Kingsong 16x - play in wheel

[superox]

On the first ride of the spring, my 16x had developed some kind of a rubbing noise and slight wobble while riding. Once per wheel revolution. The (original) tire looks well centered and there should be enough clearance, so I didn't think that was it. Picking the thing up and freewheeling looked alright, no rubbing noise and the tire looked straight.

However, putting the EUC on the side, grabbing the wheel from the tire, and trying to yank it up and down (to the EUC's sides) felt solid from one angle, but with a noticeable play (a few mm) when turning the wheel and trying from another angle. That confirms I wasn't going crazy.

Now a question, how screwed am I? Could it be just a bad bearing or do I need a new axle (meaning motor)? On one hand, the wheel was running alright when freewheeled. On the other hand, there was no harsh knocking sound that would indicate a bearing problem, just as if something was rubbing against the tire or something. Haven't heard back from the shop yet..

Edited April 25 by superox

[Scubadragonsan]

2 hours ago, superox said:

with a noticeable play (a few mm) when turning the wheel and trying from another angle. That confirms I wasn't going crazy.

The first I'd do is take the wheel apart to see if you can find out the cause of this noticeable play. It can be some misaligned screw/bolt.

[Funky]

If it's cracked axle - it can be welded.. Same for those "dot" welds that hold axle in place.. Doesn't mean you need new motor right away. (OFC if you don't like fixing things and the time spent fixing it isn't worth to you - you can buy right-out new motor.)

You mean you got play when changing riding direction? Like who EUC body is moving? Example you are riding and start braking - you feel like euc falls to other side (backwards) about 5mm?

 

 

Try this: Place EUC on ground - power it on - try applying force at very front downwards (Like accelerating, but not letting the wheel move forwards.) Afterwards try the same, but at very back end.. Pushing back down like braking - Do that multiple times changing from front to back, back to front, see if there is play, like EUC body moving little bit.. (It would feel like EUC body is "slipping" over axle. Tire not moving, just upper EUC body moves little bit.)

FYI: You need to apply ALOT of force - same as you would be riding with your whole weight..

 

Video could tell a lot more about the issue.. Maybe film it while riding? Otherwise we can only guess.. It can be bearing.. Cracked inner shell one side not holding onto pedal "L" hangers anymore.. Bent axle..

Edited April 25 by Funky

[superox]

It was indeed a worn bearing. Had it swapped at the shop and even though the labor wasn't cheap, it's all good now.

[Funky]

1 hour ago, superox said:

It was indeed a worn bearing. Had it swapped at the shop and even though the labor wasn't cheap, it's all good now.

How much did you pay for ~3hour easy repair, that one could do it self? (I didn't need to change bearings, but when i was waterproofing my wheel - i just exchanged them for "better" bearings, which i cleaned out of original grease and added marine grease.. Figured i could exchange them, while i was in the motor.)

Edited May 15 by Funky

[atdlzpae]

On 5/15/2024 at 10:49 PM, Funky said:

~3hour easy repair

@Funky You're way more skilled than me. And I'm definitely more skilled than an average person. I see nothing wrong with delegating work to people with experience.
Especially when opening a wheel kinda means risking a 2kWh battery explosion if someone isn't careful.

[Funky]

5 hours ago, atdlzpae said:

@Funky You're way more skilled than me. And I'm definitely more skilled than an average person. I see nothing wrong with delegating work to people with experience.
Especially when opening a wheel kinda means risking a 2kWh battery explosion if someone isn't careful.

Why would anyone need to be skilled? You simply unscrew some screws and unplug some plugs.. Tricky part is getting the bearing out - i used home made tool for it.

Tool in question: (Copied from my post..)

I used this "Home made" tool for removing/installing bearing. Works like a charm. Simple 1 1/2 pipe, metal screw rod, 2 nuts, 2 bigger/smaller washers, 1 barrel(same width as bearing wall, as it will push against it.)

Simply screw the nuts and it will push in/out the bearing.

Tu push the bearing out use it this way:

Bearing going in the pipe:

To push the bearing in use this way:

Bearing set inside:

Funny thing - i needed to open my wheel the very first day i got it.. Not riding even once. 

Fan was rubbing.. And i didn't want to drive 30km to store and deal with them to get the unit exchanged. (Looking back i probably should had - because i needed to open it 3 times till i got it to stop rubbing. 3years later - everything still fine. And fan is working.)

[atdlzpae]

8 hours ago, Funky said:

i used home made tool for it

Exactly. That alone would take quite a lot of time.
I myself had to disassemble my wheel after 10k km. Which meant that pedals were "stuck". Trying to remove them failed, so I had to break the plastic shell itself to open the wheel.
Then removing that piece of metal that connects pedals to the motor... It was stuck as well, I had to buy a new wrench of a proper size to do it.
Then opening the motor itself. It was stuck as well, had to use a shit ton of force.

All in all maybe like 20 hours?

First day will definitely be way, way easier though. No stuck elements.

[Funky]

2 hours ago, atdlzpae said:

Exactly. That alone would take quite a lot of time.
I myself had to disassemble my wheel after 10k km. Which meant that pedals were "stuck". Trying to remove them failed, so I had to break the plastic shell itself to open the wheel.
Then removing that piece of metal that connects pedals to the motor... It was stuck as well, I had to buy a new wrench of a proper size to do it.
Then opening the motor itself. It was stuck as well, had to use a shit ton of force.

All in all maybe like 20 hours?

First day will definitely be way, way easier though. No stuck elements.

Stuck how? Okay i can see motor being stuck, as it had silicone around the bead.. I simply "hammered", "softly" a thin knife in slowly to pray open the silicone. (Don't hit the copper windings..) Boy.. Eat something. Get some milk.  

Tip to get waterproof seal and same time not stuck shut motor - apply thin layer of grease to one surface - motor or motor cover itself. (I recommend to motor.) As silicone will stick to only one surface (this case cover, you will apply silicone to cover) and it will be easy to open the motor next time, still having waterproof seal.  

Can say it works, as i needed to reopen the motor some year latter.. Because i needed to weld axle.  My heavy ass broke those two small dot welds that were keeping axle in place... Luckily it still had key grove, otherwise i had faceplanted and ripped off all the wires. I knew the welds were broken, because EUC body was moving little, little bit one way and other way when applied force like braking/accelerating. Also could feel it by hands - when applying force downwards at EUC front/back exchanging direction. Same as braking/accelerating.

That one was the most extreme work needed to be done.. Doh now instead of two small dot welds keeping the axle fixed - now i got welded it all around the axle. Good Luck breaking that weld.  

[atdlzpae]

On 5/17/2024 at 11:45 PM, Funky said:

Stuck how?

Can't take the rods out, even with a hammer. So I gave up on disassembling the pedals, they work (move up and down) just fine.

[Funky]

50 minutes ago, atdlzpae said:

Can't take the rods out, even with a hammer. So I gave up on disassembling the pedals, they work (move up and down) just fine.

They come out only one way.. (If i'm not mistaken, rod has one side thicker than other.. I put aftermarket pedals+hangers 3 years ago, so don't really remember.) Also apply WD-40 all around them (Also inside the screw/rod hole) - let them sit lil bit and hammer them out.

With enough strength - anything can be unstuck! Also with great strength comes great responsibility and possibilities of damage.  

[atdlzpae]

@Funky I'll think of options if I ever have to replace pedals because they are cracking or something.
Not before.