IhKa

@ Sebastianknieps90 Your photo seems to have the RESET wire incorrectly soldered, it should not close the two sides of the part. Solder the wires more accurately and preferably thinner, 20-30 cm long.

Sebastianknieps90 MRN76 gave you the right recommendations for setting up without RESET. Do not connect the RESET that is on the ST-Link connector. After clicking on the CONNECT icon, there is a period of time to get into, a little earlier, a little later.

Check, you have all correctly connected and soldered. If, for some reason, you do not connect without the RESET, you need to solder the RESET wire to the leg 18 inside the STLink. To disassemble it, you need to pull the case in different directions.

It is not clear what the program shows. Show screenshots of the problem. I connected several times without the RESET wire. Connection happened from the first time. To do this, bring STLink to the nest, but not insert. Click in the program icon CONNECT and immediately insert STlink.

The direction of the engine does not matter. But in order to prevent the memory effect from appearing in the battery, it should be completely discharged at least once every 2-3 months. You will not do anything. It is better than one battery, but worse than two good ones. In the services of electric bicycles it can be repaired. And while you can not drive 30 km / h. The controller takes care of your health. In China, repair and improve a the same time. Replace LG elements with more powerful Samsung. If your Ninebot is new, you should replace the battery for free in segway services. You can also check each battery by disconnecting it one at a time. And compare the distance that each of them will pass. Screenshots were taken with a time difference and may be inaccurate.

The firmware has nothing to do with it. The pictures show that one battery is much weaker. Almost twice as weak. 3,67w and 2,09w.

Arrows are drawn on the controller board. They indicate where to route the thick wires of the batteries. Thin wires to the side where they are soldered. Make a screenshot of each battery is necessary when driving uphill. If there is any weak element, the difference will be visible under load. Now on your pictures one battery is disconnected, there is no current.

capoccio1 it looks like you have one weak battery. With a heavy load, Nineboot switches to single-battery mode. Did you connect everything correctly during the assembly?

Probably the name was distorted when translating. Sorry not watched. I was glad to make my participation.

Sorry, machine translation. Programmer ST-Link V2. We need the programmer itself. You can buy it on AliExpress. For example here: https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/FREE-SHIPPING-ST-Link-V2-stlink-mini-STM8STM32-STLINK-simulator-download-programming-With-Cover/1766455290.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000014.24.416d1350yS9TCq&pvid=89863938-68f5-4833-9396-ba5446814056&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.115538.0&scm-url=1007.13338.115538.0&scm_id=1007.13338.115538.0 To work with it you need the program STM32 ST-LINK Utility. We download it for free from the official website of the manufacturer’s company controller: https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-link004.html Link at the very bottom of the page. You will be asked to provide your first name, last name (any) and your email. A download link will be sent to the mail.. After downloading install the program. At the end of the installation, the program will ask you to install the driver. Be sure to allow the driver to install. Now, if you connect a programmer, Windows will detect it and sign “ST-Link”. This can be viewed by hovering over the USB connection icon next to the clock. Also download the Speed2Increase application at the beginning of this topic. Thanks to GMOne for the work done. Now you need to prepare a lot of space for disassembling your wheel. We look at the online disassembly instructions. Remove from both sides of the sidewall. I could not open them. I had to pry the corner with a thin screwdriver and pull it up. Then push the usual screwdriver into the slot and press upwards from the inside. The sides open with a bang, but everything remains intact. Disconnect the battery. The manufacturer indicates - first disconnect the thin wires, then thick. When you connect the battery - on the contrary. Disconnect the motor wires. Connections are packed with shrink tube, carefully cut it without damaging the wires, and disconnect. Unscrew and remove the parts above the LEDs. Now, on both sides, unscrew the screws connecting the two halves of the case. To remove one of the halves, it is necessary to remove one pedal. Remove the pedal from the side where there is no motor wires. Do not forget to unscrew the small locking screw at the bottom of the pedal in the middle. Unscrew the four screws near the pedal. Raise half of the case and disconnect the wires to the LED strip. Raise the top with a handle and disconnect the LED strip from the other half. We unscrew the metal radiator of the controller on four screws. Raise it and disconnect the wire connectors. Finally, we have a controller in our hands. When assembling, pay attention to the thick wires for the batteries. On the board indicated by arrows, where they should be sent. Now you need to connect the programmer to the controller board. There was no RESET on my programmer, so I connected four wires. The RESET that is on ST-Link v2 is not suitable, it is for another microcontroller. The one that is needed on leg 18 inside ST-Link v2, it is not brought out. The board is covered with a protective layer of lacquer, so before you solder the wires, apply tin to the soldering places, rubbing them slightly with the tip of a soldering iron. You will see when the contacts are cleared. Do not overheat the board, the tracks on it may come off. Do not use force to prevent damage to components. Solder wires no more than 20 cm, otherwise the connection may not be. When everything is connected. Run the program STM32 ST-LINK Utility. Set the values in the circled fields as shown. If you have soldered five wires with RESET, connect the programmer's USB cable to the computer and click the CONNECT icon indicated by the arrow .. If four wires are soldered without RESET, like mine, hold the cable to the USB port of the computer, but do not plug in. Click the CONNECT icon, and immediately plug in the USB cable. The program will display the firmware code of your controller. Do not press the red icon of the eraser ERASE, otherwise you will erase the entire firmware of the controller. Now that the program has read the code, click on the diskette icon and save the file with the name Firmware and the extension bin. Once again, save the file with the name original, in case you want to return the original firmware. Make sure that the path to the file contains only English names, or place it directly on the disk. Do not close the program and do not disconnect the cable in order not to connect again. Run as administrator of the application Speed2Increation, downloaded from this topic. Specify the Firmware.bin file you created. Click Check, select S2 and set the speed. Click Patch. Now the firmware is changed. It remains to download it back to the controller. Close the Speed2Increase application. Return to the STM32 ST-LINK Utility application, which is still open. Click the first open file icon. And specify the Firmware.bin file that you changed. After, click the Program icon, as in the picture. In the window that appears, we change nothing and click Start. We are waiting for the download to finish. If you are connected without a RESET wire, it will give an error at the end. Do not pay attention to her. Now the controller is reprogrammed. Unsolder the wires and collect your Ninebot. Reasonably tighten the screws. Well, go ahead, experience new sensations of freedom!