digithom

I take part to topics in a public worldwide forum just to give others my experience but more than this to learn from others experience, not to "have the last word", I don't know why you're talking to me in this way. I reported my ks18xl behavior and yes, it is a 2200W version, the same of my friend, at the time I was the owner I did't know about strange behavior KS firmwares so, thanks to let me know this. I'm still in contact with the new owner, I'll take a look as soon as possible to fix it and avoid any trouble.

I can confirm what I wrote, and not only mine ks18xl, the same was happening to ks18xl of my friend, this is the reason why I classified it as normal, mybe it is no exactly 10% but significantly battery discharge after full charge and then stays steady at this point. It is not a dead cell issue, wheel is able to run his nominal range, so batteries are fine. It looks like if it is a voluntary discharge, or some circuit inside stays on, wasting battery for a period, after full charge.

Of the three stories only yours is due to a mosfet issue. We are usual to say "after you burnt with the soup, you'll blow also on ice cream", don't fall on this, it is meaningless evaluate a complete euc just comparing mosfets, and from a tech point of view there are not cheap or expensive, poor or good but only the right one for your application. The Master fail you reported is scaring exactly because it is not a mosfet fail, but an unexplained one, it was running at a very low speed (compared wtih Master performances) at high charge battery status (90%) and euc suddenly powered off, nothing is broken, it works perfectly, this is really scaring.

I've recently installed the same tire, the same size 90/90-14 but since it is very precise i preferred to install spacers between batteries ans frame so to gain some space between tire and batteries. 4mm each side. At the first ride I felt like the first time I were riding an ECU, and after 100km I can confirm my complete disappoint, I can't ride over 40km/h without feel in danger, over this speed my Master start wobbling spontaneously and I can consider 40km/h the very last safe speed, a complete disaster IMHO. My weight is 65kg, I've stared with 30PSI, then decreased to 22PSI but without a noticeable increase in stability. I'll wait for another kind of tire and then I'll drop this k66 in the trash.

like other people did, I used my wheel and left it some days, and voltage stayed stable. At the first occasion I'll do the complete test: fully charge and let the wheel steady, checking periodically the voltage until it stops. I'm writing the code for a microprocessor in order to automate the voltage reading, I'm quite ready for the test, I'm waiting a rainy week so I'll not use my Master

Osserva meglio il fenomeno, non si scarica all'infinito, si abbassa di qualche volt in un paio di giorni e poi resta così.

This issue is already discussed here. It looks like that the latest charge board slowly discharges the battery for a matter of balancing and safety (nobody knows) in order to don't let the battery fully charged for a long period of time.

Hi all, I have recently bough a Master and run in to the issue of display and headlights not running at low temperature (and some more other things but not relevant to this post) and the seller sent me the usual three boards needed to solve this problem. Then I encountered this thread and since I manage electronics and microprocessor software I wish to give a contribute to this post. My Master has been provided with charge board V3, and for spare I received the V4 (the one with the connector not welded on the board but at the end of three wires), I ran the charge test yesterday, it charged up to 134.1V, to get this data I powered on the wheel without disconnect the charge cord, then I unplugged the charge connector and let it for all the night. This morning I powered on the wheel and eucworld reports 133.9V, we are about 12 hour after disconnection. In the next days I'll replace the board with the new model and I'll repeat the test and I'll let you know. Anyway, we have to keep in mind some tech things about batteries and microprocessors 1) every battery shows a drop voltage after charge is disconnected, it is physiologically of the chemistry of batteries 2) keep in mind that power button is a software item, so, some electronics needs to stay always powered in order to listen the button press, this can't cost 0 energy 3) we don't know the logic behind the charge/balance etc ... implemented by Begode so I't is very dangerous to sentence "it is not working properly" because we don't know what should be the properly way, just for example, my old ks18xl, was dropping 10% of battery on the first 1 day, and then it stays at his 90%, even if the charger is plugged and yes, it is normal, every ks18 acts in this way

The same for me, and I can confirm that umidity and low temperatures increase the probability that I'll not be able to power on my V11 (even without gloves) As a workaround, after pressed the power button (and EUC refuses to power on) bluetooth connection is alive, if I connect my phone in this moment, then it will power on at the next press of power button, but I can't make a rule on this.

The power on refused on kickstand is normal, we are not talking about this, I think that after the first day of owning everybody has learnt this condition (the same as you). Wear a pair of gloves and you're not be able to power on your V11, even if it is standing upright.

After upgrading to V1.4.22 the wheel seems more noisy when idle, it is like if motor tuning is a little bit changed and it is now more nervous. I've not yet tested on the road.

No luck, even with firmware v1.4.22

Mine is a 4th batch and power button doesn't works with gloves, do you know which batch is yours ? I'll give a try with this new firmware ...

Exactly, it is only a matter of power on. After power on you can wear your gloves and you'll be able to switch on/off the light and power off the wheel, everything is working perfectly, only power on is double checked testing a real finger and not an object that could be trying to switch on the wheel accidentally. Anyway, even if this looks like a security feature, I think it is too much invasive and can fail very easily letting you to walk to home or asking to people around you to try their finger on your button, it is ridiculous I wish to be able to disable this feature and convert the power button to a normal switch only sensible to pressure and not to finger touch.

Here is the friend I'm mentioning in my post