BKW Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 I hear a grinding/rubbing sound from my Sherman Max a while ago so I take off the wheel to change the bearings and this is what I see on the motor sides (see pictures). You'll notice one side of the motor is rubbing more than the other. What causes this? The shelling of the body is messed up? Axle? Anyone else get this? RIGHT SIDE: LEFT SIDE: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punxatawneyjoe Posted June 13, 2023 Share Posted June 13, 2023 Looks like the axle has a ton of end play between the motor covers. Had a similar problem with my v13. In my case the wheel was walking back and forth rubbing the side rails. Lay it on it's side and push down on the wheel see if there is play then flip it over and do the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted June 13, 2023 Author Share Posted June 13, 2023 5 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said: Looks like the axle has a ton of end play between the motor covers. Had a similar problem with my v13. In my case the wheel was walking back and forth rubbing the side rails. Lay it on it's side and push down on the wheel see if there is play then flip it over and do the same. I'm not sure what you mean by "end play", but I'll do what you suggested and report back soon. Btw, the axle seemed fine when I took over the motor covers. Anyone else have any other possible ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted June 24, 2023 Author Share Posted June 24, 2023 (edited) Update: I was stalled removing the old bearings from the axle, as they were stuck and I needed a gear puller to take them off. I had to order a gear puller to take off the old bearings, so waited on shipping for those. I replaced the bearings with new bearings. To my surprise the old bearings with ~9.5K miles on them didn't seem that bad, but I replaced them anyway. During reassembly of the wheel I noticed the inner shell of the Sherman Max was cracked pretty bad causing the body to flex a bit, which might have caused it to rub on the motor walls. After replacing the bearings, there are two likely culprits to what is causing the motor to scrape against the inner shell: The shells being cracked and needing to be replaced to reduce flex The front roll cage needs to be bent outward more, as it might be causing the shell to pull inward on one side due to the bars being warped, especially now the shelling is cracked I honestly think it is likely the 2nd reason: the roll cage needs to be bent outward. I say this because putting on the side panels is difficult because I have to forcefully pull on the front roll cage to one side to get the plastic parts of the outer shell to clamp over the bar. BEFORE I put the roll bars on, the wheel spun freely not scraping the sides, but after I installed the roll bars the wheel scraped the sides. I also noticed that before I put the roll bars on, the gaps between either side of the wheel and the inner shell are equal, but after I put the roll bars on, the gaps became uneven and pulled in very close to one side. It's likely a combination of the roll bar and the cracked inner shells, but I really think if I simply bent the bars outward more the motor would not scrap the shell. I'm too tired to do this at the moment, but I will attempt to bend the roll bars in the future and I'll leave an update. Edited June 26, 2023 by BKW 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted June 26, 2023 Author Share Posted June 26, 2023 (edited) Update #2 (found the issue and hopeful solution): I managed to take off the front bar and it was indeed bent and pulling the right side of the cracked shell toward the motor. Since the shell is cracked in a part, it is bending easier, and the combination of the bent front bar and the cracked shell makes the shell that much easier to get pulled into the motor causing the scrapes on the motor. I bent the front bar arms more outward away from each other and reinstalled them on the Sherman. After screwing the outer shell over the batteries to the inner shell, and the plastic hooks over the front bar, it seemed to pull the inner shell to where the bars are newly frayed outward, giving a good amount of clearance from the motor plates (before the right side was very close to the wheel and motor, but now a good distance away). I took a quick look at the back roll bar and the space it had from the tire to the inner shell. The right shell is close to the wheel, so I will likely need to bend the back roll bar further apart as I did the front bar to give clearance. These bars are likely bent because I crashed my EUC hard a few times in the past and the roll bars took a lot of the force upon impact. I guess I could buy new inner shells because they are cracked in a couple places but the issue rubbing against the motor is mostly due to the bent bars pulling the shell to the motor (I'm also cheap, don't want to spend nearly 200 dollars for inner shells, and so will likely seal the cracks with a compound). For now, I'll just keep the bars bent outward and see if in time I will get more rubs to the motor covers, but the bars are strong and they feel like they force the shell outwards, so this is good. Edited June 26, 2023 by BKW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted June 26, 2023 Share Posted June 26, 2023 It's tricky to fix shells to strengthen them sideways wise. If I had some sheetmetal I'd cut some and screw/glue over the cracked area. But usually it's around the pedal arm area and that's where there aren't many flat surfaces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted June 26, 2023 Author Share Posted June 26, 2023 (edited) 5 hours ago, alcatraz said: It's tricky to fix shells to strengthen them sideways wise. If I had some sheetmetal I'd cut some and screw/glue over the cracked area. But usually it's around the pedal arm area and that's where there aren't many flat surfaces. Yeah that's exactly where the cracked part is, around the pedal arm area. I'll likely just use silicon to patch it up for now Edited June 26, 2023 by BKW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhoolvisko Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Just finish job of swapping axle on Sherman og. and now I have a different problem. When i close the motor with plates and try to turn rotor I hear grinding on magnets for half turn. I opened the motor again and find out that stator is delaminating on few places and it's scraping on magnets. I think that motor cover plates don't center stator the right way so one side of motor is leaning on magnets. Did anyone had that problem? Please help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhoolvisko Posted March 23 Share Posted March 23 On 6/13/2023 at 2:32 AM, BKW said: I hear a grinding/rubbing sound from my Sherman Max a while ago so I take off the wheel to change the bearings and this is what I see on the motor sides (see pictures). You'll notice one side of the motor is rubbing more than the other. What causes this? The shelling of the body is messed up? Axle? Anyone else get this? RIGHT SIDE: LEFT SIDE: I have the same problem. Motor is scratching on magnets when all is bolts are tightened. Yesterday I manage to fit them and wheel was working fine but I had to open again and now same problem but ofcourse can't fix it. Could be covers are worn too much since the wheel has 70 000 km and don't center motor... When mounting plates at bearing I dont have resistance like before and plates are very easy to take off. Should I insert something like tape or paper to get old radius or any other idea... Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted March 24 Author Share Posted March 24 9 hours ago, vanhoolvisko said: I have the same problem. Motor is scratching on magnets when all is bolts are tightened. Yesterday I manage to fit them and wheel was working fine but I had to open again and now same problem but ofcourse can't fix it. Could be covers are worn too much since the wheel has 70 000 km and don't center motor... When mounting plates at bearing I dont have resistance like before and plates are very easy to take off. Should I insert something like tape or paper to get old radius or any other idea... Thanks! The reason my Sherman Max was rubbing was because cracked inner shell. Once I replaced the inner shell it was fine again. Not really sure what you mean by loose cover plates but I'm assuming it's because you broke the seal when taking them off. You need to add waterproof sealant when applying the motor covers back on, which also protects from water ingress into the motor -- hopefully this is solve the loose issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhoolvisko Posted March 24 Share Posted March 24 Thanks man but seal is not a problem... Maybe miles and years. I will figure it out and post a solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhoolvisko Posted April 6 Share Posted April 6 On 3/23/2024 at 9:41 PM, vanhoolvisko said: I have the same problem. Motor is scratching on magnets when all is bolts are tightened. Yesterday I manage to fit them and wheel was working fine but I had to open again and now same problem but ofcourse can't fix it. Could be covers are worn too much since the wheel has 70 000 km and don't center motor... When mounting plates at bearing I dont have resistance like before and plates are very easy to take off. Should I insert something like tape or paper to get old radius or any other idea... Thanks! I found out what the problem is. Unfortunately that guy who didy axle swap, he didn't do good job and he pressed too hard with press and he mess my stator. That scratching was coming from deformed stator. So I took marker and while spinning the wheel I hold marker in one place so I touched on stator where is off center. After that I Dremel all those spots out. It was a hard 2 day work but now my wheel is spinning fine and I manage to put it together. So I took the wheel for a spin and worked fine for a while but after a few kilometers I started to hear clacks every time I was changing direction of driving ... Forward - backward or when jerk the wheel harder and it was louder and louder ... So ofcourse next day I again open my wheel since I hoped that I didn't tight enough those 2 big screws on pedal hangers. Unfortunately it wasn't the case since after tightening those screwa didn't help and I still hear clacks when changing directions. I hope that washer in ball bearing cover hole will help but IAM very suspicious that the real problem is loosen axle since that guy didn't know what he was doing and I think I will have to weld it on stator I will keep you updated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhoolvisko Posted April 6 Share Posted April 6 On 3/24/2024 at 7:21 AM, BKW said: The reason my Sherman Max was rubbing was because cracked inner shell. Once I replaced the inner shell it was fine again. Not really sure what you mean by loose cover plates but I'm assuming it's because you broke the seal when taking them off. You need to add waterproof sealant when applying the motor covers back on, which also protects from water ingress into the motor -- hopefully this is solve the loose issue. So how did you fix this inner she'll? You bought new one? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BKW Posted April 8 Author Share Posted April 8 On 4/6/2024 at 5:08 AM, vanhoolvisko said: So how did you fix this inner she'll? You bought new one? Thanks! Yup. Bought a new one. The old was was too damaged, which caused the issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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