Harvey Pooka

Thanks @RetroThruster. With @DjPanJan's help I was able to get it taken apart. I'm going to give some details here for anyone else like me (non-mechanically inclined neophyte) who has to do this. RECOMMENDED TOOLS Allen keys/wrenches (hexagon) - 4 mm and 6 mm. Long handle for the 6 mm. Putty knives (2 is easier than one) Paint scraper or screw driver Two things you can use as prying levers (I used two metal tire levers) Three soup cans Pieces of card board 1. Remove pedal hanger on one side using 6 mm Allen wrench. You don't need to remove both sides. The screws are pretty tight so a long handle one makes it easier. 2. Remove all the screws holding the plates on using the 4 mm Allen wrench. 3. Work the putty knife under the edge of the plate and cut the seal all the way around. i found using two putty knives to work well. The plate has a tendency to pull tight again and restick so I inserted cardboard to keep the separation. 4. Do this on both sides. 5. Work your prying levers in and around to opposite sides.I had to use a paint scraper to pry the opening big enough for my levers.(Picture 1) 6. This was the part I was not certain about. The plate is on really tight. As well, some of the sealant may be on the back lip inside which is what I found (Picture 2). Finally, the magnets inside pull the plates down as well. Strong magnets. So you have to pry much harder than you might think. 7. Flip motor unit over and loosen plate on other side using putty knives. Pry apart to make sure you have broken the seal. 8. Put three soup cans underneath the motor making sure you do not pinch the wires (Picture 3). 9. Press down really hard on both sides of the rim. Don't let up. The magnet will pull it back together if you let up on the pressure before the rim fully comes off. 10. And you are done (Pictures 4 and 5)!

Thanks @DjPanJan. These pictures do help. The axle looks like it is not removed so it probably is just excessive sealant making it hard to come off. I might email EcoDrift to confirm. I ride with 40 -45 psi so I don't think it was that. I was on an off road ride coming down a mountain road. Quite bumpy with rocks. Tire popped and had to walk out abut 6 - 7 km. I'm guessing one of three things happened. 1. I hit or scrapped a rock with the side of my wheel which cracked and then later popped the wheel. 2. I hit something hard enough to both crack and pop the wheel at the same time. (It didn't feel like that.) 3. I popped the wheel (snakebite tear in the side of the inner tube) and rolling the wheel out over bumpy rocky ground for 6 - 7 km cracked it. Things like this happen. With all the truly crappy things happening in the world, this is not that serious. I really do appreciate you taking the time to find those pictures.

Has anyone replaced a rim on the 16X yet? I had a broken rim but instead of buying the whole motor, EWheels sell the rim alone so I thought I would try that. It hasn't arrived yet but I thought I would do the dismantling while waiting. I've removed the pedal hangers and am at the point of removing the two round black metal plates on either side. I've removed the screws. The plates are solidly attached with a sealant/glue all around the edge which I have loosened but the plates still do not release. Do I need to remove the axles to get the plate off? I don't want to remove them because of the wiring siliconed in unless I have to. I looks as if it should slide off over the axle but it doesn't. If not that, then the glue must still be holding it. Maybe where I can't reach. I didn't want to pry heavily at it unless I know that's the only cause. Any advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Where in Canada are you? If you happen to be in Vancouver, I'm happy to meet up and let you learn on my KS14D. It'll be really tiny for you, but you can crash it all you like.

Thanks @mrelwood and @Aneta. I appreciate the information on pedal and other mods. I agree that this stuff should be in a different pinned post. I found everything quite interesting and educational and I think others might too. In this discussion, only riders interested in 16Xs would see it. (After reading 180+ other pages of posts).

Thanks @Mrelwood. That makes sense. I thought of bending the knees as pulling your body back so the EUC would have an easier time catching up. Thinking of it as dropping into a crouch is different and makes sense. As for the modifications, what I had seen was someone putting wedges on their pedals. So I understood people were Michael Jackson leaning forward to put more force on the front of the pedal. I thought the wedges allowed people to put force on the front of the pedal from an angle which would allow them to stand upright instead of Michael Jackson leaning. I drew a picture showing the two. (Forgive me for the rudimentary drawing. Apparently I am neither a techie nor an artist.) I thought power pads did the same thing except you needed to use your knees. So from what you are saying, these mods don't help with acceleration so I'm assuming they just help you to not slide off the pedals or EUC if you are going downhill etc or give you a better grip while leaning.

Thank you for the lay person summary. I liked yours and @Aneta's discussion (and a couple of other people) because you guys went into the science of what's happening. And because you guys were discussing the science behind something and often confirming the theories, it was like a peer reviewed journal report. Often people here post suggestions based on personal experience, which is still valid, and if I try it, it often works, but it's nice to know the why the suggestion works. It also lets me adjust my techniques or habits or extrapolate. So for example, extrapolating your last statement about bending your knees to unload the EUC. So bending your knees pulls your torso back which I am assuming is the unloading that you are referring to? Does this mean riding with bent knees with your body more over wheel all the time result in needing less power at a given speed over riding by leaning forward at the same speed? The EUC needs less power to "catch" you so has more power available for sudden bursts if you need it (to accelerate, compensate for rough terrain, etc). If so, that would mean modifications to allow you to accelerate without leaning as much (ie. power pads, foot pedal/toe modifications, raised front calibration) would give a slightly greater available power safety margin no matter what speed you are travelling. Would it also reduce the drain on your battery? (ie. travelling 35 kph with your knees bent requires less power than travelling the same speed by leaning forward.) I know it's the same speed so it sounds as if the power drain should be the same, but does the unloading make a difference? I'm not a speed rider so I'm not worried about crashing while trying to go fast. But I do like riding farther so my battery does drain down. Again, thanks for the theoretical information.

I love this post. Not because I understand it . . . I don't. But you sneaked in a Hitchhiker's reference which is awesome. I showed the above linked discussion you had with @zeke to a friend of mine with a physics degree and asked him to explain it. His summary was, "Never mind. These people are smarter than you. Just do what they say."

The great thing about finding this forum is I've learned so much about the technical side of how EUCs work from everyone here. But as a non-techie luddite, my head now hurts. I think it is time to take the blue pill and go back to the days when I thought my wheel was powered by two hamsters . . . running together in parallel . . . a 2p? Nooooo! See what you've done?

Are you sure yours is second batch? Mine was earlier than that (Aug '19) and came with FW1.06. No pedal tilt problems but I ride slower and with bluetooth disabled.

As already mentioned, your body in training new muscles so some strengthening of them will occur over time. If your riding stance is radically different than your natural standing stance, just remember to stretch more. You are pulling your ligaments in weird (for you) directions. But also keep in mind you are also developing your brain (neuroplasticity). When learning anything new, your brain needs time to develop. Sometimes wobbles, or clinching your legs/feet, is your brain reacting more than necessary because it hasn't learned the right amount of adjusting needed to keep you up. It'll get better. When I started, I also turned my feet more parallel/inwards as it gave a more constant/secure grip on the wheel which I needed. As my natural balance and adjustment developed, I notice I rode with only light contact on the sides. My feet actually turned more outwards again without my realizing it.

Whether or not those points are needed for the 16X, I actually think it makes the stand look nicer. Thanks for sharing your design so openly. I have to find someone here who can print for a reasonable price but appreciate your generosity nonetheless.

I get the faint red light too sometimes. I just thought it was the Chinese government secretly spying on us.

I've just took mine off a few minutes after the charger light (standard charger) turned green. No beeps. Also been about 10 minutes. I'll listen for it in the future though. Up to now I haven't paid attention after charging. Usually just unplugged and either turn on wheel right away or left the room.

Thanks. No urgency. I wouldn't be surprise if their solution was: "Tell whiny customers to ride with broom and sweep in front of them as they ride. If wet, ride with mop."