themyst

Two questions: Are you looking to swap batteries (e.g. drain one, switch to the other)? If so, you will need to convert the connectors on the controler side to something that is swappable (e.g. EC5/XT60) alongside the battery connectors on the stock batteries. The bullet connectors are nice, however they aren't conducive to hot swapping since each motor has their own exclusive power lines. The trick is to cut the bullet connectors off, swap them to something more universal, splice the power lines from both front and rear motor into a single connector. The rest is pretty straightforward. Are you looking to run the batteries in parallel? If so, you would simply do as stated above and run a Y cable between the controller and batteries so both are draining concurrently. The good points of running parallel are your batteries won't be running as hot since the amperage draw is essentially halved, which will also, in turn, increase your total range (compared to running two separate packs) and sustainable top speed. The cons are you will need to be extra vigilant with such a setup (e.g. charge the two batteries separately, NEVER connect them when the resting voltage of the two packs is over 1V). I suppose you COULD simply charge while the two packs are connected through the scooter, however if you have a failing/defective charger you will have no overcharge protection on the external pack which WILL cause a real nasty fire given how much energy is in 70Ah @ 16S. ----- If all of this sounds foreign to you, simply wire up the Ultra battery to a GX16-4Pin male (+1 +2 -3 -4) and flip the switch to swap between batteries. You will need to solder up a GX16-3Pin (+1 -3) to the input lines (charger lines) to charge the pack externally, but its a 30 minute job to install as opposed to perhaps a few hours and knowledge. There is one HUGE con of going this route, your power will be limited to around 670W max which is a hardware limitation; the GX16-4Pin is only capable of a maximum of 5A per pair of pins (10A theoretical sustained max). If any of this sounds foreign, consult or find a shop that may be able to do this for you. Best of luck!

Will the original monster seat fit this new wheel?

Also consider eWheels offers free extras in some cases which shrinks the price differential significantly. I’m looking at buying a Gotway Monster 100V $2550 from Aliexpress, vs $2850 from eWheels with free shipping. eWheels includes a second fast charger and seat, which are worth $180 +/- if purchased elsewhere separately.

DT3 controller works, increases torque/acceleration, no change to top speed, but will lower your overall range. I mitigated this by adding a second battery in parallel, 35Ah Spider

Hi, I was wondering if it is possible to run a DT2/3 controller on a Spider in your experience? Looking at the wiring diagrams of both the Spider and DT2/3 they look identical, so in theory it should work assuming the controller fits inside the deck, and I get the compact controller compatible with the latest EYE LCD. The Spider is rated for 44A continuous vs 54A on the DT2/3, I understand since the Spider battery is a MJ1 16S5P it wouldn’t be able to attain 54A, but wouldn’t it be easy enough to change P9=2 to limit peak power, or would the BMS be able to cap it without any user intervention? I believe the motors on the Spider are identical to those on the DT2 so that shouldn’t be a problem (I understand I will likely have worse range assuming my idea works). I live in the USA, so tipping the scales a little over 20kg isn’t a problem. I only ask because I have a failed Spider controller (appears to be a widespread problem) and would like to use a controller that is known to be reliable instead of putting another Spider controller in and potentially have the same problem. I created an account just to ask you this as I can’t get a clear answer anywhere else.