Asurbakt1 Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 (edited) I've just replaced my InMotion tube and tyre, which I have done several times in the past before without any issue. After re-assembling all the components (including all the cables) back to normal, I couldn't switch on the Inmotion v8 anymore. I couldn't even charge it (there are no indication at all from the battery bars). How do I know if the problem is the board or the battery? Edited September 13, 2021 by Asurbakt1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Asurbakt1 said: How do I know if the problem is the board or the battery? I'd guess it's a forgotten, badly connected or pinched wire/connector?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 13, 2021 Author Share Posted September 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Chriull said: I'd guess it's a forgotten, badly connected or pinched wire/connector?! Ah I see. Is there a way to find out? And what do I do if it's pinched wire/connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted September 13, 2021 Share Posted September 13, 2021 2 hours ago, Asurbakt1 said: Ah I see. Is there a way to find out? Open it again and make a visual inspection. 2 hours ago, Asurbakt1 said: And what do I do if it's pinched wire/connector? A pinched wire has to be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Did you forget to connect the battery by both of its cables? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snakedoc6 Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Try to connect the wheel to the INMOTION app and run a diagnostic test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 23, 2021 Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 On 9/17/2021 at 11:31 PM, alcatraz said: Did you forget to connect the battery by both of its cables? did both On 9/18/2021 at 11:47 AM, Snakedoc6 said: Try to connect the wheel to the INMOTION app and run a diagnostic test It can't turn on though, the battery indicator is off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 23, 2021 Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 (edited) Tried to re-connect again, the light in the board does turn on but only intermittently Edited September 23, 2021 by Asurbakt1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 On 9/23/2021 at 5:37 PM, Asurbakt1 said: Tried to re-connect again, the light in the board does turn on but only intermittently Just curious if anybody have any idea what the problem is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 I know this is unlikely the case (longshot) but I just had my old trusty V8 act all dead on me. I measured the battery cell voltages and I had a low cell group below 3V. I charged it up over 3V and the wheel is now all normal again. So if the battery doesn't like its values then the wheel will act all dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Oh I forgot to say that sometimes I need to push the power button several times for the wheel to turn on. I just see the battery indicator flash (empty). I never had to press more than 5 times to turn on the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 Ah I see, what's the normal cell voltage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 (edited) Between 4.25v and 3.0v. The reason why it's unlikely to be this is that you said you just changed a tire. If the battery hasn't corroded or been in storage for a long time, then it's unlikely to have failed while you fixed the tire. I'm thinking it's just a glitch. Just keep it disconnected for a while, and try again. Remember to try and turn on the wheel several times. It might not react the first time. Edited September 26, 2021 by alcatraz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 On 9/26/2021 at 12:42 PM, alcatraz said: I know this is unlikely the case (longshot) but I just had my old trusty V8 act all dead on me. I measured the battery cell voltages and I had a low cell group below 3V. I charged it up over 3V and the wheel is now all normal again. So if the battery doesn't like its values then the wheel will act all dead. On 9/26/2021 at 1:55 PM, alcatraz said: Between 4.25v and 3.0v. The reason why it's unlikely to be this is that you said you just changed a tire. If the battery hasn't corroded or been in storage for a long time, then it's unlikely to have failed while you fixed the tire. I'm thinking it's just a glitch. Just keep it disconnected for a while, and try again. Remember to try and turn on the wheel several times. It might not react the first time. Thanks very much for your response, I appreciate it, I'll see if I can figure it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asurbakt1 Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) Is this normal when the light blinks and glitches every 5-6 seconds with that brief glitching sound (as can be seen in this video)? All the green lights are switched off after 5-10 seconds when I press and hold the button and/or connect the charger Also checked the battery voltage in the multimeter it's 18 Volt <-- is this okay? Edited September 27, 2021 by Asurbakt1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) If I remember correctly (I may very well be wrong), the battery voltage can't be measured on the battery output terminal. I think it's possible to measure it somewhere on the control board but the wheel may need to be turned on first. I don't have experience of failsearching the V8 but I have opened up the battery and it was a very easy task. It's easy to put it pack together afterwards (minus the shrinkwrap) and use it. So if you think the problem could lie with the battery, then I recommend you to just open it. It's super easy. It's super well protected even without the outer shell. When you lift the tape off the balance wire terminals on the side of the bms, from there you can measure all the cell groups. If they're all between 3-4.2v then the battery should be accepted. I do want to stress that it's unlikely to be the battery if you only replaced the tire. I can only say that the symptoms do resemble the low voltage problem I just had. Edited September 27, 2021 by alcatraz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 The only advice I have opening the battery is to be careful with the output cable outer casing. It's soft and rubbery so when you try to wiggle it out of its hole in the case, if you aren't careful, you can strip the casing = very bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 4 minutes ago, alcatraz said: I don't have experience of failsearching the V8 but I have opened up the battery and it was a very easy task. It's easy to put it pack together afterwards (minus the shrinkwrap) and use it. Imho messing with the battery should preferably done by experienced ones. And if possible only as very last measure - if one is sure it's the battery and one does not replace it anyhow... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 (edited) Yeah, absolutely. I was referring to the V8 specifically. It doesn't rely on the shrinkwrap to isolate most of its sensitive terminals, like most other brands. A V8 battery without the shrinkwrap still has like 99% of its protection to the outside. Edited September 27, 2021 by alcatraz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 4 hours ago, Asurbakt1 said: Is this normal when the light blinks and glitches every 5-6 seconds with that brief glitching sound (as can be seen in this video)? All the green lights are switched off after 5-10 seconds when I press and hold the button and/or connect the charger Also checked the battery voltage in the multimeter it's 18 Volt <-- is this okay? Another idea before you do anything else is to inspect the two cables going to the battery. They are hard to separate. Sometimes if you pull the wrong way something gets damaged. Check for bent pins, stripped cables etc. Anything that looks odd. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.