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SBUV3 inside of the motor, alignment correction - success


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I asked before, meanwhile investigated and solved:

In this ancient EUC the accelerometer/processor/motor controller electronics are assembled inside of the hub motor.



I was able to open the motor of mine using a kitchen knife (held at the line between rim and cap) and a plastic hammer. Only little force was required to separate the cap. There is some sealing glue but it is a soft elastic silicon type.


As expected, all electronics are found on one PCB mounted to the stator.
Unexpectedly not on the side with the cable inlet, but on the other side,
the one with the full axle.

The PCB is screwed on a sheet of aluminium which is screwed on the stator.
I did not like to open both sides of the motor at the same time, so it
was a bit challenging to hold the nuts of the screws for the PCB.
(The other screws go into machined threads.)

To correct/adjust the zero angle, simply the whole PCB has to be rotated a bit in the appropriate direction.
(I slightly extended the holes in the carrier sheet.)

There are some heat conducting gel pads between carrier and PCB.
Thermal contact with the right pressure is crucial to keep e.g. the power transistors alive and the rider healthy.
PCB, cables, capacitors should be secured (cable straps, silicone glue).

After re-assembling everything (incl. similar tasks as for changing a tyre) She was fine, running like a charm.

The motor axle must be very firmly fixed in the vehicle frame.
Else a vibration feedback may develop resulting in a freaking behavior throwing the rider.

All the best,





component side of pcb



corrected (slightly rotated clockwise)


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  • 2 weeks later...

Thx for the info.  I own one of these as well.  I will stash your information away in my "library" for possible future use.

I'm in need of a new set of batteries, I only get 1.5 miles out of mine currently.  I have contacted Focus Designs in hopes that they might be able to supply me with a set and have not gotten a reply as of yet.  I've also thought about building my own set but I'm trying to take the most efficient route first.

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  • 1 year later...

Is there anyone connected to the product still in business?

I made my own replacement battery years before. Just rebuilt everything using new LiFePo4 cells, copper ribbon for connection, the original foam rubber adhesive sheets and original cables. Quick soldering using a flux for stainless steel (or welding) is required. Works with no problem.

But currently I have a problem in the electronics. Boots normally but no motor current.


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