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My S18 isn't charging...


Whalesmash

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Hi,
it isn’t resolved yet. Still waiting for an answer from the customer support from Voltride.com. I am nearly close to just buy a new motherboard on my own…I will let you know once I have some news…

Edited by Fahrtwind
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2 hours ago, Fahrtwind said:

Hi,
it isn’t resolved yet. Still waiting for an answer from the customer support from Voltride.eu. I am nearly close to just buy a new motherboard on my own…I will let you know once I have some news…

Thank you for your kind reply. Hopefully your issue gets resolved soon.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/10/2022 at 12:09 PM, Fahrtwind said:

So, still no response from Voltride.com - they seem to be quite busy. Nice weather outside, but I can´t drive...:( @Purplecycledid you contact your reseller? Where did you buy it?

Is your S18 batch 1?

Check out this post I found on FB. Seems like other people are having the same issue and, according to the post, some of the batteries may have become disconnected (vertical alignment within the packs + vibrations).

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No, it was made in May 2021. The packs are fine, I measured the voltages. And you can check them one by one connected to the motherboard if one of them is faulty. Meanwhile Voltride agreed to send them the Motherboard, it will arrive today. Hopefully they send the replacement board quickly

Edited by Fahrtwind
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Quick update. Voltride checked the motherboard, they found the same non charging behavior. I get a new board under warranty. 

Edited by Fahrtwind
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
On 4/30/2022 at 12:42 PM, enaon said:


In any case, try the following. Remove one the front ones one by one and check if charging continues. If yes, measure the sub voltage on this pack, if under 12 volts, the pack is bad. 

if you have only the two back ones in, and nothing happens when you plug the charger (normally it should strobe the lights) then either a board or one of the back packs bms.

Hello,

I have a problem of a blinking charger red/green. I tried removing both front packs :

- with both front packs removed, charging OK

- with only Front Left pack disconnected, charging OK

- with only Front Right pack disconnected, charger blinks red/green.

I checked the main voltage on each pack, the front left was showing 500mV under, so i left it ON a few minutes with the charger blinking. It gained like 400mV...  I plugged the other pack and it charged normally (charger red) until 82V and then it started blinking again.

I have not tested the "sub voltage" : what exactly is this ?

 

I am hopping it is a motherboard issue since my shop says it only covers 1 year battery warranty (which I think is against the law in France, every product sold should be covered by a 2 year warranty under normal use)

Edited by w00loo
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3 hours ago, w00loo said:

Hello,

I have a problem of a blinking charger red/green. I tried removing both front packs :

- with both front packs removed, charging OK

- with only Front Left pack disconnected, charging OK

- with only Front Right pack disconnected, charger blinks red/green.

I checked the main voltage on each pack, the front left was showing 500mV under, so i left it ON a few minutes with the charger blinking. It gained like 400mV...  I plugged the other pack and it charged normally (charger red) until 82V and then it started blinking again.

I have not tested the "sub voltage" : what exactly is this ?

 

I am hopping it is a motherboard issue since my shop says it only covers 1 year battery warranty (which I think is against the law in France, every product sold should be covered by a 2 year warranty under normal use)

This behaviour corresponds to a bad cell in the front left pack.

Most of the times is just a cell that gets loose because of vibrations. Easy to fix with a spot welder.20220326_194542.thumb.jpg.53aa3307b35a757202fc88f5f117d0f3.jpg

Once you have you battery opened, It's a good idea to glue all the cells together to avoid vibrations.

 

 

 

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thanks for your reply !  I need my wheel for work so I have ordered another one express, and will start looking inside the battery as soon as I have the other one, and skip the servicing from the shop... Where can I find a guide on how to open the battery pack ?

Arnaud

Edited by w00loo
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5 minutes ago, w00loo said:

thanks for your reply !  I need my wheel for work so I have ordered another one express, and will start looking inside the battery as soon as I have the other one, and skip the servicing from the shop... Where can I find a guide on how to open the battery pack ?

Arnaud

Spot welder is mandatory, but if you have one it can take you 1 hour to repair it (2 hours of you take your time).

Here the cells glued together to avoid vibrations in the future.

20220329_214649.thumb.jpg.bbf8cd24c6f0325861560a79babdce22.jpg

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Hello,

I have just opened the battery pack but did not see anything wrong... Also all cells are perfectly at 4.0V ... I guess if there was one with a loose connection there would be one with a different reading.

Then I plugged the batter pack to the other side, and it is still failing to charge, so there is definitly something wrong with that battery pack, but what? 

What is your opinion ? 

Thanks in advance

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9 hours ago, w00loo said:

Hello,

I have just opened the battery pack but did not see anything wrong... Also all cells are perfectly at 4.0V ... I guess if there was one with a loose connection there would be one with a different reading.

Then I plugged the batter pack to the other side, and it is still failing to charge, so there is definitly something wrong with that battery pack, but what? 

What is your opinion ? 

Thanks in advance

Where are you checking voltage of each cell? There's an special place for this with 21 pins (easy to see). If you check in the cell, probably are all ok and the fail is in the nickel stripe.

Also be aware if there's a broken nickel stripe is very easy it makes contact when you press on it to check and have a false positive. 

In my case, just a small pressure on the PCB made it reconnect the cell and it loses again when releasing.

If there is 4v on each cell, there should be 80v in the pack. Is one cell is loose, it should mark 76v.

 

Check my picture, it was just a very small crack in the nickel stripe I didn't see at first.

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thanks for your reply. Yes i am checking each cell at the right place. 4.0V each, 80V total..  No problem here, i tried many times, even tried mesuring at the connector while shaking the battery like a mad man and it never went down to 76V.

I managed to check the "signaletic tension" ( in the small pins of the connector ) . It shows 11.84V. The other packs shows 11.82V... Not sure what it means really, I really don't know what to do from here, it really looks like a good old reset of BMS / Motherboard could help :D I hope kingsong can help

Edited by w00loo
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5 hours ago, w00loo said:

It shows 11.84V. The other packs shows 11.82V... Not sure what it means really, I really don't know what to do from here, it really looks like a good old reset of BMS / Motherboard could help :D I hope kingsong can help

I'm pretty sure 11.84V on the 'battery health' contacts is good, when it's not good it measures something like 5V. That's from memory though, someone that knows the actual meaning of those contacts and their voltages should verify!

But I'd start pestering your reseller to see what they think especially since the batteries all seem to be ok.

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16 hours ago, w00loo said:

thanks for your reply. Yes i am checking each cell at the right place. 4.0V each, 80V total..  No problem here, i tried many times, even tried mesuring at the connector while shaking the battery like a mad man and it never went down to 76V.

I managed to check the "signaletic tension" ( in the small pins of the connector ) . It shows 11.84V. The other packs shows 11.82V... Not sure what it means really, I really don't know what to do from here, it really looks like a good old reset of BMS / Motherboard could help :D I hope kingsong can help

Although the small pins readings look ok, 

Have you try not connecting the "bad" battery completely? I mean not inserting the connector up to the end. This avoid connecting the small pins and bypassing them to the main board.

Usually, if you have a bad cell and do that, it begins to charge normally. 

Not a good idea to leave it this way, because battery BMS is saying something is wrong and you're ignoring it. Just to check.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 20/7/2022 at 17:11, Tawpie said:

Estoy bastante seguro de que 11,84 V en los contactos de "estado de la batería" es bueno, cuando no es bueno, mide algo así como 5 V. Sin embargo, eso es de memoria, ¡alguien que conozca el significado real de esos contactos y sus voltajes debería verificarlo!

Pero empezaría a molestar a su revendedor para ver qué piensa, especialmente porque todas las baterías parecen estar bien.

In the BMS, the thin pins of color green and blue in the connector must have 11.8V for the wheel to allow 
charging. When there is a battery that charges before the others, the voltage in the green with respect to 
the blue becomes zero and in all the bms it becomes the prohibition of charging.
 That's why when disconnecting the BMS with the problem, the wheel it works again.
Nevertheless in the first series of the S18, the BMS boards when the batteries age break the integrated 
circuits that monitor the batteries and that triggers the previous charging prohibition alarm and is necesary 
to change the BMS and probably the bateries.
Edited by feguti
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