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Gormash

Not charging

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Hi guys. I have a problem and hoped some of you might help me out...

I have a NineBot One E+ with a 1rattwerkstatt battery upgrade that's been running faithfully for two years now without any promlem at all.Last week I gave the wheel an overhaul, cleaning it and removing dirt and I've not had occation to use it until a few days ago after that. The wheel runs just fine, but it won't charge.

The powerbrick has a tiny led that glows red while it's charging, and green when fully charged or not plugged in. It now glows green constantly, and the wheel hasn't gained any power even after several hours. The charger I have does not have any bent pins in the plug (one of the first things I checked).
I've borrowed another charger from a buddy with the same wheel and it had the same problem, so the fault is definitely with the wheel itself.

I've opened up the wheel and checked the cables, making sure everything is thoroughly connected.

I'm not tech savvy enough to know anything about resistors or mofets or whatnots, so I can't tell if there's anything visually wrong with them, and I don't have any equipment for measuring voltages and such.

Any ideas?

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@Gormash,

you do not need to be THAT tech savvy to check things out, but a meter (less than €20) would certainly help.

As you say the charger will light green anytime it is supplying no, or at least less than 200mA or so, current. So everything you are saying and have already proved is that there is a disconnection on the charging side of the battery.

Do you have an App for the Ninebot? What percentage charge is it, and the wheel, showing the battery currently has?

What happens to the battery level when you ride it a short distance, does the voltage drop quickly or behave as it normally should? 

What I’m trying to confirm is that the battery does seem to be OK, I.e. that you do not have a duff cell or two that might cause the Battery Management System (BMS) to prevent charging.

Additionally, does the battery upgrade mean you have two batteries and hence BMS’s or is there just one battery? If so do you still have the other battery that you could temporarily fit?

Edited by Keith

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Try spinnning the wheel for a bit, by hand or get on and push along a wall, then plug it in immediatly afterwards. I have heard this works kinda like poping the clutch on a dead battery car.

Edited by jamakin

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@Keith
Hi there, and thanks for the fast reply.   :)

I've tested with the app. It is currently at aprox 40% power and holding steadily when using the wheel. I was at 60% yesterday and took a trip downtown, and the battery dropped at the regular pace. The wheel worked just as it always does. The only difference from before is that it doesn't charge when I plug in the charger.

The battery upgrade I mentioned is this one:
https://shop.strato.de/epages/80603321.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/80603321/Products/NinebotSET
It ia basically smaller packs that's added to each side of the wheel in addition to the original battery, raising it to 708Wh.

@jamakin
Thanks, I'll try that.

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I tried Jamakins tip, but it didn't work.
But it made me notice one thing that I hadn't before. Just for a split second, just as I plug in the charger, the light flashes red and then back to green. It happens every time.

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1 hour ago, Gormash said:

 

Quote

 

The powerbrick has a tiny led that glows red while it's charging, and green when fully charged or not plugged in. It now glows green constantly, and the wheel hasn't gained any power even after several hours. The charger I have does not have any bent pins in the plug (one of the first things I checked).
I've borrowed another charger from a buddy with the same wheel and it had the same problem, so the fault is definitely with the wheel itself.

 


 

 if another charger does the same thing, it does indicate that there's something wrong on the side of the wheel. It would really help if you could get yourself a simple voltmeter. They are just a few bucks and then you could easily trace where the voltage gets lost. Without it it's really just guess work. My best guess would be that there's something wrong with the charging port on the wheel or the wiring from the port to the batteries. With a voltmeter you could trace where the disconnect is located ....

Sorry, I can't help you more but without measuring there's not much t go on. You know, it could be a broken wire core, where the wire looks good from the outside but fractured internally due to vibrations. So just making sure it looks good won't tell you much about its conductivity. 

Edited by MacPara
messed up the quoting

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3 hours ago, jamakin said:

Try spinnning the wheel for a bit, by hand or get on and push along a wall, then plug it in immediatly afterwards. I have heard this works kinda like poping the clutch on a dead battery car.

That will not do anything in this case - that is a way of kicking a dead battery back into life - @Gormash Battery isn’t dead. BTW this only really works with Lithium Iron (LiFePO4) batteries such as Segway and early Solowheel use, if a Lithium Ion battery gets so low it will not charge it is landfill, if you did get it to take a charge this way it would be damaged enough to have very poor capacity.

3 hours ago, Gormash said:

The battery upgrade I mentioned is this one:
https://shop.strato.de/epages/80603321.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/80603321/Products/NinebotSET
It ia basically smaller packs that's added to each side of the wheel in addition to the original battery, raising it to 708Wh.

Ok, so as far as I can see each battery has got its own BMS built into it, even if one of those batteries or it’s BMS had developed a fault the three of them ought to be charging in parallel so one failing shouldn’t stop the others from charging. Indeed the RadWerkstatt page you link to says:”All 3 battery management systems operate independently. An error (the "never" appears :-)) in a battery pack only leads to failure of that pack and not the entire system. “ which confirms my thoughts. There is no error I (or indeed RAdWorkstatt) can think of that could occur in one of those batteries that would cause the others to not charge. The fault HAS to be in the charge circuit from the charger to the Batteries, are you sure the chargers work OK on your buddies wheel?

Basically, as I said before, you are going to need a multimeter to check where the break from the charger to the batteries is occurring. Could you possibly have plugged anything in incorrectly whilst overhauling it? Failing that I wire might have broken within the insulation so looks OK from the outside.

how is the charge circuit wired to the three batteries? Do you have a “Y” lead so all three batteries are clearly parallel connected to the charger socket or are the batteries daisy chained in some way I.e. charger goes to one battery then on to the next, etc?

 

Edited by Keith
Predictive text resulted in a mucking fuddle.

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@Gormash

Good to hear that your 9b1 is still in use! And sad to hear about the cahrging problems... But as mentioned before - you really need to get yourself a multimeter. Even a Biltema type (119,-) is great enough for troubleshooting purposes. I would take a closer look at that flimsy charging port/cable - could be a bad contact or damaged cable...

Skjermbilde.JPG.aeb9b31e04900d615f3e37ca316c79f1.JPG

*(random Picture from the interwebs)

 

Too bad things went south for topseller.no... they could help you with a testing/donor controller.

Edited by Vik's
pic

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Hi There,

I am currently having the exact same problem with my E+.  I plug it in, the charge light stays green and the wheel doesn't take a charge.  Everything on it is stock. I have not opened the wheel before, but I do have a multimeter.  

I should note that the charging connector on the wheel is somewhat loose.  Also, the first thing I noticed was that one of the pins inside the charging cable had become bent.  After straightening the pin out and trying to charge I noticed that the charging was not working.  I don't think it's the charger, however, as I have tried another charger with the same effect. 

Any tips on how to troubleshoot would be appreciated.

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Well certainly just cleaning it can never cause a problem duh? but still is there a chance you might have fried the sensitive parts with a static cloth which might give it one hell of a static electricity. Might wanna check that out. Also, be sure to use the multi meter which can be really useful especially for diagnostic purposes. Cheers and Good Luck

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