Knight Rider Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 I left it charging for 6 hours never went past 95%. The wheel has had 2337.2 miles in total. What's going on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 (edited) 1 hour ago, Knight Rider said: I left it charging for 6 hours never went past 95%. The wheel has had 2337.2 miles in total. What's going on? Go for 2-5km ride and try charging again.. Try repeating this at least 2-3 times and see if it still isn't charging. Also keep in mind you may fall as there may be problem with battery. And while charging it may start smoking/fire, so keep a watchful eye while charging these 2-3 times. (Do it outside or somewhere it won't destroy/burn down house.) If it doesn't fully charge after these 2-3 short rides - you got dead battery cell... You could try reading battery voltage directly from battery itself with multimeter <<< if you have one and know how to use it.. Edited June 9 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintips Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 On 6/9/2024 at 1:25 AM, Knight Rider said: I left it charging for 6 hours never went past 95%. The wheel has had 2337.2 miles in total. What's going on? Samething happened to mine v8f and v5f. Supposedly the cells need to be manually rebalanced. You got way more km's out of it than i did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avevo Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 The voltmeter requires calibration. Inmotion only allows remote calibration: you will have the wheel fully charged and still connected to the charger have the app connected to the wheel they will ask you to go to the app diagnostics menu, or something like that then they will issue a remote "calibrate" command the app will recognize it and do the instant recalibration shutting down and turning on again, it will correctly show "100%" and voltage values for safety reasons, they don't allow the user to recalibrate the wheel. Also note that that kind of miscalibration may happen on V5/V8/V10 series. The miscalibration will slowly get worse (in a few months you could see 94%, 93% apparent maximum charge). The miscalibration may happen either "below" (you see something like "not charging past 95%" when the battery is actually fully charged) or "above" (you see "100%" but the battery voltage going higher than 83.8-83.9 volts; and if you disconnect when it just reached 100%, it will actually have less charge than expected). If it happens "below" it's safe because you just just lose a bit of range. When the app says "41% battery left" and its maximum charge was read as "95%", it's actually 46%. You just won't be able to use the bottom part of the battery capacity. If it happens "above" it may become both annoying and dangerous. Annoying: you see "100% charge" with an incorrect report of "86 volts". When braking, it could easily go above "87.1 volts" apparent voltage that keeps triggering the "overload alarm" that you can only stop by physically disconnecting the battery. Yes, it once happened to my V10F. The only annoying evening of my entire EUC riding history: carrying for about 1km a continously complaining wheel ("overload! please get off! overload! please get off!..."). Also, if it happens "above" it may become dangerous, because you see voltage/charge values higher than the real battery status. You may inavertently overstress your battery. The controller could ask for high currents when the battery is almost fully discharged, possibly damaging cells or getting a cut-out. In my case, the voltmeter was up almost 5 volts above the real value measured with a meter/tester. I had to get back home before it could go below 73V (because V10F defines "0% battery" as 68 volts). When I went riding, sometimes I could do 10-11 kilometers before the charge indicator officially went from 100% to 99% (we're talking about "badly reported values", not about the actual battery level). So, you need the battery recalibration from Inmotion. Contact your retailer (or Inmotion, if the retailer is not known). Looks like the V11 had a different voltmeter method, accurately timing a capacitor discharge; so if you turn on the wheel, the app will report in a few seconds a decreasing series of funny low voltage values (43 volts, 35 volts, 22 volts, etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight Rider Posted June 27 Author Share Posted June 27 On 6/9/2024 at 8:50 AM, Funky said: Go for 2-5km ride and try charging again.. Try repeating this at least 2-3 times and see if it still isn't charging. Also keep in mind you may fall as there may be problem with battery. And while charging it may start smoking/fire, so keep a watchful eye while charging these 2-3 times. (Do it outside or somewhere it won't destroy/burn down house.) If it doesn't fully charge after these 2-3 short rides - you got dead battery cell... You could try reading battery voltage directly from battery itself with multimeter <<< if you have one and know how to use it.. I followed the steps. Before the third attempt to charge the wheel I rode for more than 5 miles and drain the battery to 50%. No cutouts occurred. Charged it for around 6 hours Never went past 97%. Charger was green but barely warm not hot like it usually is when charging during red. The next day I turned it on and there is only 94%. Voltage is 81.9 volts. 2353.4 miles in total rode so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Funky Posted June 27 Share Posted June 27 (edited) 6 minutes ago, Knight Rider said: I followed the steps. Before the third attempt to charge the wheel I rode for more than 5 miles and drain the battery to 50%. No cutouts occurred. Charged it for around 6 hours Never went past 97%. Charger was green but barely warm not hot like it usually is when charging during red. The next day I turned it on and there is only 94%. Voltage is 81.9 volts. 2353.4 miles in total rode so far. Charger went out of spec and doesn't charge to 84V, or dead cell in battery. (I have seen/heard that some or all chargers have that little knobs inside them where one can regulate it's voltage..) I don't really know anything about that.. Also be careful if you attempt to open it. Or buy right out new charger, or borrow from a friend, if you know someone who has same type of charger. Attempt charging the wheel again.. If still no dice - i got bad news - bad battery pack. Still it's only 2V difference.. Maybe wheel simply reports it wrongly? If one cell where dead in pack it would be ~4V difference normally. Edited June 27 by Funky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knight Rider Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 (edited) Update rode the wheel again with 94%, rode for 1.3 miles no hills, mostly flat, 10 min ride, max speed 22 MPH, arrived at destination with 90% power. 4 hours later rode again with 89%, 2.2 miles 14 min ride, max speed 20.6 MPH, average speed 8.8 MPH, same area no hills mostly flat, arrived with 80% power 79.7 volts. Driver Board Temp was at 106 F. Anyone see something odd here? Edited June 28 by Knight Rider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avevo Posted July 13 Share Posted July 13 Battery level is an estimate based on the floating voltage (voltage floats on a number of conditions, stress, ambient temperature, charge cycles, board and battery temp, and so on) and what happened in the last 15-30-60 seconds. Letting the battery "relax" after going uphill will apparently "recharge" a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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