Mten4

[Santino2801]

Hey, I hope this finds you well. 

 

I have an mten4.

 

It has ridden very smoothly for some time. 

 

Recently it started vibrating & feeling like it was going to cut out at low speed, I haven't wanted to take it up to the higher speeds as I fear it will cut out for sure...it's like it's resisting & chugging & likely to cut out. I would say it feels like a chugging if that makes sense. If I don't lean much & keep my weight backwards & allow my upper body in the forward motion, especially arms, & Bend my knees, this prevents it somewhat & I can ride slowly home, but it would never normally do this up until now, I wonder if something is loose now for example. Has anyone else had this problem. 

 

Thank so much 

 

🫡

Edited November 15, 2023 by Santino2801

[Hellkitten]

Damn. Sorry to hear. I love mine. If you can post a short vid that might help others diagnose it more accurately. 

[YCC]

Calibrate the balance of EUC, use the official app to calibrate.

[Denny Paul]

Front to back oscillating (vibration) can be a sign of a loose main axle nut. The one that secures the motor/tire/wheel to the chassis. 

could also be a loose motherboard. 

could also be something simple like a stick caught in the wheel well. 

I think these are the most common causes, but others are right, a video will be much more helpful to diagnose. 

Edited December 4, 2023 by Denny Paul

[alcatraz]

I heard that when the big capacitors on the board fail, if they don't short out, the wheel feels very sluggish. Check the caps for damage.

They're not very expensive to replace.

[BKW]

I recently put the acrylic spiked pedals from Begode on my mten4 and it makes the mten4 magnitudes better as far as grip and control. Not only are the grip and control better with these spiked pedals compared to the crappy nubbed pedals that original came with the EUC, but it instills a lot more confidence with them installed. I highly recommend changing out the original nubbed pedals that come with the mten4 for pedals with proper spikes. You will be much happier for it! Try to get begode pedals though as they have the angel adjustment that i think is pretty important for the mten4

Edited December 5, 2023 by BKW

[Funky]

20 minutes ago, BKW said:

I recently put the acrylic spiked pedals from Begode on my mten4 and it makes the mten4 magnitudes better as far as grip and control. Not only are the grip and control better with these spiked pedals compared to the crappy nubbed pedals that original came with the EUC, but it instills a lot more confidence with them installed. I highly recommend changing out the original nubbed pedals that come with the mten4 for pedals with proper spikes. You will be much happier for it! Try to get begode pedals though as they have the angel adjustment that i think is pretty important for the mten4

Some may find "spiked" pedals to grippy..

I for example exchanged those pointy spikes to Socket Head screws. The head height and being much wider than those small spikes made quit a difference in grip. Still better than regular grip tape. But same time not so grippy as those spikes, where they dig into your shoes and if you try to move you feet around while ridding - you only damage shoes bottoms.

My sneakers bottoms where all damaged, because of those pointy spikes.  I'll take socket head screws over grip tape or those spikes.

Edited December 5, 2023 by Funky

[alcatraz]

On 10,14,16in wheels spiked pedals are overkill (useless) IMO. It's because the amount of rider input needed to acc/brake is very little and "effortless".

If you've got a very heavy 16in wheel and riding in messy conditions of course that's a special condition. I'm referring to city riding, mostly in the dry.

[BKW]

1 hour ago, alcatraz said:

On 10,14,16in wheels spiked pedals are overkill (useless) IMO. It's because the amount of rider input needed to acc/brake is very little and "effortless".

If you've got a very heavy 16in wheel and riding in messy conditions of course that's a special condition. I'm referring to city riding, mostly in the dry.

I disagree when comparing to the OG mten4 pedals. The pedals on the mten4 is like standing on wet metal (slippery, etc). I think having better grip is essential, especially on a smaller wheel like the mten4 that tends to take road imperfections the harshest. Basically, the pedals that originally come with the mten4 are crap and need to be improved grip-wise. More grip makes a big difference when comparing to the OG mten4 pedals

Edited December 5, 2023 by BKW

[alcatraz]

Ok, I see. The originals are awful. Fair enough.

Here's a tip. Older grip tape pedals cost nearly nothing ranging from free to 15 usd used. Some are large even, like the Nikola pedals.

It's not too tricky to swap griptape and even add studs.

[Hellkitten]

@BKW I’ve been contemplating swapping the stock pedals on mine, but I like the extremely tight turning radius that the small ones allow for. Do you loose much of that with larger pedals?

[BKW]

13 minutes ago, Hellkitten said:

@BKW I’ve been contemplating swapping the stock pedals on mine, but I like the extremely tight turning radius that the small ones allow for. Do you loose much of that with larger pedals?

I haven't rode the mten4 too much since I swapped the pedals, but so far I have not noticed an issue in the turning radius. The width is about the same as the OG mten4 pedals, but only slightly longer.

I went with the black friday deal on alien rides and bought the acrylic spiked pedals for $100. I'm not being biased when I say it makes a world of difference. I didn't necessarily enjoy riding the mten4 as much as I do now, because before I always felt like one bump or slip or whatever would slide my feet off, but with the spiked pedals on it those concerns are taken away and I have much more confidence riding as well as control, making it funner overall because I can focus on riding and not worrying about slipping/jolting off the pedals. Highly recommended.

The only way I was able to gain some grip on the OG mten4 pedals was by tilting the pedals to slant them more upward, but still not ideal as the spiked pedals. Also, the size of the spiked pedals compared to the OG mten4 pedals give me more confidence as well.

[BKW]

33 minutes ago, alcatraz said:

Ok, I see. The originals are awful. Fair enough.

Here's a tip. Older grip tape pedals cost nearly nothing ranging from free to 15 usd used. Some are large even, like the Nikola pedals.

It's not too tricky to swap griptape and even add studs.

I actually have some grip tape pedals from a couple of my other EUCs. I just went with the spiked because I know they are good, the acrylic pedals are lighter than other spiked pedals, and I bought them at a discount on black friday for $100 new from alien rides. Also, I know they have the tilt adjustment screws like the OG mten4 pedals did, which I found important to use on the mten4.

[Hellkitten]

@BKW do you have any pads on your m10? I added some Kai pads to mine, mostly to keep me on the pedals, but also for light jumping. I drop curbs and do small hops with it while doing urban riding and they make a world of difference too. 

[BKW]

28 minutes ago, Hellkitten said:

@BKW do you have any pads on your m10? I added some Kai pads to mine, mostly to keep me on the pedals, but also for light jumping. I drop curbs and do small hops with it while doing urban riding and they make a world of difference too. 

I have the small v12 pads on mine. I haven't had them on long, but they are kind of useless for me since I can torque the wheel easily without them. I can see how they are useful when jumping, which I don't really do on the mten4 in NYC. I think maybe the pads might have been useful with the OG pedals because they made me feel more secure when on the slippery pedals. While I've only briefly ridden the spiked pedals today, I don't feel the need for the pads since my feet feel secure now

Edited December 6, 2023 by BKW

[Lillerskates]

my m4 would keep loosening at the axle bolt at the middle bottom of foot plates the ones sticking out at the lowest point on either side so I'd have to tighten them once awhile with Allen wrench but was worried it was going to be overly tight because i had to Really tighten it hard to get it to stay otherwise it would i think as you describe? chug back and forth increasing over time

after changing tire and putting plates back idk maybe i did something wrong because it was coming loose quick but i thought it'd last the ride then the entire axle rod snapped at the foot plates

trying to fashion footplates with a bar clamp and locking pliers almost worked until they slipped and severed the cables coming out of the wheel axle on that same side

of course hasn't turned on since and i don't think neltrek email is up anymore so I'll probably just have to parts it out or something like that ;/ really liked it until that point! 

mten3 doesn't have failsafe to prevent overworking in case of something stuck stopping spin, and will try to turn until eventually frying MOSFETs(?) is that common to most wheels controls? so mud stuck in wheel will destroy and require new controller is that right? i thought there was an 80 percent strain alarm and enough sense to not burn itself out instead of just mph limiter on these controllers

[deanok]

After replacing stock bearings with SKF and stock tire with Italian PMT I’ve felt like my mten4 became a different  and much better wheel ))