Rol

@Keith No, I thought it was a typing error of you, because you have send pictures of the electrical scheme of the motor - Sorry. The electrical resistance across all combinations of thick wires (from the motherboard) is nearly infinite. The device was fully functional before I changed his tire. I am not sure about the situation when the tire is changed. But every wire does not have to be connected for mechanical reasons. I do not have the equipment at home to measure pulsed current or voltage, just a multimeter. It's difficult for me to follow your suggestions, because when I turn on the device, I have a few seconds before the device switches to the safe mode and does nothing more. It reacts as if it is not connected to the ground and switches to error mode. Do you need to measure while the device is on? I do not want to switch to combinations of the engine's color coded cables, as I'm pretty sure the combination is right (colors fit). By the way, what does "FET" mean? I could ask someone from my university to check the boards components. I'm a mechanical engineer and a computer scientist - almost nothing to do with electrical components. I think it's bad that the device worked before and now unfortunately not anymore.

@Keith The electrical resistances across each combination of the thin wires of the motor (of course separate from the thick wires from the motherboard) are about 0.3 ohms. The peak voltage measured by the multimeter is about 56 V in yellow-green and yellow-blue. Green-Blue shows a signal, but the sampling time of my multimeter is too slow. I do not have an oscilloscope. I found an article about the electrical design within this forum - I repaced the fuse several times ? @The Fat Unicyclist: The mechanical situation is the same as before. For me, it feels like the software of the main board is not able to get the complete set of sensor data and/or it is not able to react in the right way due to problems with the electric. Any ideas for the next step?

I am not sure if I understood your question correctly. But I calibtated the upright position using the App.

I disconnected all the wires and plugs and assambled it in the right order - I hope so. All plugs are polarized and all the wires are color coded: Unplugged. The thin wires are connected by a polarized plug. If it is pluged out, the App shows the message 0013: Holzer fault. If it is plugged in the app is able to show the speed, when I rotate the wheel to left and right (both directions) Here you can see a videos what happens when all wires are connected an I switch it on: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AlC8lKs4xvyNiMxu3X6OQF_z_5qhNw At first is stays still. When I turn the device a little bit it starts to vibrate. Hence, I switched it off.

Hi, I opened and my IPS ZERO (IPS141 ZERO-340WH) to change the wheel. Now, when I switch on the device, the wheel starts to shake and the 30A fuse blows. I changed the fuse inside the controller many times, tried to reset it with the IPSUtil but without success. Now I left the wires to the motor disconnected (to protect the fuse) and one can see on the app, that the controller tries to give high enegery to the motor. After some seconds the device starts to beep and the LEDs are blinking in red. The App shows the error message 0020: Idleing Protection. Tony Lee wrote me, that the IPS stopped the production of the IPS ZERO and no spare parts are available. Any Ideas what went wrong, oder how to repair it? Greetings from Germany Roland