, but i also dont play overly nice with my machine. I do wish the 18XL had come down in price over the years, but alas... if they're still selling in droves, no need to make them cheaper.  Elegant, simple, ergonomic, reliable, comfortable, solid, and tough. A smooth ride with useable lights and music, not too heavy not too wimpy.  Seriously, Kingsong USED to build wheels that had those qualities!!!

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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..... Grand Master

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Posted
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2 hours ago, East Coast said:

Will safe guard it.

Guess it goes with something inside that may easily get damaged?

Didn't find much info online. I'm prob not using the write keywords for my search lol

Unless you do something VERY stupid, you should never need that fuse. Aside from me combing thru mine regular to clean and check things, I've found no issues. I have been warned to keep an eye on the board, as they may have used sub standard heat sink compound under the fets. Someone mentioned the paste dries over time and can compromise the cooling ability for heat reansfer across paste being an air gap. I've noticed no issue and have been meaning to check.

DO NOT USE LOCTITE NEAR PLASTIC. Seriously, if it doesnt say its for plastic, don't. Some compounds have been known to work into the micro fissures of the plastics and it basically turns them into a pile of dust, right before your eyes. No bullsh*t I've seen it happen.

Edited by ShanesPlanet
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Circuitmage Mentor

Circuitmage

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On 11/16/2021 at 6:16 PM, Tawpie said:

If you do open it up to take a peek, DO NOT use locktite on anything that comes anywhere near plastic because most locktite eats plastic and will destroy it (there are special very very expensive versions that are plastic safe, but you don't need to use locktite). And don't over torque the screws... 'nicely snug' is good.

 

I second the "snug" comment. Even after buying a bag of replacement screws, I just tighten them ever so slightly when I put them back in. The shell pressure and riding seems to keep them snug enough. The worst thing is taking that last screw out that just doesn't want to budge. Better having it a bit loose, or even fall out, than have to deal with a stripped screw.

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