Tesla dismantle

[Cannings]

So I'm checking on anything loose in my Tesla I've got to this point 

 

Where do I go from here? The screws round the handle etc?

[Shad0z]

i know all about this. i done it 4 times. do you want to dismantle it completely?

then disconnect batteries

take out the screws around the side

and the hidden screw in the control board compartment (it is in a hole)

and the one under the trolley handle (take out the screws holding that as well)

find all screws. once they are all taken out there should be a little peice of tape under where the control board is. just take that off

and also remember the screws that holds the pedal.

and then it is. "detach!" and one part of the shell can be taken off. no click tabs (remember all the screws)

[Cannings]

I got scared and didn't realise the batteries were detachable as I needed to ride it this morning so after I took all the screws I could see out put it all back together, thanks for this though i'll have another go on the weekend.

[Shad0z]

1 hour ago, Cannings said:

I got scared and didn't realise the batteries were detachable as I needed to ride it this morning so after I took all the screws I could see out put it all back together, thanks for this though i'll have another go on the weekend.

good luck ?

[cbgti]

@Shad0z  :  Do you knows the size of the screws? All the screws are the same?
On my MSuper3, all the screws were rusted and hard to remove...

I don't want this on my next wheel... I would try to change them for stainless steel screws.

[Shad0z]

20 minutes ago, cbgti said:

@Shad0z  :  Do you knows the size of the screws? All the screws are the same?
On my MSuper3, all the screws were rusted and hard to remove...

I don't want this on my next wheel... I would try to change them for stainless steel screws.

all screws are same size and type but the 8 screws. 4 on each side that hold the side panels in place are a litrle shorter while i dont remember how many. But the ones holding the shell under the glossy plastic are a little longer. But i havent experienced rust on these screws. 

[cbgti]

Thanks! ?  

[Roo Williams]

This just posted by a Facebook EUC group member Tony Stein:

 

1. NEVER attempt to do this without the right screwdrivers and Allen key. If you round off a screw head you’ll have plenty of time to regret it....
2. DONT use a power driver, use ordinary screwdrivers (see above)
3. Take the pedals off first - they flap and get in the way and they’re the easiest thing in the world to remove.
4. Remove the thin plastic strips on each side around half-way down the side panels next - they just pop off with the slightest encouragement from a small flat bladed screwdriver.
5. Remove the side panels next. There are two screws under the strip you just removed and two at the top of the panel on each side, four screws each side in all. If the small pad extends the full width of the side panel you’ll have to peel it back to expose the screws.
6. Photograph the inside of each panel to remind you of how the batteries sit and where the wiring lies. 
7. Remove the batteries. It should be very obvious which bits plug into what when it comes to re-connecting but tape and label them if you’re not sure. You’ll need to either unclip the wires or unscrew the whole clip.
8. Remove the front and rear trim. This is very cheap and brittle plastic. Start by teasing out the bottom then be brave and, using a flat blade work your way up to the top. They will just pop off and they pop back on the same way. They overlap at the top.
10. Unclip the two plastic parts at the bottom of each side - these sit under the pedals. They pop off but need quite a lot of help. As well as having two studs they clip in at each side.
11. Remove the four screws on each side that join the two halves of the shell. You’ll find them. Be very very careful to use the right screwdriver as they are horrible quality and you’ll round them in a heartbeat if it’s the wrong driver.
12. Remove the six large screws and washers that connect the shell to the wheel/motor assembly on each side - hard to miss and easy to remove.
13. Pull the sides of the shell apart and let the wheel/ motor assembly drop out being very careful to not catch the LED strip if you’ve put it back into the groove.
14. Fix your tyre and work backwards.........

[Shad0z]

1 minute ago, Roo Williams said:

This just posted by a Facebook EUC group member Tony Stein:

 

1. NEVER attempt to do this without the right screwdrivers and Allen key. If you round off a screw head you’ll have plenty of time to regret it....
2. DONT use a power driver, use ordinary screwdrivers (see above)
3. Take the pedals off first - they flap and get in the way and they’re the easiest thing in the world to remove.
4. Remove the thin plastic strips on each side around half-way down the side panels next - they just pop off with the slightest encouragement from a small flat bladed screwdriver.
5. Remove the side panels next. There are two screws under the strip you just removed and two at the top of the panel on each side, four screws each side in all. If the small pad extends the full width of the side panel you’ll have to peel it back to expose the screws.
6. Photograph the inside of each panel to remind you of how the batteries sit and where the wiring lies. 
7. Remove the batteries. It should be very obvious which bits plug into what when it comes to re-connecting but tape and label them if you’re not sure. You’ll need to either unclip the wires or unscrew the whole clip.
8. Remove the front and rear trim. This is very cheap and brittle plastic. Start by teasing out the bottom then be brave and, using a flat blade work your way up to the top. They will just pop off and they pop back on the same way. They overlap at the top.
9. Remove the light ring. This again involves the use of a flat blade. If you can I clip the bottom then pushing it from side to side will I clip all the way to the top. The top clip is the most difficult as it’s long and clips deep under the LED light strip.
10. Remove the light strip carefully - the wires connecting this are very thin. Remember which way they coil if you want the lights to light up where you’d expect them after you’ve reassembled!
11. Unclip the two plastic parts at the bottom of each side - these sit under the pedals. They pop off but need quite a lot of help. As well as having two studs they clip in at each side.
12. I now put the LED strips back in to their grooves and put masking tape over them as I was paranoid I’d damage the thin wires and wanted them out of the way. I guess you can remove them but I didn’t.
13. Remove the four screws on each side that join the two halves of the shell. You’ll find them. Be very very careful to use the right screwdriver as they are horrible quality and you’ll round them in a heartbeat if it’s the wrong driver.
14. Remove the six large screws and washers that connect the shell to the wheel/motor assembly on each side - hard to miss and easy to remove.
15. Pull the sides of the shell apart and let the wheel/ motor assembly drop out being very careful to not catch the LED strip if you’ve put it back into the groove.
16. Fix your tyre and work backwards.........

i dont know why he thinks you have to take off the led strips??? 

i have taken my tesla aprt 4 times so i know its not needed

 

[Roo Williams]

Yeah someone commented on that too. Will amend the post.

[Roo Williams]

How does it look now @Shad0z? I've yet to try full disassembly so following your lead!

[Roo Williams]

One tip while you're in there, use rubber to buffer the space between the washers that hold the control board plate in its slot. I've seen a few Gotway models (my/other peoples Teslas, MCM4 to call out specifics) with the same issue of the board being able to vibrate because these screws don't clamp the board in place, reason being that the alu plate the board is mounted on isn't wider than the slot it sits in.

This causes the gyro on the board to move and feedback to the motor resulting in a weird humming sound and deep vibration feeling in the pedals when at a stop or very slow speeds.

[Shad0z]

Just now, Roo Williams said:

One tip while you're in there, use rubber to buffer the space between the washers that hold the control board plate in its slot. I've seen a few Gotway models (my/other peoples Teslas, MCM4 to call out specifics) with the same issue of the board being able to vibrate because these screws don't clamp the board in place, reason being that the alu plate the board is mounted on isn't wider than the slot it sits in.

This causes the gyro on the board to move and feedback to the motor resulting in a weird humming sound and deep vibration feeling in the pedals when at a stop or very slow speeds.

yeah i had that problem. it was humming like crazy. and i used rubber but one of the screws the thread is gone so i need to maybe make some new thread. but for now i just used loctite

it works fine. but i still have very slight humming sometimes. but i dont know if its just me thinking there is humming. but i fixed it

i think actually it was my comment you saw because i also typed on his post that he didnt need to remove the led strips

[Roo Williams]

1 minute ago, Shad0z said:

it works fine. but i still have very slight humming sometimes. but i dont know if its just me thinking there is humming. but i fixed it

i think actually it was my comment you saw because i also typed on his post that he didnt need to remove the led strips

Yeah same with the humming... Not like it was but at slow speeds I can definitely feel a vibration, but put it down to the feel of the motor moving between steps.

Yeah probably was! Your name is a little different on there!!