fbhb Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) My control board replacement is due to my original Leaperkim Veteran-450 5A charger going pop when a component and fuse inside fried and burnt, also taking out the Sherman’s control board’s charging circuit, after Only 4 days use! I have had to wait 2 months for a replacement of both the control board and another 5A charger to arrive on the “Slow Boat from China”. More details can be found regarding the charger failure HERE It may be common knowledge to most that due to the way the board is mounted to the heatsink, the whole control board assembly will not come out of the bay without either splitting the wheel or dismantling just the board from the heatsink!? I was able to make a small mod to the Sherman’s control board bay to allow the board’s easy removal/fitting should I ever need to remove it again in future. Disclaimer: Should you Not wish to alter your Sherman structurally, then it is still possible to remove the control board without a Full strip down of the wheel (you can remove just the board and thermal pad etc. from the heatsink). The small amount of plastic removed in this mod Does Not weaken the Sherman’s structure in any way, but you do so at your own risk! My preference was to keep the complete assembly intact and install it as it arrived to me, especially with the New control board being supplied to me as a warranty item! The New control board is an updated version, having the transformer situated on its own separate board and the version number is later than the L20-34 of my original with version number L20-42 for this one Old Control Board is at the Top L20-34. New Control Board is at the Bottom L20-42 To carry out this mod, you will only need to carefully remove a 7mm wide strip of plastic at each end of the Sherman’s control board bay where the headlight and taillight cables are situated. This will then allow the complete control board assembly to easily be removed, after also removing the trolley handle tubes. So to begin with once the batteries etc. have been disconnected and the capacitors drained of All charge, a template replicating the amount of material to be removed needs to be made. I used some 1.5mm clear plastic I had lying around, but any thickness of plastic that is easy enough to work with will suffice. Next this needs to be cut into a 7mm wide strip and then carefully shaped to fit along the edge of the pocket the control board fits into. Disconnect batteries, drain capacitors of charge and label motor cables. Make sure the area is completely safe to work in! Plastic cutting guide template accurately shaped and fitted in place next to the cable I used some double sided tape to hold it securely in place, so that I could score a cut line along the edge of the plastic template into the body of the Sherman, next to one of the light’s cables. This will take some time to work your way through the wall’s thickness with a box cutter blade or scalpel so some care and patience is required. Once the vertical cut is made, remove the template then the top edge can be cut to meet it along with the bottom edge and the piece of waste material can be removed. Once one end is completed then just repeat the whole process at the other end of the control board bay, on the side where the cable prevents removal of the board. Now with everything already disconnected, made safe electrically and with the trolley handle tubes removed, the control board can be lifted up and out without the cables for the lights and the tight fitting cavity preventing access to do so! Headlight cable cut out completed Taillight cable cut out completed Control board bay (Headlight end) Control board bay (Taillight end) Control board reinstall (Headlight recess) Control board reinstall (Taillight recess) Control board reinstall cables reconnected and trolley handle tubes reinstalled (Headlight recess) Control board reinstall cables reconnected and trolley handle tubes reinstalled (Taillight recess) All completed and ready to test out the New control board! Edited January 31, 2021 by fbhb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
null Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Thanks a lot for sharing, this should be usefull for a lot of people. The pictures aren’t loading right now, but as soon as I’ll go through in preparation for my new board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 41 minutes ago, null said: Thanks a lot for sharing, this should be usefull for a lot of people. The pictures aren’t loading right now, but as soon as I’ll go through in preparation for my new board. Yes, I'm aware about the photos and will get it sorted in due course (they are Only showing for me in this and my other posts too, unfortunately! Cheers) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finn Bjerke Posted May 1, 2022 Share Posted May 1, 2022 I could seperate old control board from heat sink so its easy to take the conmtrol bpoard out - but the new one I can not - lossend all screws but fopr some strange reason its still not possible to seperate control board from the heat sink........ Is there something I have not understood here ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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