bbulkow

Me too! Although that was my final speed, not my initial speed.

The new shock, and that kit, and some hex keys, are all that's required. I considered manufacturing the same essential thing just for the fun of manufacturing it, but then the kit arrived and worked perfectly so I didn't bother.

Close.... I don't use this categorization - or at least this name - because there simply aren't mopeds on our roads. Having a category without examples and social norms doesn't help much..... If there are mopeds where you exist, sure! but we don't have them. It is a legal category, however, in california. but I haven't seen one in a million years --- or in America generally --- since about the 80's. The legal category you are referring to, a scooter, in california, is a 20 to 30 mph vehicle which is registered, requires a helmet and drivers license (M1), but not insurance and not NHTSA certification. The device as sold can't go beyond 30mph, and if it's modified to go past 30mph, and the cops catch you going over 30mph, they take your tags away..... so, one may not go beyond 30mph. We also have a similar ebike category - "Category III" ebike --- which is basically the 20 to 30 MPH range. These do not have tags, do not require a motorcycle endorsement, do not require a helmet (I think?), and are also limited to 30MPH. I see a lot of ebikes around. I won't bore you with the exact technical distinction between the two.... needless to say, an EUC is neither :-)....we have only have one wheel.... This category, whatever it is, likely maps to what you call 'moped', and seems like a category, I'll give you that. I do bicycle regularly above 20 mph, closer to 25mph, and up past 30 into the 35mph range (downhill :-) on most rides, too. [Legally, there is also a "low speed vehicle" category which is golf-cart range... but we aren't being exhaustive about categories :-) ) This category is what I think an S18 and 2kw-ish wheels are. I ride according to the "Cat 3 ebike" rules myself, because it's the most common socially, and I feel quite happy breaking the law of riding a category 3 ebike with no handlebars, pedals, and missing a wheel. I'd feel a little happier if I could register my EUC as a scooter and get a scooter tag, but the form requires either 2 or 3 wheels and you have to take your object to a DMV for signoff. I have considered strapping outrigger wheels to my pedals, calling myself 3 wheels, and trying for registration :-) In any case, we agree that the speeds 30++ , or at least a bit beyond 30MPH (like 35++), are just in a different category. I believe that category should have licensed drivers, be safety tested, registered and insured.

Hi, there are two threads on this topic and I posted details on the other one. The required shock is 200x57mm. However, it's also true that "imperial" size of 7.875 x 2.25 inches is exactly the same as your calculator will say. There are shocks by Fox, RockShox, and CaneCreek in this size. It is possible slightly different sizes will work, I've stayed with the size specified by Kingsong. There are two reasons this isn't a true bolt-on. First is the eyelet size: 12.7mm instead of 12mm on the stock shock. These are the two most common sizes, and higher end shocks tend to use 12.7. Using 12mm with 12.7 shock, there is simply too much slop, don't do it. One guy from poland says use three turns of an aluminium drinks can which would work too :-). The second issue is the width of the eyelet, which determines the width of the spacers. Spacers are easier to manufacture because they are not "really" load bearing - they center the shock but they don't take bumps. You need to know the width of the eyelet for the shock you are buying, and the ID is 12.7 and the OD is whatever you like. The kit you buy, therefore, is an "8x50" kit will contain a new "sleeve" (with the axel inside and the shock on the outside) with an 8mm interior hole (8.05mm if you're getting it manufactured) and a 50mm width. The spacers will be different for different shocks, which is why you will want 8x50 for fox, or cane creek, or whatever. Or you can measure your intended shock, and 3D print (petg, something strong) two pieces - it must add up to 50mm so (50 - (shock width)) / 2 --> spacer width. Spacer too big really doesn't even assemble, spacer too small will allow the shock to get non-vertical which would greatly impede its function so accuracy is about 0.1ish, 0.2mm required. Once you have the new fit kit and the new shock it is less than an hour to change over. You expose the bolts by compressing suspension, unbolt the old shock, fit the kit and new shock, tighten those two bolts, enjoy. No need to remove the wheel or shell. The online supplier I have found is TfTuned in the UK, which is this kit: https://www.tftuned.com/tf-tuned-mount-kit-127mm-m8/p2937 . I bought the kit for Fox since I bought a Fox Float DPX2, and the part is of high quality and fits perfectly. Stainless. You will need two kits (one for each end of the shock), which for me was 40GBP including tax and shipping to the US. I am sure other suppliers might have the same but these people seem professional and have a good part at the right price so I don't need anyone else :-) Fit was flawless now I am riding on a DPX2! Do I like the DPX2 better than stock? I think so! I feel more connected to the ground, strangely, it's not as plush but I just feel more connected while also getting bumps ironed out. Is it $600 better? well, maybe not, or I guess it depends on what $600USD means to you :-) I am a road rider, was looking for more fluidity, but also better performance on the dirt roads (trails but not like singletrack) I ride. I would love to ride someone else's mod, compare, I don't think I'm going to shell out another $500-ish to experiment.... I have subsequently read the Monarch is reputed to be a better plush ride on bikes, compared to the DPX2 which is more racing oriented. Had I read those reviews first, I might have bought the Monarch.... hard to say.

In the US it is illegal past 12mph in every state I've closely read the laws. Thus, the same. I think there's a BIG difference in illegality between driving 40MPH among public roads where every other vehicle is registered, licensed, and insured, and going 25MPH riding according to bicycle norms where every other vehicle is NOT registered, licensed and insured. I believe the law, and a relevant police officer, would likely agree with me. The penalties for driving an unregistered, unlicensed, uninsured vehicle are pretty steep and well known, the penalties for riding an electric scooter with only one wheel and no handlebars is really not clear and almost certainly far lighter - and the way I ride, cops wave hello :-) . It sounds like you agree and are following bicycle rules. I think the S18 is quite safe when riding in that fashion, and although I might agree that it would be nice to have more safety buffer and the ability to blip up at the times when its safe (I have one trail I ride on near me that qualifies, the sight lines are literally over 2+ miles and no one is ever there), I'm willing to live with the lighter weight and price. If a wheel came out with a bit more of everything for the same price and weight of course I would buy it I'm not an idiot.

The DPX2 benefits from fully Open shock setting, including the 3mm hex key (came from factory not that). Also, using the Fox Digital pump, which gives much more information as the chambers are equalizing. Instead of redistributing every 50psi, one must redistribute while watching the gauge, and and redistribute until pressure stops changing. Then, yes, start your pressure at your lbs + about 30 for the wheel's weight (it seems they think mt bikes are about 20 lbs so 30 seems about right). I know most of you don't have DPX2 and this doesn't make sense but for anyone else who does install one these are the two tips that now give me an exceptional ride. Pity I don't have an extra $1000 to try the RockShock and Cane Creek suspension units just for fun.

New S18 owner here, two things to add. First, I am finding myself comfortable more on the 25++ side than the 25-- side, _because I have suspension_. My prior fear, always, was a ridge or pothole or tree root based edge that I didn't pick up, and the wheel would catch air and go sideways (not cutout), and I want to go slow enough to not outrun my brain. I am already finding myself more willing to pick up a bit more speed, which might cause me to start overruning the S18's capabilities. Instead, I will be telling myself this means I can enjoy riding more, and be less mentally tired and physically tired when I arrive, and arrive safer. Second, I think we just need to remember there are two kinds of EUC riders now, the ones who are Bike-ish (20 to 25mph), and those who are Motorcycle-ish (30 to 40), and we should agree to live and let live. I see comments like "if you have an S18 you can't hit a single bump in the road" as being just plain unreasonable and unhelpful, it's not true. It is true you should stay out of Road Driving and stay in Bike territory (which is sometimes the road, yeah I know very well thanks, but even in the road has different rules). I myself am in the Bike++ camp. I think anyone who takes an unregistered, uninspected vehicle, not bound by NHTSA (in the US) regulations, and drives it in the road (and that means anything including cars and whatnot), is doing something pretty bad. I'm willing to at least say "live and let live" for you road-riders at 40mph, at least, because we all love EUCs, but I hope you're not in the US, or you're working hard to get the laws changed (let's roll back all safety regs like seatbelts for cars, or create for EUC a set of regs like we do for motorcycles including registration and insurance). When I want to drive - and it is driving at that point - in traffic, I have a license and registration and insurance and a safety designed vehicle. Some of those vehicles are pretty fast. On an EUC, I ride the bike lanes and the bike streets and go on public transit with my wheel and the S18 is GREAT for that because it's just on the correct side of light enough, and has the extra safety of keeping the rubber on the road when the road turns to crap. To the topic of speed chasing, know what camp you are in! "Driving" vs "riding" is a big leap and not to be done by just drifting a little faster now and then. Think about what you're really doing....

Update: this TfTuned kit DOES allow replacement of the stock 12mm eyelet part with any 12.7mm eyelet part. It's exactly what everyone who wants a shock upgrade would want, and installed flawlessly for me. The parts are higher quality than what comes with the S18. You need to click on 8x50 and get quantity 2 (one for each end). This cost me GBP40 with delivery to the US. Delivery over Royal Mail happened with tracking number and took about a week. https://www.tftuned.com/tf-tuned-mount-kit-127mm-m8/p2937 This is because: 1) the width of the bracket is 50mm. A 51mm might fit too, but the original part was 50mm on the nose. 2) the diameter of the axel is 8mm. This is a standard size (although somewhat rare for a part so long). 3) Then you just need a kit for the shock you're mounting. This 8x50 part comes to fit a number of shocks, I bought the fox kit. Using this kit does not require a full disassembly. You simply need to compress the suspention to get access to the end bolts, undo the bolts, force them through the holes (requires force!), compress the new shock, line it up, bolts back in, and away you go. Getting the old bolts out requires a little finesse, as does getting the bolts back in, but patience and a few well placed hammer blows will get you through. I am not doing a general post yet, as I think the Fox shock I mounted might not be the best for the S18 - I would consider its ride "tight" in that I get a lot of road feel on sharp transitions - which apparently is well known for this shock - but it has a lot of tuning options, maybe I haven't found the tune yet. The RockShox Monarch RT is also recommended in a different post, and it's considered "plusher" and might be a better choice for my kind of riding. It's also cheaper I think - the Fox I fit was expensive!!! The part I linked might also be the right one for the Monarch, or you might need a slightly different 8x50 mount kit. If I get it tuned, I'll have a stock shock to sell :-) for all you who blew out yours. PS. My manufacturing friend didn't have quite the right bit in stock for his milling machine, so we decided to wait for this part before he ordered more. A 50mm hole with 8.05 tolerance requires some particular bit he didn't have, and stainless, too.

That's really weird that you couldn't get them off by having a wrench on each side. Hex bolts give really good connection between the wrench and the bolt, more than just about anything else (except maybe Torx). Assuming you properly seated the wrenches, assuming you used the right size (correct metric not the closest imperial), assuming you put the "short end" in the bolt and your hand on the "long end" for proper leverage, assuming you didn't tighten it. The blue locktite is "standard hand tools" tight, which is the correct locktite to use. On mine, the bolts are machined pretty fine and correctly, and that bolt was not tight at all (in a good way). I did not find appreciable riding difference between the washers on and off, but my bolt wasn't overtightened. Overtightened, it'll create serious friction... but how much? That won't be a safety hazard other than by having less suspension than you should. A standard propane torch works just as well as a pencil torch, it's just BE CAREFUL time because you can blister the paint off. Around here, propane torches are very cheap, like USD20. You can also buy a "culinary torch" like used for creme brulee, then you've got a torch for making desert just as much as home repairs.

You need stubby hex wrenches, then it should be a breeze. You don't have to work around the shock - I couldn't manage that either. like these: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-16792-Stubby-L-Wrench-BriteGuard/dp/B0006O4AHY (there are plenty of others) Did you have stubby wrenches? If so, what was the problem? These shouldn't be very tight, mine was just barely tight, because you don't want it tight because that puts friction from the washer to the rotating unit. Mine came from KS correctly tightened - that is, very loosely, with a dab of blue locktite to keep the bolt in place.

My comment on KS QC. I've been paranoid about checking everything because I've read about how bad QC is. My checks on all the parts is they're fine. If I wasn't a perfectionist about getting a better suspension, I'd be just off riding and enjoying. The wheel is very planted feeling, which it should be with this kind of design, very neutral, just when I ride over a bump I feel it a lot less, and I don't get thrown off by larger bumps. I think this is a great street riding wheel for extra safety because I was most worried about getting thrown under the wheels of a bus by a pavement flaw and the chances are now far lower. I have no idea why one would add spacers in the center joint. If I take off the washer, it doesn't contact the arm. If I have spacers, the washer has no function because it's just hanging in mid-air being a mud guard which I don't think it needs. Yall mystify me.

Thanks, but not interested in opening a parts supply business :-) . I can't even manage to sell things on ebay, because, shipping is confusing. If the TfTuned kit works, it's a very reasonable price, they've shipped it to me, will update when it arrives. And, that was 40GBP for two sets (both ends of the shock) and international shipping. Compared to the price of the shock (>500USD) that's a very reasonable price. My manufacturing guy says I want 8.05mm ID for "normal fit", and looks like I want stainless for the part. My 3d prints are a little wonky so (as usual :-/ ) I'm tweaking speeds and temps to get a nicer print. Using transparent filament looks cool though.

I have a new Fox shock in hand and did all my measurements. Yes, I need a new part. The method of suspension is a "three piece pin and sleeve", mostly. https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=251 , according to Fox's taxonomy. There are two bushings, and one pin (and the pin has an axel inside). The pin is 50mm wide, which is not very standard. 51mm width is pretty common, and a fitting kit for Fox shocks and a 51mm fork would probably work. I have found on TFTuned what appears to be the exact fit kit. Made for Fox, 8mm axel, 50mm width. 40GBP shipped to the US. TF Tuned Mount Kit 12.7mm M8 8x50 (TF850) But because it's more fun, I am also asking a friend to manufacture the shaft I need --- 50mm wide same as original, 8mm ID same as original, 12.7mm OD which is the larger standard. (or as one poster said, wrap a tin can around the pin a couple times so it fits nicely in the eyelet, I'm going to try to do it right :-) ). I also need to manufacture two new bushings. The Fox end is 16.5 wide, the stock unit is 14.25. This means the two bushings need to be (50 - 16.5 ) / 2 = 16.75 wide, and 12.7 ID instead of 12.0 ID. Since these aren't stressed members it's very easy to just print 4 new spacers (PETG for flexability and moderate UV resistance), so I'm doing the world's simplest model now. I'll report back if things work. Share and enjoy.

Alex, I think it's probably important to disassemble the shock and see what is rubbing against what. I thought I had wheel rubbing against fender, I have fender rubbing against suspension assembly but only in the last 1/3 of travel (so probably ok). Not saying you don't have wheel against fender, just... that fender's pretty noisy (big long plastic) so it could go either way. Good luck.

Really really really wish someone would comment on a non-pepsi-can means for shimming the 12mm to 12.7mm gap on these shocks.