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Kingsong ks 16a doesn't want to charge after 57.81 V


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Be careful riding that wheel because every time you brake you could be charging dead cells.

Is the correct end voltage 67.2v? I'm not familiar with this wheel.

If you're diy then check the charger output voltage. If that checks out then you have to check the pack. First on the output to verify your voltage is correct, and then with the heatshrink removed, on each individual cell group. Any group below 2.5v is considered damaged and shouldn't be recharged. Some crazies have done it anyway but then you should never keep your wheel indoors. Swap the cells for a chance of a proper solution.

It is possible the bms is malfunctioning and that would mean swapping cells won't be enough. Bms testing is a separate question. "How can I be sure before I order replacement cells?"

There's also a problem of swapping individual cells even with the same model. They won't be matched anymore, even if perfectly functional. This will put pressure on the bms. Often it can't keep a pack like that balanced (even if bms is working normally) because original bms' are designed to work with matched cells only. (Over time you can't charge to 100%)

If you order used cells with the same measured impedance as your old cells you have a better chance of the pack remaining balanced. This requires an impedance meter.

Edited by alcatraz
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One fix that I think will become popular to rescue older wheels that can't be repaired the proper way (malfunctioning bms, isn't balancing cells but wheel turns on, not worth investing money to swap) is to order a cheap ETA3000 balancer and install it in parallell with the original bms. Swap the damaged cells only with the same model, or another with slightly greater capacity and current tolerance. Done. As long as that ETA3000 doesn't give up its ghost, you can keep on riding and should be able to charge to 95-100% reliably.

Edited by alcatraz
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