qluv Posted October 16, 2023 Author Share Posted October 16, 2023 Ok thanks that makes sense. It just seemed a lot more excessive to me especially for a new wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 You are right to question it, as we all did when our replacement boards started showing that behaviour ! The answer to your question' How will I know it won't cut out on me again?' is 'You don't, so gear up properly so you don't constantly fear it happening !' If your cut-out was one of those rare moments of 'quantum weirdness' where you never find out what the cause was it is difficult to learn to trust the wheel again, but if you are geared up you can at least put the riding time in rebuilding that trust without too much fear of consequences. My old MSuper3 dropped me for no appreciable reason at some point in year 2, but I investigated, never found the cause, and continued riding anyway (geared up) to find that it wouldn't error again until 3 years later, and that crash had an unrelated, identifiable cause. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 45 minutes ago, qluv said: Do I have to turn it on while charging because it won't turn on. Those packs are "half-packs", each with only 16 cells in series. You need the correct two packs connected, to result in the full 32 cells. It should power on... but only if the correct two packs are present. I thought the right answer was "front packs only"... So if it didn't power on with both front packs connected, no harm, try the other way: Disconnect all packs at the charging board. Connect both left-side packs. Power-on the EUC. If successful, start charging, and monitor app-reported voltage while charging. After charging stops, if the packs reached >132V, disconnect all packs, then connect both right-side packs, and repeat the process. Take care never to connect all 4 packs until they've been made an equal voltage. If one pair did not fully recharge, you must not join it to the other. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 On the subject of "how can I trust the wheel?" I've got this. One way to possibly avoid another cutout, is to ramp up your power output incrementally over a bit of time. 50% safety margin, then 45, then 40... etc, by using alarms. It's not 100% guaranteed to catch an error but if there's a line somewhere you don't want to cross with an incremental alarm there's a chance you'll just graze it and get a warning instead of a total system shutdown. OR gear up and do some crazy riding on grass or something. For this we try to deliberately reach 0% safety margin. If the wheel still works fine then that's a good start. You won't know for sure though until you've put a decent amount of miles on it without issues. That's where I'm at with my wheels. When I haven't dropped the wheel and ridden 10.000km I feel like I can go to DEFCON 5 (lowest readyness). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qluv Posted October 17, 2023 Author Share Posted October 17, 2023 (edited) That's good to know. Thanks for all the information. I have learnt a lot.... ****UPDATE **** So I tried everything and nothing worked. Eventually I switched the rear left battery with the front right battery. I didn't think the would be a problem. It started charging fine like it's been doing all the time and 3 mins later it started beeping loud while tilting more backwards. I immediately unplugged it and turned it off. A few minutes later I turned it on without plugging it. Then same thing happened again. I unplugged it and switched the batteries back to the original place. **Before doing all those procedures i had measured the voltage across and I got 66.2 on the right and 62.3 on the left side. I then put the batteries back again and charged them. This time around it stayed at 80% for a while and then 90% and finally 100%. So it worked :)... Not sure why it never shows the other numbers in between and only shows increments of 10% The only difference I noticed though out all this was the Cell equal below Mos switch was off on LF and LB. And now it's all on Edited October 17, 2023 by qluv 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 Great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted October 17, 2023 Share Posted October 17, 2023 11 hours ago, qluv said: I switched the rear left battery with the front right battery. It started charging fine 3 mins later it started beeping loud while tilting For posterity, please confirm: At which positions did you connect two packs, when recharging started? (Beep & tilt is likely notification that there was no communication with the two packs you removed, sounds ok.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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