-Need help finding connector name.

[Funky]

Hey.

I need help finding out what name is this connector? (It is the motor sensor wire right?) More correctly i need the plug that has the wires.

 

 

I have bought aftermarket 6 pin plug and i want to buy the plug that goes into motherboard end. So i can solder and fixup my aftermarket plug. And next time i open my wheel - i only need to solder motor side the sensor wire, as for motherboard side simply plug it in.

(I damaged the sensor wire, "hot-fixed" it, but i want to fix it correctly by installing robust 6 pin e-bike plug.) 

 

 

Spoiler

Photo provided by @The Fat Unicyclist? So props go to him. <3

 

Edited December 11, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

Jst xh2.54 most probably. It's hard to say without seeing both ends disconnected. They come in all different pin numbers from 2-12+. Yours looks like a 6p.

[Funky]

2 hours ago, alcatraz said:

Jst xh2.54 most probably. It's hard to say without seeing both ends disconnected. They come in all different pin numbers from 2-12+. Yours looks like a 6p.

Yup it has 6 wires.

The thing is - i looked at aliexpress.. There are 3 types of same connector. (Only small differences like: One big "hook" at front. 2 small latching holes/feet at plug sides. Or the plug that goes in (male) has some groves at both ends, without latching thingy.)

I could order all 3 types. 3-5$ isn't much.. But that beats my intended plan of soldering before opening the wheel.  As i would need to open and find out which is the real plug and only then start soldering.

(Type in aliexpress "6 pin connector" and you will find many of them..) Some of which are: 

1. SH 1.0MM
2. JST 1.25MM
3. ZH 1.5MM
4. PH 2.0MM
5. XH 2.54MM

How do you know it's the XH 2.54? Just a guess?  

Edited December 14, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

The number in the name is the pin spacing in mm. You can measure that. 

But it looks like a 2.54 or a 2.0 however I'm leaning towards 2.54 because 2.0 looks more cramped and the wires are usually quite thin and mushed up together. But I can be wrong...

[Funky]

13 hours ago, alcatraz said:

The number in the name is the pin spacing in mm. You can measure that. 

But it looks like a 2.54 or a 2.0 however I'm leaning towards 2.54 because 2.0 looks more cramped and the wires are usually quite thin and mushed up together. But I can be wrong...

Before i did "quick fix", i cut off the plug that's connects motor/motherboard, the middle of wire connector, that you disconnect when removing motor.. (Still have it sitting on shelf)

The spacing "should" be the same, as of the end that plugs in motherboard? They would not use 2 different spacing plugs for each end? Would they? It measures right on mark 2mm, from one pin to next pin. Same for holes where pins go in.

If they use same plug at both ends. (The one that connects into motherboard and middle of wire) It's 2.0 then, going from center of pin hole to next pin hole center.

Edited December 15, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

No different spacing can't be connected together. Then it's indeed PH2.0.

[Funky]

5 hours ago, alcatraz said:

No different spacing can't be connected together. Then it's indeed PH2.0.

I know that.. You literally can't.

 

I meant 2 different connectors of each side of wire.

One connector at motherboard side example 2.54(Male plug + female plug) and at motor side it has 2.00 connector.. (But i doubt they would use 2 different plugs.)

18xl has 2 connectors - one at motherboard and second connects middle of wire. (for me the middle one "broke") Motherboard>Middle of wire>Motor

[alcatraz]

Oh, sorry. Sure you can. The only thing limiting you then is the current limit of the connector. I think 2.54 is up to 3A or something of the sort. (look it up if needed) 2.0 is 2A I believe.

For a hall sensor you can use any connector as it doesn't heat up at all (I think).

I've used both 2.0 and 2.54 and the latter is the most common by far. The connection feels a little bit more solid.

[Funky]

2 hours ago, alcatraz said:

Oh, sorry. Sure you can. The only thing limiting you then is the current limit of the connector. I think 2.54 is up to 3A or something of the sort. (look it up if needed) 2.0 is 2A I believe.

For a hall sensor you can use any connector as it doesn't heat up at all (I think).

I've used both 2.0 and 2.54 and the latter is the most common by far. The connection feels a little bit more solid.

I think you don't get what i mean...  I want to use original plug. (So i don't need to solder anything on motherboard.. Hence why i need the "name".)

I will be soldering the middle of wire connector. (The one which connects middle from motherboard and motor.)  Motherboard side the plug will remain the same.

What i was trying to say: They would not use one plug 2.54 and second one (the one connecting mid wire) 2.0? Both connectors would be 2.0 then. The connector which connect INTO motherboard. And second connector witch connects MIDDLE of wire.

Edited December 16, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

It's likely they used the same but not necessarily. Is there a problem of simply accessing it and measuring it? Why the guess work? If you have high res pictures of a board you might be able to see if it's XH or PH.

That's an odd design with two connectors. Is it to simplify a tire change you think? 

[Funky]

59 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

It's likely they used the same but not necessarily. Is there a problem of simply accessing it and measuring it? Why the guess work? If you have high res pictures of a board you might be able to see if it's XH or PH.

Like i said in my first post.... I wanted to buy "NEW" connector and do the soldering before opening wheel... NEXT TIME i open wheel - i can simply plug and play. I would need to solder only motor side connector. Motherboard side would have already been soldered and fixed up. I would need only to disconnect old one and plug in new one..

Save some time.

59 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

That's an odd design with two connectors. Is it to simplify a tire change you think? 

Yes - you don't need to mess around motherboard.

Edited December 17, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

You need a good second wheel so you don't get so much anxiety about working on one. If you order the wrong part you'll wait for that, open and not be able to finish. 

Study high res photos of the board then. 

[Funky]

3 hours ago, alcatraz said:

You need a good second wheel so you don't get so much anxiety about working on one. If you order the wrong part you'll wait for that, open and not be able to finish. 

I have no problem with downtime. Need be i can go back to old fashion bike. That's why i want the parts, before i need to open then wheel.

Need be i can use old plug. Just extra time soldering new connector to old one. Time which i wanted to save, by soldering the connectors without opening the wheel. (Which seems i will have to do anyways.. Next tire change ill do that.)

[alcatraz]

Soldering is only done on the board. On wires connectors are merely crimped on. If you're only doing 6 wires then you don't really need a crimp tool (if you have patience). 

The connectors are delivered with plastic housing and metal pins in two sets. Crimp the pins onto the wires and then insert into the connector. Piece of cake.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

9 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

If you're only doing 6 wires then you don't really need a crimp tool

I'm curious. How would you crimp on molex pins properly without the tool?

[Funky]

49 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

Soldering is only done on the board. On wires connectors are merely crimped on. If you're only doing 6 wires then you don't really need a crimp tool (if you have patience). 

The connectors are delivered with plastic housing and metal pins in two sets. Crimp the pins onto the wires and then insert into the connector. Piece of cake.

I was looking at connectors with wired leads... Solder wire to wire only.

And as i can't seem to find what connector it is 100%. I will be using original connector and simply cut/solder wires. Heat shrinks over each wire, followed by big one over all wires and done.

Edited December 17, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

2 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I'm curious. How would you crimp on molex pins properly without the tool?

While you might argue it isn't as solid as with a crimp tool, you can simply just press down hard on the metal tabs with a small flathead screwdriver.

Just trim and strip the wire properly so that you get all four tabs in the pin to press onto the wire, then it will hold nicely. Strip so that all wires have the right length for them to resist tugging on the harness without one pin doing all the work. 

The more pins, the greater the tug tolerance. If you only have 2 pins, and trim improperly, then you might see failures.

[alcatraz]

1 hour ago, Funky said:

I was looking at connectors with wired leads... Solder wire to wire only.

And as i can't seem to find what connector it is 100%. I will be using original connector and simply cut/solder wires. Heat shrinks over each wire, followed by big one over all wires and done.

Soldering is possibly more work even without a crimp tool. But sure, that works.

[Funky]

26 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

Soldering is possibly more work even without a crimp tool. But sure, that works.

Each their own.

Soldering wire to wire is much easier, than what you said without tool.  (Aka: trimming wire, connecting each wire to pin, and pressing down the "tabs" of pin and inserting into plastic connector.

My "quick fix" was cutting broken connector of and wiring/soldering wires together. Next time i'm gonna solder this connector:

[Punxatawneyjoe]

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

While you might argue it isn't as solid as with a crimp tool, you can simply just press down hard on the metal tabs with a small flathead screwdriver.

I just didn't know if you had a different method that i wasn't aware of. The reason i would use the tool is because the tool doesn't just press down on the tabs like a standard bullet crimp. It actually curls them around the wire while pushing down. Although you could probably get away with not using it. It's like my thermal past argument , why would you risk potential failure and injury for a measly $20 tool or $10 worth of paste. But to each his own. I did however learn something on molex connectors from your earlier post about the measurements between pins..

[alcatraz]

16 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I just didn't know if you had a different method that i wasn't aware of. The reason i would use the tool is because the tool doesn't just press down on the tabs like a standard bullet crimp. It actually curls them around the wire while pushing down. Although you could probably get away with not using it. It's like my thermal past argument , why would you risk potential failure and injury for a measly $20 tool or $10 worth of paste. But to each his own. I did however learn something on molex connectors from your earlier post about the measurements between pins..

That's one way to look at it, sure. But there's risk in everything, even if you follow recommendations. One might argue that there shouldn't be two connectors on the wire if safety came first.

You know how we get bullied by the manufacturers these days. Don't repair it, just replace it "for your safety", or "Only authorised technitians are allowed to work on the device." That sort of stuff annoys me so I like alternate solutions if they pass my test, in this case a tug test.

@Funky If the cables you're going to use are precrimped, there's a chance that you're getting cheap cables. These cables are usually hobby grade, for like R/C use. Some are beefier like for bms use, usually all single color. Protect the connector from moisture as the plated pins could rust.

[Funky]

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

 

@Funky If the cables you're going to use are precrimped, there's a chance that you're getting cheap cables. These cables are usually hobby grade, for like R/C use. Some are beefier like for bms use, usually all single color. Protect the connector from moisture as the plated pins could rust.

Have you forgotten that EUC is made in china and everything is "cheap" there. (Made somewhat cheaply, etc..) So i doubt there will be big difference in those small colored wires.. (Also the "new" plug is said to be waterproof. Also much, much better that that 2.0mm plug.. -Which i had mid wire before.)

[alcatraz]

Yes, the round one you pictured looks great. I meant the xh/ph one.

Sure, it's very likely the factory used the regular chinese stuff. I'm just giving you a heads up if you later notice the gauge or weight of the wires is way different from what came in the wheel.

Did you see Marty's teardown of the V14? Those screw connectors for the batteries look similar to what you pictured but with an extra locking nut that screws the ends together. 

[Funky]

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

Did you see Marty's teardown of the V14? Those screw connectors for the batteries look similar to what you pictured but with an extra locking nut that screws the ends together. 

Nah, i don't really look at those heavy wheels - they don't interest me at all. But i have seen that connector.

Mine compared to those are very tiny... Almost same size as XH/PH ones. Doh they have 26/28 gauge wires inside. Same size as old connector. (Wires measured around ~1.2mm)

[alcatraz]

I'd never buy it either. While they used solid screw connectors in one location, the hall sensor connector looked like it came out of a lego kit. Wiggle, wiggle. 

26/28 awg are quite delicate. Take care.