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Posted (edited)

So...i feel silly saying this but i cant get past 23-25 mph with the Sherman (i know its rider inexperience!

Hear me out. Im not a new rider but still a young rider (Since July of 2020). 

Since then Ive owned 4 EUC's and a master of none.

To solve that, i  sold my 16s (it was my training wheel after all, and compared to my other wheels it does not serve my purpose)

I sold my RS19 HS (because i bought the Sherman and need some money back anyway)

So now my Sherman is my main wheel and 16X my dedicated offroad/beater up wheel.

Im back to EUC training, with one wheel only on my mind to practice and master with!

I do not have many miles on the Sherman yet. It is heavy and not as nimble as the other wheels. 

I know practice makes perfect but i need advice!.............

How do i get this thing to go faster past 23-25mph? I feel that already, im going really fast and when i reach that 23-25mph its either i dont know what to do or what i need to do for this thing to pick up more speed past that. I try the torque it method, i try the carving  and torque to gain speed, pressing down on the pedals but i cant seem to get it to go any faster (up and down the street trying speed drills)

GIDDY UP HORSEY!

 Is the Sherman one of those wheels where it needs ample build up time to get faster compared to other wheels? 

People say keep riding, keep riding and i will of course. Just looking for advice, feedback, illustrations, videos or whatever. Thanks!

 

Edited by WILSON-YT
  • WILSONEUC changed the title to EUC struggles w/Sherman
Posted (edited)

try tilt settings. The sherman is slower to gain speed, but I think you just need to push a little more. I have my tilt at +1 and it sets me back just a hair, enabling me to get more while not being more in front of the wheel than I like.  Oddly, I find my acceleration style to be similar on the 18L and sherman. Neither blazes off the line, but more than enough. The sherm keeps pulling past 30mph tho and its torque doesnt diminish. I was hitting +30 on my first test ride on the sherm, so I don't really have much insight. I just hopped on and gave it hell.  I can see how you will easily reach comfort at speed that you can do on your 16. If all else fails and you are old enough, try a shot of whiskey or two, gear up and try again :). Fwiw, i find power pads to make it easier to push harder, but Its really not the defining thing that gets you your speed. A naked sherm goes just as fast.

Edited by ShanesPlanet
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, WILSON-YT said:

I do not have many miles on the Sherman yet. It is heavy and not as nimble as the other wheels.

If you don't let the wheel pivot independently of your legs by operating heels (and thus legs) away from the wheel body, then yes, you will always be limited by things like wheel weight, size, etc. This is common for the majority of riders who hug & tug their wheels (esp with pads), and thus keep their legs up against the wheel body, hence the wheel can only lean/pivot side-to-side as far as you the rider can pivot side-to-side without falling.

If you ride more with heels away from the wheel body (only needs one wide at-a-time, as the wheel body only dips in one direction at-a-time), then you turn the wheel + 2 pedals into a kid's play see-saw (each foot on one "see-saw seat" pedal side, with the fulcrum as the tire against the ground), and in a fulcrum'd see-saw, the actual weight of the see-saw itself (ie. the wheel pivoting independently of your body) matters least.

Stuff like heel-ing up the other non-dip-side foot, and allowing the wheel to dip to the ground (ie. not fighting it to stay upright), are important for this method.

 

1 hour ago, WILSON-YT said:

I know practice makes perfect but i need advice!.............

LOL practice makes perfect yes, but if you are practicing mistakes, then you are perfecting mistakes. 

 

1 hour ago, WILSON-YT said:

How do i get this thing to go faster past 23-25mph? I feel that already, im going really fast and then look at my speed readings and its like 23mph?!!! thats it!!!??? 

People say you have to super man lean, torque it but it doesnt want to giddy up . 

 Is the Sherman one of those wheels where it needs ample build up time to get faster compared to other wheels? 

You could go the pad + hard mode + hug & tug route, as that would probably be the fastest and easiest route, but you can probably tell from the above that I am not a fan of this.

Just from the visuals, anyone can tell that the full superman lean is fundamentally unsound, as this is inherently not a balanced stance, and any delta (cutout, unseen divot/surface) will drop you much faster and easier, as your balance is already compromised in full superman.

So instead, I advocate what I said before. The action is lifting one heel at-a-time, with the other heel landing on its pedal wide of the wheel body when the wheel body is dipping the farthest point to that side. The key is as you get comfortable doing so, to let the wheel dip sharper and sharper, with your body centered over it and not leaning over too much out of the center of gravity upright plane (what we call "stacked" in the ski world: net center of mass of rider+wheel centered).

The wheel angling is the key, because it puts the pedals in a non-flat, angled position, allowing you to get leverage on the wheel easier than would be on a typical upright wheel where the pedals are completely flat (one of the worst angles to get leverage on the pedals, hence all the pad solutions out there that shift the leverage to muscle-ing with your thighs). With the pedals angled like this, one of the pedals will stick up, which allows you to stomp down on that pedal for the accel force, which is much better because you are aided by your bodyweight and gravity, not having to muscle things as with pads and/or superman. This sticking up "accelerator" pedal foot will typically be more heel up the more the wheel body is leaning/dipping to the ground; while the other foot (wheel body lean-side) is heel down, ideally wide & away from the wheel body (to clear your leg from catching the wheel body and preventing the wheel to angle), and that leg is locked, all providing the leverage for you to be able to stomp with the other heel-up / pedal-up foot.

 

All this may be more than you were asking for LOL; definitely a time investment on the learning front. The general concept of operating the wheel lean, more on angles (ie the common recommendation to "always be carving") will definitely help gain leverage on the wheel for lean acceleration force.

An intermediary foot positioning method many guys use (and I used to use in my earlier EUC days) that is fairly easy to adopt, is splitting the feet: one foot more up on one pedal, one foot more back on the other. This achieves a similar result to the above, but has its flaws in that you will always have one dominant turn side, and that turning won't be as fluid as the ability to heel up with either foot, swing wide landing the heel down foot away from the wheel body, for better & sharper maneuverability.

 

Edited by houseofjob
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