bri2010 Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 Hello and good day. i have had my inmotionv5 for around 3 years but of late not used for about a year as lock down and work commitments. Yesterday i pulled it out from the cupboard and dusted it down ready to charge it as i have some free time,but unfortunately it is completely dead.I have looked around and really cant work out what my best bet is to try and fix it from buying a new power supply to mother board to battery's. At the moment the power brick when plugged in gives a green light on it but as soon as i plug it into the ucl the green light goes off and i get nothing. thanks for any help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 Sounds like a bad charger. Do you know anyone near you riding an inmotion 84v? You could try theirs. If the battery has discharged past a point it usually won't charge the normal way anymore. Only by opening the wheel and measuring the pack, can you determine if it's safe to circumvent the protection circuits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bri2010 Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 Thanks for your rely ... I e ordered a new power pack so let's see if that's the issue... If not what is the method you described to by Pass the circuit protection if the batteries have ran flat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 On my V8 the wheel won't turn on if only two (a cell group) out of forty cells are below 3.0v. That's an undervoltage protection. Cell manufacturers specify that 2.5v is the minimum so if you'be got 2.50-2.99v there's zero danger in topping those cells back up. (you'd have to charge them manually) IF one group is lower than the rest then the question "why?" comes up. It shouldn't happen unless something isn't working properly. I bet people have rescued cells back from lower than 2.5v but even though you don't notice a problem, permanent damage has occurred and you probably shouldn't store the wheel in sensitive areas (for a while). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted July 15, 2022 Share Posted July 15, 2022 3 years doesn't mean a pack needs replacing. Some are perfectly fine after 5+ years and thousands of km/cycles. Some are trash after a few dozen cycles/weeks. You might put a worse pack into the wheel than you're taking out. Small chance of course, but not impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bri2010 Posted July 19, 2022 Author Share Posted July 19, 2022 Well I'll keep you updated on this fix... Iam reading 24v on a multi meter on the power supply so fingers crossed when the replacement charger comes that'll solve the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bri2010 Posted July 27, 2022 Author Share Posted July 27, 2022 On 7/15/2022 at 10:21 AM, alcatraz said: On my V8 the wheel won't turn on if only two (a cell group) out of forty cells are below 3.0v. That's an undervoltage protection. Cell manufacturers specify that 2.5v is the minimum so if you'be got 2.50-2.99v there's zero danger in topping those cells back up. (you'd have to charge them manually) IF one group is lower than the rest then the question "why?" comes up. It shouldn't happen unless something isn't working properly. I bet people have rescued cells back from lower than 2.5v but even though you don't notice a problem, permanent damage has occurred and you probably shouldn't store the wheel in sensitive areas (for a while). So new charger has come and still the same.. I guess because it sat for 12 months unsed the batteries have drained past a safe charge point... Unbelievable should be a big sticker to let people know to put in a charge every so often if not used . Don't think I have the skill to fix as I've seen a few videos.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 V8 packs are quite easy to take apart. There's the plastic enclosure. You unscrew the halves. Then pay attention to the cable exit hole. Break them free so they pass through. Then you take off the thin clear plastic foil. Then there's the heatshrink which you can take off. Just careful not to cut deep. Then you're left with the cells in their cell holders. On the top and bottom you have some sticky isolating paper. Notice which side the bms is on and lift about 1cm of the paper around the edge. That should expose all the measuring points. They're named B0-B19. Don't short circuit anything with your probes. Measure voltage between all of them. 20 measurements. You'll have at least one below 3.0v. By using a single cell charger you can bring the low groups back up over 3.0v and the wheel will power on again. (Don't charge if it's below 2.50v). You want the groups to be fairly equal so this could take a while to charge them back up. I don't know if taping the charger leads onto the solder joints is enough. Could be. You don't even need to heatshrink it up IMO because you've got the plastic enclosure. Here's a single cell charger: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 It costs like 80 cents including shipping in china and does 3A. If you use more than one make sure you don't run them from the same power supply. Separate power supplies like phone charger and power bank = ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil696 Posted July 29, 2022 Share Posted July 29, 2022 Hi i had the same problem in V5f, there is high propability that your battery pack can be repaired, you can charge cells with 1s charger but it's not good idea if whole battery pack have low voltage. First disassembly battery pack, just to do some measurements on cells, dont disconnect, desoldered anything just remove foil and you are ready to go. Measure voltage + and - on whole pack (not in bms output xt60 but on the soldered to BMS metal sheets from battery), and on all cells if one cell is drown 1S charger will be enaugh, but if whole pack is drowned 1S charger is useless in that case you need to use DC-DC stepup converter. Get DC-DC stepup converter with CC (constant current) and CV (constant voltage) something like this https://allegro.pl/oferta/1500-w-dc-dc-step-up-stale-napiecie-regulowane-12366253886 , i have https://allegro.pl/oferta/900w-dc-10-120v-boost-converter-step-up-regulator-12289700555?utm_feed=aa34192d-eee2-4419-9a9a-de66b9dfae24&utm_term=desc-yes and its even better than first cause you can see what you set before you connect output to battery pack. If one cell is drowned, just pullup to the rest, and if whole pack is discharged and voltage on separeated cells is the same (no need to be exacly the same but near by) charge whole pack with 60V and 500ma, chceck temperature on batteries and if any cell starts to get hot stop charge immediately. When pack gets 60v charge you can connect origianl power supply and continue charge. You can contact me on private and when i have free time i can guide you how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pictsidhe Posted May 29, 2023 Share Posted May 29, 2023 The reason that battery packs brick themselves is for safety. Over discharge of lithium cells can result in chemical cell damage. If that cell is then charged, there is a dramatically increased risk of spontaneous ignition. If you are still wondering what the problem is, google "lithium battery fire". YouTube results are the most fun. TLDR. Buy a new battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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