MetricUSA Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 For anyone with the four led charge indicator, my idea is to change the four LEDs into a binary output comparitor. Instead of reading four levels, it will read 16 levels! I have not looked inside my Q3, yet, but will when I cut or pot the really idiot - idiot alarm buzzer. Will post pics as I go.... Would like to... Add voltage/amp meter, bike computer/speedometer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetricUSA Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 I yet to open unit, but here is my current mods...Finally got all the parts to get the flash color LEDs mod to the skulls, crystal skull, three belt buckles, 16580 battery out of a bad m12 milwaukee battery, m3 dual lock, prototype boards, auto-flash tri-color leds, brackets.... Now I am ready for a night ride... Not bright enough for daytime, like braggy 9bot... Three LEDs on big skull, two on top front, one for the middle, and three on bottom skull... Oh, and never crash again....right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetricUSA Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 Got to show off bad ass skull... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indetrucks Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Cool!You're going to look like a floating Xmas tree! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MetricUSA Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Sigbot askedHey MetricUSA,I saw your post with your led light mods, looks awesome! I wanted to ask what voltage leds do you need to connect to the internals. I'm mainly wanting to install a red led strip in the rear and a white one in the front for safety lighting. I saw a bunch of red led strip bars on Amazon, but for vehicles they're 12v. I don't think the EU's are that voltage am I correct? Did you add in any fuses or resisters to get them to work? Also, where did you solder them to so that when you turn it on the leds light up?Thank you for your input! The flashing LEDs I used had to be wired parallel to one another. I wanted to wire in series, to use '12' volts or the 8.4 volts of my headband lights, but the flashing internals of the LEDs did not work as well, so had to go parallel with shunt resisters, so the 8.4 or 12 volt battery was out, because that wasted too much energy drop across resistors. I had two bad 12 volt M3 battery packs, so I torn into that to find only one good 16580 lithium battery (three per 12 volt pack), that was 4.1 volts. So I have a total of four parallel led/ressistor circuits running off a 4 volt battery, about a total of 130 milliamps. The battery last a long time in between charging. I had a simple flip switch wired after battery that I attached both to eu handle. So no, I did not tap into eu battery, did not have to open unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc415 Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 MetricUSA,Can you build something like this -> Tron Bike lightsI'd pay you! Those are drool worthy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blechi Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 ...snip... The flashing LEDs I used had to be wired parallel to one another. I wanted to wire in series, to use '12' volts or the 8.4 volts of my headband lights, but the flashing internals of the LEDs did not work as well, so had to go parallel with shunt resisters, so the 8.4 or 12 volt battery was out, because that wasted too much energy drop across resistors. I had two bad 12 volt M3 battery packs, so I torn into that to find only one good 16580 lithium battery (three per 12 volt pack), that was 4.1 volts. So I have a total of four parallel led/ressistor circuits running off a 4 volt battery, about a total of 130 milliamps. The battery last a long time in between charging. I had a simple flip switch wired after battery that I attached both to eu handle. So no, I did not tap into eu battery, did not have to open unit.AFAIK you can wire one flashing LED in series with normal LEDs. Then they will all flash and don't waste as much battery power as the parallel version. (Don't forget the current limiting resistor.) MetricUSA,Can you build something like this -> Tron Bike lightsI'd pay you! Those are drool worthy...Or these: monkeylights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.