goatman

mike likes bald

im a loner and a commuter, Xiiijojjo nailed it as far as im concerned, you need the speed and power to be safe at times to get away from traffic, if 65 or 70 km/h is needed to do it then so be it, i dont share a lane, i take the lane and other times to use cars as blockers when going through intersections while in the bike lane but i spend the majority of my time at about 25 mph/42 km/h out of traffic in bike lanes. my worst injury was when my ninebot one cut out doing 3 mph and slammed my shoulder into the asphalt, it was screwed for 6 months. only been riding 2 years, got 30,000 km's traveled on euc's probably another 30,000 km's on 80 km/h ebikes and the way i see it is if the cops had a problem with my riding style and speeds they wouldve seized my ebikes and euc's many many times already, the amount of police in my area is heavy with a major police precinct right around the corner if eucs/ebikes couldnt go faster than 25 mph id consider them unsafe and useless as a means for commuting and id just drive instead but im already thinking of scrapping the euc's because its cheaper for me to just drive and more convenient. my Master cost me 5 grand and i wont get 2 years out of it, 3rd and last set of bearings/tires/tubes before retiring it at 20,000 km's and im not going to pay 6 grand for a new lynx or sherman s or ex30.

i think there was moisture in the button, i ride with a small garbage bag and trunk bag over the top of the wheel because its been raining so much, had some nice weather and took the bag and cover off and the button started working again and then the last 2 days had the raincovers back on and the buttons acting up again. going to keep the display near the heat register at night to see if that fixes it

the cst knobby is my favorite tire that does everything, the sherman/kenda knobby i hated and the ribs on inside sidewalls gave me a flat by rubbing a hole in the tube.

opened up the wheel and did a continuity test on the buttons that are soldered to the circuit board and its the button themselves that are failing, you have to wiggle them just right in a certain direction in order for the switch/button to work. there are no part numbers on them, does anyone know the part number of these switches so i can just order new ones and replace them? the two lower buttons

got a batch 1 Master and it wont turn off, i just double click the lift button to set it on the kickstand and about 2 hours later it will beep 4 times and turn itself off, been like that for a couple weeks. takes 30 seconds of holding the on button to turn on. it still has the original display that doesnt work below 15 celsius. i was thinking of ordering that new board that works in all temps to see if that solves the issue but checking here first if someone knows what is causing this

ya grease gets in the motor but was easily cleaned up with a q-tip i replaced them with these bearings, the same Roger euc used https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011YLEIHE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details im at roughly 16,000 km's and the bearing and tire are just about toast im doing the 3rd tire, tube and set of bearings for probably the last time before the battery craps out on me.

theres a firmware update for the 9999.9km??? or are you confused with the 999.9km update?

more sag could be the resistance of the internal tag at high discharge rates that makes it hotter 25amp from a battery is useless in euc's but when i was looking for a real 10 amp cell for cycle life your typical 10amp cell was really only a 1c cell 3-5 amps and also looking for a cell that could discharge then automatically switch to receiving a charge from solar then go back to discharging without suffering losses (like regen) and that was the 30Q and 40T but theyre both prone to self discharging and cant handle cold weather it makes sense that what i saw as self healing was actually a discharge to 2.8v if you fully cycle a 40t/30q or nissan leaf battery from 4.2v to 2.5v 2x youll straighten out the discharge carve and rejuvenate the cell when i was doing those tests and uploading the results nobody knew what to call it. the molicels i like because they can handle freezing temperatures if your wheel has to stay outside for 8 hours in the winter ive pulled 8.5kw peak on my Master according to euc world and 5.5kw is normal which i really dont believe unless thats phase amps whats euc world, phase amps or battery amps? i dont use euc apps unless i want to see something i find them annoying

the P42 is a better cold weather cell than the 40T the 40T likes regen and 10 amps, its a performance cell you can continuously discharge/charge/discharge without suffering cycle life while doing that more than you could in a day. the p42 likes it hold or cold but not 10 amps, it cant get up to temperature for cycle life, it would rather see 12 amps right away to get its temperature up the p42 isnt chinese and the euc makers cant get a guaranteed supply of molicels so they quit using molicel you should want the P45 if you ride when it isnt always sunny and 75 or warmer you shouldnt get a 40T you should only want these cells for 4p packs if you ride hard, theyre high performance cells that perform/degrade like crap if theyre not being used the way theyre designed to be used. you see the self healing every 50 cycles is more pronounced than the 50S, it would be interesting to see someone do a continuous 10amp discharge/5amp charge/10amp discharge 10x in a row to see if it suffers any cycle life loss

i picked up the DNM DV-22AR so you dont have to file down the shock mount, it just fits. im about 175 and with a 750lb spring you bottom out on everything like an uneven sidewalk crack never mind a curb. theres a thread here and EMA suggested a 1250 lb spring for that weight. i wouldnt go with 1000lb spring if you buy the DNM DV-22AR.

40 T's are more likely to self discharge at full charge than at 3.3v, ive put old salvaged packs in storage for over a year at 3.3v with no self discharge. 40T and 30 Q are known to self discharge above 3.7v to fully charged voltages

i t-boned a car last year, the suspension tubes seemed straight when rolled on a flat surface but once fully compressed if it was wet outside the suspension would get sticky, i backed off the set screws that hold the brass graphite bearings and a bunch of wd-40 worked but my right foot seemed off center, i replaced the right suspension tube and it fixed everything

50E cells dont like regen whereas 40T cells like regen. if you do battery cycle testing and play with the continuous cycling you will see it in the charts https://endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/desulfate-40t-and-30q-and-vtc6-and-p42a.109601/ if you follow Roger EUC youll see his 50e packs are overheating, i think its because of cell resistance aka the cells are pooched, he was charging which meant he was pumping heat into the packs also (endothermic)

ive got a batch 1 master with 50 E packs, i ride the beeps pretty hard on the streets with about 12,000 km's on it over the last year. it gets charged every night, overnight. its probably not the smartest thing to do but theyre perfectly balanced, thinking to retire this wheel at 20,000 kms after this winter and put those packs in my kids ebikes so that if they fail they can still pedal home instead of me going splat. i think its cheaper to buy a new master than to buy replacements packs. was looking for replacement packs and i saw one pack for $1350 on alibaba and you need 4 of them and a new master is $2700. for my riding style i wish i had the 40T packs the 50 E will be lucky to go 400 cycles at these amps the 40 T if you ride hard will go 800 cycles and you can rejuvenate them what i want to see euc makers start using are the Molicel P45B batteries after saying all that, if i had an ex30 with 50E packs id probably retire that wheel at 40,000km's a master with 40Ts id probably retire at 40,000 km's