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Do These Bullet Connectors Look Compatible?


Marty Backe
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So, I just received my new ACM2 motor and ACM2 control board. I'm turning my original 1300wh ACM from a year ago into an ACM2.

Not really having much experience with the bullet connectors that Gotway uses for the motor wires, I'm not sure if what I got, in terms of connectors, is correct.

I had to pry open the female connector a bit before I could insert the male connector. I was able to push (very hard) them together as you see below, but the fit sure seems tight, and there's no sense of satisfying click or similar sensation. My initial thought is that the control board and motor bullet connectors are not compatible. This is Gotway you know :mellow:

Based on this picture, what do you guys think?

IMG_20180316_091825970_HDR

 

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

Based on this picture, what do you guys think?

I’ve never seen bullet connectors like these before? Almost invariably the male connector has the springing and the female is just a gold plated brass tube.

With these the springing on the female ought to ensure they stay together and conduct well.

If you are at all unsure of them staying together, just put a piece of heat shrink over both plug and socket and shrink it down - you need something to prevent them shorting anyway and that will give you mechanical security as well. It is something we commonly do on model planes and heli’s due to the high vibration they experience.

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

So, I just received my new ACM2 motor and ACM2 control board. I'm turning my original 1300wh ACM from a year ago into an ACM2.

Not really having much experience with the bullet connectors that Gotway uses for the motor wires, I'm not sure if what I got, in terms of connectors, is correct.

I had to pry open the female connector a bit before I could insert the male connector. I was able to push (very hard) them together as you see below, but the fit sure seems tight, and there's no sense of satisfying click or similar sensation. My initial thought is that the control board and motor bullet connectors are not compatible. This is Gotway you know :mellow:

Based on this picture, what do you guys think?

IMG_20180316_091825970_HDR

 

That certainly looks a bit off to me. But then again I’m not as well versed in bullet connections as @Rehab1:D

My 2 cents would be to get these castle brand bullets and just switch them all out . Doesn’t take to much time to do the solder work and you can have more peace of mind . Btw...where did you get the motor and pcb? You have to use 84v battery packs too don’t you ..

image.jpg

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29 minutes ago, Scott Henley said:

That certainly looks a bit off to me. But then again I’m not as well versed in bullet connections as @Rehab1:D

My 2 cents would be to get these castle brand bullets and just switch them all out . Doesn’t take to much time to do the solder work and you can have more peace of mind . Btw...where did you get the motor and pcb? You have to use 84v battery packs too don’t you ..

image.jpg

Thanks. If I get a consensus that these aren't a good fit I'll just cut them off and solder the wires together.

My original wheel is the 1300wh model which by definition is a 84-volt wheel.

@Jason McNeil is my supplier for all things EUC.

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I thought I recall seeing a Gotway worker pry the split end apart with a screwdriver so they could insert the male connector.  They probably got the tolerances just a little too much on the tight side unless there is a special connector tool to squeeze them together.  Maybe a simple crimped splice would be better than soldering these high current wires.

http://www.meyette.us/crimping.htm

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38 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Thanks. If I get a consensus that these aren't a good fit I'll just cut them off and solder the wires together.

My original wheel is the 1300wh model which by definition is a 84-volt wheel.

@Jason McNeil is my supplier for all things EUC.

Yeah. I figured . If I only had 84v batteries I could do the same thing to my ACM and then I’d definitely keep it . ?

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26 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

I thought I recall seeing a Gotway worker pry the split end apart with a screwdriver so they could insert the male connector.  They probably got the tolerances just a little too much on the tight side unless there is a special connector tool to squeeze them together.  Maybe a simple crimped splice would be better than soldering these high current wires.

http://www.meyette.us/crimping.htm

I like this idea . First I’ve seen it but definitely an easy and secure way to connect the motor wires . But you’d need to cut that splice out if you ever needed to remove the motor ...so if splice in some extra wire while youre at it .

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3 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

@Rehab1, do you recall how your bullet connectors came together?

Sorry for my late reply. I was hugging a crying divorcee. 

Are you replacing both the male and female? If not you should. I have experimented with 4 different bullet connector brands and none are compatible with each other.

@Scott Henley I see you purchased the 5.5 mm Castles. Great  bullet connector! 

Edited by Rehab1
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58 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Sorry for my late reply. I was hugging a crying divorcee. 

Are you replacing both the male and female? If not you should. I have experimented with 4 different bullet connector brands and none are compatible with each other.

@Scott Henley I see you purchased the 5.5 mm Castles. Great  bullet connector! 

It's not that I'm replacing the connectors, I'm trying to determine whether these are good.

The fit seems very tight and you can see how the male end isn't even fully seated.

If this is how they all look from Gotway then I won't do anything. If the consensus is that something looks wrong, I will solder the wires together.

I thought you might have some insight based on your use of bullet connectors.

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8 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

It's not that I'm replacing the connectors, I'm trying to determine whether these are good.

The fit seems very tight and you can see how the male end isn't even fully seated.

If this is how they all look from Gotway then I won't do anything. If the consensus is that something looks wrong, I will solder the wires together.

I thought you might have some insight based on your use of bullet connectors.

The connectors should marry together with a slight push. At least with a tight fit you won’t experience any electrical arcing. ;) 

On the opposite end of the spectrum here is a photo from Linnea to Jason last year when we were all replacing ACM boards. GW’s solution for loose bullet connectors was to physically spread the male blades for better contact. :furious:

40808422642_fd782a9d04_b.jpg

 

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Dear @Marty Backe, I don't know if you can give me this information, but would be possible to estimate the cost of this improvement? (new motor plus motherboard?)

I was considering whether to do it on my ACM or if it is more convenient to replace it completely...

Thanks

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26 minutes ago, FULspeed said:

Dear @Marty Backe, I don't know if you can give me this information, but would be possible to estimate the cost of this improvement? (new motor plus motherboard?)

I was considering whether to do it on my ACM or if it is more convenient to replace it completely...

I would say the big difference is that Marty is in the USA, with very, very fair Prices from ewheels.com.....while you are in France, the EUC highes cost Country.

So i dont know if the costs from Marty would help you a lot....

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4 hours ago, FULspeed said:

Dear @Marty Backe, I don't know if you can give me this information, but would be possible to estimate the cost of this improvement? (new motor plus motherboard?)

I was considering whether to do it on my ACM or if it is more convenient to replace it completely...

Thanks

Expect to pay between $400 and $500. Also, you will have to buy new pedal hangers since the thick axle of the ACM2 motor won't fit in the original ACM hangers.

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7 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Expect to pay between $400 and $500. Also, you will have to buy new pedal hangers since the thick axle of the ACM2 motor won't fit in the original ACM hangers.

Marty, curious if you have determined how much thicker the new axle is? Also is the bore diameter any larger to accept thicker motor wires other than 14awg? 

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On 3/16/2018 at 11:51 PM, Rehab1 said:

Sorry for my late reply. I was hugging a crying divorcee.

Am I the only one to pick up on this?  HUGGING A CRYING DIVORCEE!!!!! Don't tell me, it was your wife after you told her you bought a Tesla, right?

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1 hour ago, Smoother said:

Am I the only one to pick up on this?  HUGGING A CRYING DIVORCEE!!!!! Don't tell me, it was your wife after you told her you bought a Tesla, right?

Late on this one. Spoken like a skilled derailer. :) it was a sincere hug. My neighbor had to sell her home and broke down.

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7 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

Marty, curious if you have determined how much thicker the new axle is? Also is the bore diameter any larger to accept thicker motor wires other than 14awg? 

The axle is 2mm thicker, and the bore diameter is correspondingly larger. I measured the motor wires with a micrometer and they are also noticeably thicker. So very nice improvements all away around.

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On 3/21/2018 at 10:59 PM, Marty Backe said:

The axle is 2mm thicker, and the bore diameter is correspondingly larger. I measured the motor wires with a micrometer and they are also noticeably thicker. So very nice improvements all away around.

Correction @Rehab1. Turns out the axle is 3mm thicker. It takes a 24-mm wrench. So it's the same size as the Monster axle. Very nice upgrade.

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4 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Correction @Rehab1. Turns out the axle is 3mm thicker. It takes a 24-mm wrench. So it's the same size as the Monster axle. Very nice upgrade.

That is a nice upgrade! Is there any depiction on the wires indicating the awg? My silicone 14awg wires could have passed for 12awg because the insulation was thicker. Keep the positive upgrades coming Gotway!

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37 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

That is a nice upgrade! Is there any depiction on the wires indicating the awg? My silicone 14awg wires could have passed for 12awg because the insulation was thicker. Keep the positive upgrades coming Gotway!

The motor wires have that heat sheathing over each wire so I can't see the markings. But they are thicker yet the insulation type seems the same as the old ACM wire. So I believe it's thicker gauge. 

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2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

The motor wires have that heat sheathing over each wire so I can't see the markings. But they are thicker yet the insulation type seems the same as the old ACM wire. So I believe it's thicker gauge. 

Hopefully GW took advantage of the shaft being thicker and bore diameter larger. Enjoy! 

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19 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

Hopefully GW took advantage of the shaft being thicker and bore diameter larger. Enjoy! 

Yes, as mentioned above the bore hole is larger and the wires are a heavier gauge. Positive improvements all away around.

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31 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Yes, as mentioned above the bore hole is larger and the wires are a heavier gauge. Positive improvements all away around.

Bragger! I can already hear your comment: “I have a bigger shaft and bore diameter than you!” ;)

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