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New Mten3 Color Scheme in Progress


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  • 4 weeks later...
On 5/14/2019 at 3:02 AM, ChandlerAZ said:

Here are my 2 mten3 color schemes....I was inspired by @Marty Backe red and black mten3. 

IMG-0707.JPG

This is so nice! I'm looking to obtain a similar color scheme for my Mtens. Did you take Mtens apart for painting or used some masking tape to paint them in the assembled state?

Was it possible to paint over the foam pads using Rustoleum as well?

Is this kind of coating durable enough? I was thinking about using Plastidip. Thanks!

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30 minutes ago, BoisDeFruit said:

This is so nice! I'm looking to obtain a similar color scheme for my Mtens. Did you take Mtens apart for painting or used some masking tape to paint them in the assembled state?

Was it possible to paint over the foam pads using Rustoleum as well?

Is this kind of coating durable enough? I was thinking about using Plastidip. Thanks!

I can answer what I did. The wheel was not fully disassembled. The pads and pedals were removed along with the two center pop-off pieces. Everything was masked (tape and paper) including the tire.

Two coats of RUST-OLEUM on all the different parts. This includes the foam - takes paint nicely and so far has not rubbed off.

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12 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

I can answer what I did. The wheel was not fully disassembled. The pads and pedals were removed along with the two center pop-off pieces. Everything was masked (tape and paper) including the tire.

Two coats of RUST-OLEUM on all the different parts. This includes the foam - takes paint nicely and so far has not rubbed off.

My Mten3 was vinyl wrapped so it required removal of the trim but not the shells  The trim just snaps off. If you are considering a solid color or are adroit at airbrushing then I would just paint the shells. Much easier and less frustration. 

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1 hour ago, Esper said:

Since I'm in the process of working on my wheel, I should get a vinyl wrap. :D 

One thing good about using a vinyl wrap is that you can mess it up and then just tear off the material and start over. Wiping off a major Niagara Falls paint drip is a bit more frustrating.  Both the paint and the vinyl wrap methods work great but it just takes time if you want a nice outcome.

I plan to keep practicing using the vinyl wrap as one day I would like to wrap my patient’s cranial remolding bands. I just need a printer. 

48088383013_d4f2c1bca7_b.jpg

 

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59 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

One thing good about using a vinyl wrap is that you can mess it up and then just tear off the material and start over. Wiping off a major Niagara Falls paint drip is a bit more frustrating.  Both the paint and the vinyl wrap methods work great but it just takes time if you want a nice outcome.

I plan to keep practicing using the vinyl wrap as one day I would like to wrap my patient’s cranial remolding bands. I just need a printer. 

48088383013_d4f2c1bca7_b.jpg

 

Love your kiddo pictures :wub:

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5 hours ago, ChandlerAZ said:

I did take my Mten3 apart for painting, its not hard to do (just a little time consuming).  I used rustoleum on the pads and there is a little wear but its easy to touch up.

Thank you! But what kind of wear is it, just some natural thing? Now I'm a little concerned that the paint from the pads might somehow leave marks on the sneakers or on the inside of the trousers (in the places where they coincide). Never worked with Rustoleum, obviously :smartass: 

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13 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

One thing good about using a vinyl wrap is that you can mess it up and then just tear off the material and start over.

This is what they say about Plastidip paint as well, that you can peel it off after spraying. So you kind of get the best of the two worlds. (Never used it myself, though!)

maxresdefault.jpg

Edited by BoisDeFruit
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12 minutes ago, BoisDeFruit said:

This is what they say about Plastidip paint as well, that you can peel it off after spraying. So you kind of get the best of the two worlds. (Never used it myself, though!)

maxresdefault.jpg

I’ve never used Plastidip but it is interesting. It might be prudent to first experiment using a piece of plastic such as your wife’s favorite kitchen spatula. Just tell her Rehab1 highly recommended it. :cry2:

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6 hours ago, BoisDeFruit said:

Thank you! But what kind of wear is it, just some natural thing? Now I'm a little concerned that the paint from the pads might somehow leave marks on the sneakers or on the inside of the trousers (in the places where they coincide). Never worked with Rustoleum, obviously :smartass: 

I haven't seen any paint on my clothes.

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On 6/18/2019 at 11:19 AM, Marty Backe said:

I can answer what I did. The wheel was not fully disassembled. The pads and pedals were removed along with the two center pop-off pieces. Everything was masked (tape and paper) including the tire.

Two coats of RUST-OLEUM on all the different parts. This includes the foam - takes paint nicely and so far has not rubbed off.

For the Rustoleum, was that black, or did you need to paint the black overtop of it?

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30 minutes ago, Esper said:

Hey @Rehab1 what dimension of the vinyl did you purchase? I got a 1'x5' roll. I hope the 1' across is big enough. 

Mine was 3x5’. I allowed for mistakes which did happen. The material stretches so you should be ok with those dimensions. 

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18 minutes ago, BoisDeFruit said:

I did the liquid rubber thing to one of my Mtens, yay!

Aiming for a more “manly” look, I went for the “camo brown” color for the shell, but it somehow turned to be more of a cocoa-powdery-look (which I still do like).

The material I used is called Larex, a polyurethane-based alternative to Plastidip. People told me that it smells better (it does), contains less harmful substances and creates thicker coatings.

In fact, it’s just liquid rubber in a spray can. This is the first time I worked with it, and boy - it’s so great for our purposes!

First of all, it’s indeed thick (depends on how many layers you’d put, of course), durable and super-stretchy. So it’s great to put over the foam pads for protection - I was worried since mine began to erode after the first 100 km!

Then, it does add the scratch resistance and waterproofing.

In case of a major scratch (which reveals the shell) it’s possible to do a local touch-up with 1-2 layers.

Finally, it peels off easily so it’s possible to start off from scratch (pun intended).

Now that it has dried, judging by the way it reflects light, it looks like it has been wrapped in geniune leather. :efee6b18f3:

Cons: takes time to put on (you’re supposed to wait 15-30 minutes between each of the 6 layers). Slightly uneven color and thickness in some places (I believe this is due to how I sprayed the paint, should be better with experience).

It’s all matte for now, but there are also gloss finishing sprays available (which I will do the next time).

As for the outer rims, I used the original Plastidip Smoke spray (6 layers). It should be having an effect of the translucency as well, but we’ll see at nighttime.

 

IMG_4222.JPG

Awesome job! Your wheel looks brand new. :thumbup:

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The LED strip is definitely more pleasing to the eye with this Smoke coating. The light is softer and the strip itself is less visible. I couldn't take a photo which fully displays it, though.

The suede-esque impression is noticeable in this photo. I just love the way how everything looks now. Now let's see how this kind of coating behaves under normal riding conditions, and hopefully do the second wheel some time next week!

 

Enlight512.jpg

Edited by BoisDeFruit
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5 hours ago, BoisDeFruit said:

I did the liquid rubber thing to one of my Mtens, yay!

Aiming for a more “manly” look, I went for the “camo brown” color for the shell, but it somehow turned to be more of a cocoa-powdery-look (which I still do like).

The material I used is called Larex, a polyurethane-based alternative to Plastidip. People told me that it smells better (it does), contains less harmful substances and creates thicker coatings.

In fact, it’s just liquid rubber in a spray can. This is the first time I worked with it, and boy - it’s so great for our purposes!

First of all, it’s indeed thick (depends on how many layers you’d put, of course), durable and super-stretchy. So it’s great to put over the foam pads for protection - I was worried since mine began to erode after the first 100 km!

Then, it does add the scratch resistance and waterproofing.

In case of a major scratch (which reveals the shell) it’s possible to do a local touch-up with 1-2 layers.

Finally, it peels off easily so it’s possible to start off from scratch (pun intended).

Now that it has dried, judging by the way it reflects light, it looks like it has been wrapped in suede leather. :efee6b18f3:

Cons: takes time to put on (you’re supposed to wait 15-30 minutes between each of the 6 layers). Slightly uneven color and thickness in some places (I believe this is due to how I sprayed the paint, should be better with experience).

It’s all matte for now, but there are also gloss finishing sprays available (which I will do the next time).

As for the outer rims, I used the original Plastidip Smoke spray (6 layers). It should be having an effect on the translucency as well, but we’ll see at nighttime.

 

IMG_4222.JPG

Wow, that really does look nice. I think the first place I may try it is on pads. Thanks for the pictures and commentary :thumbup:

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35 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Wow, that really does look nice. I think the first place I may try it is on pads. Thanks for the pictures and commentary :thumbup:

It's a pleasure! I wouldn't have bought this EUC without your input, anyway :D 

I agree that the pads are indeed the #1 place this should be applied to, as an extra stretchy protective layer. Hopefully it can prevent the erosion.

I used about 6 or 7 layers on the pads (each from a different angle), achieving a thick coating. The first layer should be very "sketchy" (it will act as a bond between the surface and the subsequent layers). The pads dry much quicker than the plastic shell, hence that was quite easy.

Here on the picture I'm pushing very hard and the surface remains intact.

20190621_185735.GIF

Edited by BoisDeFruit
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9 minutes ago, BoisDeFruit said:

It's a pleasure! I wouldn't have bought this EUC without your input, anyway :D 

I agree that the pads are indeed the #1 place this should be applied to, as an extra stretchy protective layer. Hopefully it can prevent the erosion.

I used about 6 or 7 layers on the pads (each from a different angle), achieving a thick coating. The first layer should be very "sketchy" (it will act as a bond between the surface and the subsequent layers). The pads dry much quicker than the plastic shell, hence that was quite easy.

Here on the picture I'm pushing very hard and the surface remains intact.

20190621_185735.GIF

Nice, animated GIF too 👍

Definitely looks perfect for pads, and maybe even pad repair (filling in missing chunks).

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1 minute ago, Marty Backe said:

Nice, animated GIF too 👍

Definitely looks perfect for pads, and maybe even pad repair (filling in missing chunks).

Not so sure about the repairing, though. It doesn't have the required viscosity in order to be able to fill a noticeable chunk. I believe something else should be used to fill in the chunk and then this PU/Plastidip thing coats over the whole thing, making a nice even surface.

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13 minutes ago, BoisDeFruit said:

Not so sure about the repairing, though. It doesn't have the required viscosity in order to be able to fill a noticeable chunk. I believe something else should be used to fill in the chunk and then this PU/Plastidip thing coats over the whole thing, making a nice even surface.

Yes, that's exactly what I meant - didn't express myself clearly. Figured you could patch the foam with something and then cover it. :thumbup:

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