Popular Post s.m. Posted March 1, 2018 Popular Post Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) I was driving around for 1200km on my GT16 and the paint has been rubbed off where my shoes touch the surface on some points: After my second accident there were some scratches and cracks in the shell and some screws ripped off, too. This resulted in a soft and weak shell that was usable but the tire was rubbing when I went on the wheel with one foot first. Maybe because of this structurally softness I lost my fender when going offroad - I don't know but some day I had a wet ass and back when I was coming home ... So I thought I need a new shell, new fender and some new sidecovers and went to AliExpress: base shell $200.00 sidecover $70.00 /piece? fender $50.00 (wow ~2$/gram !!!) top cover $90.00 (now with led voltmeter) Gaiter Pad $32.00 /Pair ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Result $512.00 (when I need 2x sidecover) That's €420.- or 1722.- Reichsmark 80 years in the past (I'm from Germany) - a 1938 KDF Typ 60 'Volkswagen' should cost RM990.- when delivered When the plastic parts for my Rockwheel GT16 are more expensive than a 1938 Volkswagen I think I first have to check if I REALLY, REALLY NEED THIS. Short answer is: NOT NOW !!! I first dismantled everything and fixed the cracks in the shell with 2k glue, cutted the lower shell-parts off (which always scratched on bigger stones and curb edges in some situations) and reinforced the lower screwholes with another 2k filling material for wood. This material is hard and sticks well on the plastic but it's soft enough to not crack off when turning a screw in. First I thought about a cool shiny lamborghini yellow high glossy paint - but then I tended to a much more rough and tank-like styling. I choosed a 2k polyurethane color also known as 'bedliner' for pickup-trucks. I brush dabbed the colour by hand to get a light texture to the surface. If there are some bigger scratches or damages on the paint in the future it is more easy to dab with the brush invisibly. I changed all toy-like screws from the shell to high quality German 'Würth Assy' screws and mounted everything together. I generated a new fender (from a set of MTB plastic fenders for a few bucks) which fits in the old place - Simply to put in and out but not possible to slide anymore because of its different geometry. Now the shell is in excellent condition and when I step on the wheel with one foot first there is no rubbing and scrubbing anymore. Better than new and I think the shell was never that stiff before because even when it was new, while riding on one leg there always was a very slightly scrubbing. Although my method was so oldschool, the new painting looks much better than the original one that was made in China with spraygun where several places on the shell were not covered well with colour from all points of view. Additionally there is one big psychological advantage : on the next accident (and this is surely just a matter of time) I will only think "oh shit !!! Will my sunglasses survive ?" while my mind will stay totally cool about the shell. For the whole operation I paid not more than €50/$60 (bedliner:0.75ltr/€16.50 hardener:€3.50 MTB-Fender-set:€16,95) glue,2k-stuff,screws,sandpaper and some solvents were things I already had at home. Next things on my todo list is: Replace the non-water/dirtproof backlight max. €2.50 Replace the (crap-shitty-dark) frontlight max. €2.50 Add Mini-Voltmeter on the mainboard cover max. €3.00 Add some aditional LED's (but not crappy circus-style) max. €8.00 I have ordered these already on Amazon but I have to wait some time for delivery. The first frontlight LED has already arrived and I measured with a Lightmeter: Original GT16 Frontlight = 1900 Lux versus New LED frontlight = 6600 Lux It's a huge difference even without without measuring clearly visible with my eyes Because I ordered some different types of frontlights, I will wait until everything has been arrived and then choose the best one. I will make some pictures and a post from the electrical modification then, too. Edited March 1, 2018 by s.m. a little picture issue 11 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coffee guy Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 You are awesome and inspirational ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrd777 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Fabulous work, I love the texture. I’m still really enjoying my gt, it’s terrific. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yourtoys7 Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 Very, very impressive, paint should hold better than OEM, I assume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Impressive. Very nice work. Would love to know which lights you choose, and the link to them. Getting a better result at 1/10th the price. That's the way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.m. Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) I think this one seems to be the best : https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00VHKJVRU/ while this one is not bright at all : https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B077GQRQ65/ I did not mesure, but its 18w (which I don't believe) has the same brightness as the original LED from GT16. Unfortunately the Cops seized my loved GT16 and I hope I will get it back later this year - but I do'nt know, yet IF I WILL EVER GET IT BACK ... I contacted my lawyer, directly and now I have to wait 4 to 8 weeks to get any new info and I will spend a minimum of €900,- (for lawyer) plus a fine at unknown height. So for now all modification plans are stopped until further ... Edited March 11, 2018 by s.m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted March 12, 2018 Share Posted March 12, 2018 19 hours ago, s.m. said: Unfortunately the Cops seized my loved GT16 Oh Dear! That's terrible. What a shame. All that work and now it's gone. Sometimes I wonder why we (in countries where EUCs are illegal) even bother. I think I'll cross Germany off my European-visit list. You can honestly tell the judge, German law is hurting tourism, and quote me. Good luck. But I'm afraid that even if you get your wheel back, you will feel like you have a target on your back, every time you ride it. the same cops are out there, and seeing you wheel will be like a big F.you to them, and cops don't like being told, F.you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.m. Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 (edited) Now I have ridden my new rockwheels a few kilometers (~1000km's each) and some day I was hitting a stone really hard while the tire pressure was a little bit too low. The result was a damaged rim and a bent motor axle. My attempt to repair the rim resulted in a crack in the aluminium - sorry, no photo yet. But fortunately @Scatcat sold me all his old GT16 stuff and I planned to use his V2 motor instead of mine. But as I dismanteled his blue GT16 I first realized slightly different connectors as on my V3 - the motor power did not have a MT60 connector and the hallsensor connector was mounted in opposite direction - but then I found the cable damaged on the neuralgic position where it leaves the motor and goes upside on a direction of 90 degrees with nearly no radius. So I decided to dismantle the motor to just use the rim first, and later on (some day in the far future) I can replace the whole cable set from Scatcat's stator. I first bent the axle on my stator in the right direction by hand with a tolerance of maybe less than 0.1mm (exactly 1mm on 50cm measuring distance) then I cleaned everything very well (mainly Scatcat's rim) and put my stator in. I found the hole for the valve had a very sharp edge so I fixed this, too Because I love wet terrain I sealed everything: BUT NOW THE BEST PART: The new tire on my GT16 motor is a premium 16x2.5" where you can put your tools and screws on (I think this is for better torque in winter) I just had to rise the shell +18mm (another story) and now I have a kind of GT18. Notice: the photo gives a slightly wrong impression - the right wheel has a flat tire at the moment. And @Scatcat I think you recognize your spiked footpads - BEST GRIP EVER ! The few kilometers on my first testride were a joy because this tire is really excellent and feels really good on rough terrain. Now I'm angry on myself as I only ordered one of these because of the high price - but now I know that I need a second one for my other GT16 and a third one just to be prepared ... Edited April 24, 2019 by s.m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatcat Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 10 hours ago, s.m. said: Now I have ridden my new rockwheels a few kilometers (~1000km's each) and some day I was hitting a stone really hard while the tire pressure was a little bit too low. The result was a damaged rim and a bent motor axle. My attempt to repair the rim resulted in a crack in the aluminium - sorry, no photo yet. But fortunately @Scatcat sold me all his old GT16 stuff and I planned to use his V2 motor instead of mine. But as I dismanteled his blue GT16 I first realized slightly different connectors as on my V3 - the motor power did not have a MT60 connector and the hallsensor connector was mounted in opposite direction - but then I found the cable damaged on the neuralgic position where it leaves the motor and goes upside on a direction of 90 degrees with nearly no radius. So I decided to dismantle the motor to just use the rim first, and later on (some day in the far future) I can replace the whole cable set from Scatcat's stator. I first bent the axle on my stator in the right direction by hand with a tolerance of maybe less than 0.1mm (exactly 1mm on 50cm measuring distance) then I cleaned everything very well (mainly Scatcat's rim) and put my stator in. I found the hole for the valve had a very sharp edge so I fixed this, too Because I love wet terrain I sealed everything: BUT NOW THE BEST PART: The new tire on my GT16 motor is a premium 16x2.5" where you can put your tools and screws on (I think this is for better torque in winter) I just had to rise the shell +18mm (another story) and now I have a kind of GT18. Notice: the photo gives a slightly wrong impression - the right wheel has a flat tire at the moment. And @Scatcat I think you recognize your spiked footpads - BEST GRIP EVER ! The few kilometers on my first testride were a joy because this tire is really excellent and feels really good on rough terrain. Now I'm angry on myself as I only ordered one of these because of the high price - but now I know that I need a second one for my other GT16 and a third one just to be prepared ... Well the spikes are best-grip studs! I only screwed in a few, to avoid the @Rehab1 experience, with feet glued to the pedals when you really need to jump off... Nice work on the motor. The connector problem didn't event cross my mind. I really hope everything will work out fine. That is a really awesome tire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unventor Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 Do you know if there is something similar in tyre size18x2.5"? My KS18L stock tire is starting to show some wear at 1900ish Km of use. So I am starting to warm up to getting an extra tyre and tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.m. Posted April 25, 2019 Author Share Posted April 25, 2019 No, I don't - I think there must be a similar one, maybe not on Aliexpress. A dedicated tire-shop should be the better address (but not any standard bycicle-tire shop) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PogArt Artur Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 4 hours ago, Scatcat said: Well the spikes are best-grip studs! I only screwed in a few, to avoid the @Rehab1 experience, with feet glued to the pedals when you really need to jump off... Nice work on the motor. The connector problem didn't event cross my mind. I really hope everything will work out fine. That is a really awesome tire! May I ask you for some more details @Scatcat regarding spikes please? I think I'm interested to fix some,and I'd love to know what to use,how to fix and what to avoid Thank you in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatcat Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 (edited) 21 hours ago, PogArt Artur said: May I ask you for some more details @Scatcat regarding spikes please? I think I'm interested to fix some,and I'd love to know what to use,how to fix and what to avoid Thank you in advance http://www.best-grip.com/site/en/prodotti/tutti-i-prodotti/ I used the 1000 variant. I used the same studs for my 18x2.5 motocross tire during the sleet and snow this winter. While the racket going on clean asphalt is awesome, so is the grip on ice, snow, and other nuisances... Actually the carbide steel is hard enough and sharp enough to secure a good grip even on asphalt and concrete... I screwed in four to six such studs into the rubber on each pedal on the GT16, two in front and two under the heal to secure my stand in both directions and the last ones to the sides. More than that felt like overdoing it, making it too hard to move my feet when needed, but those few made me much less wary in hard turns and jumps. Especially in wet conditions when not even the grip tape is flawless. There are other brands than best grip, but I'd be careful to choose one that has the "flat" screw, somewhat like an ice drill/wooden drill, so that there are no points towards the inside of the tire. For the pedals I suppose that makes less of a difference, I chose the best-grips because I had them lying around. Edited April 26, 2019 by Scatcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PogArt Artur Posted April 26, 2019 Share Posted April 26, 2019 2 hours ago, Scatcat said: http://www.best-grip.com/site/en/prodotti/tutti-i-prodotti/ I used the 1000 variant. I used the same studs for my 18x2.5 motocross tire during the sleet and snow this winter. While the racket going on clean asphalt is awesome, so is the grip on ice, snow, and other nuisances... Actually the carbide steel is hard enough and sharp enough to secure a good grip even on asphalt and concrete... I screwed in four to six such studs into the rubber on each pedal on the GT16, two in front and two under the heal to secure my stand in both directions and the last ones to the sides. More than that felt like overdoing it, making it too hard to move my feet when needed, but those few made me much less wary in hard turns and jumps. Especially in wet conditions when not even the grip tape is flawless. There are other brands than best grip, but I'd be careful to choose one that has the "flat" screw, somewhat like an ice drill/wooden drill, so that there are no points towards the inside of the tire. For the pedals I suppose that makes less of a difference, I chose the best-grips because I had them lying around. Thank you very much for that information and the link! I love this idea of improved grip, but I won't do it myself,unless I could follow some YouTube tutorial ... I've never been dealing with any spikes in my life, and I've checked the spikes on that website you've kindly provided... I can see the 1000 variant, but have no clue how to fix those spikes to the Ninebot One E+ pedal... The top is made with aluminium... Should I drill the exact holes into that aluminium, and then screwed into those spikes..? I've never have done anything like this, lol Thank you anyway @Scatcat I just need to see somebody doing it, if you know I mean Then I can follow Thank you again, I've saved the website Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatcat Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 On 4/26/2019 at 5:34 PM, PogArt Artur said: Thank you very much for that information and the link! I love this idea of improved grip, but I won't do it myself,unless I could follow some YouTube tutorial ... I've never been dealing with any spikes in my life, and I've checked the spikes on that website you've kindly provided... I can see the 1000 variant, but have no clue how to fix those spikes to the Ninebot One E+ pedal... The top is made with aluminium... Should I drill the exact holes into that aluminium, and then screwed into those spikes..? I've never have done anything like this, lol Thank you anyway @Scatcat I just need to see somebody doing it, if you know I mean Then I can follow Thank you again, I've saved the website I have never owned a ninebot e+. But looking at it, it seems to be the same style as on my MSX: That is, a one piece bottom then rubber then a screwed on aluminium plate with slats for the rubber to stick out. I guess it would be fairly trivial to screw the studs into the rubber in the front and back, they should fit just fine. They look a lot larger on the site than they are in reality, and you can order a handy "bit" with the studs for using with a bit screwdriver - electric or manual. Screwing them in is no harder than screwing in a normal screw, as long as you secure the stud well into the bit and keep an even medium strong pressure when you screw it in (to avoid unnecessary tearing in the rubber). So unless the slats in the aluminium is more narrow than they look, it should be doable in under five minutes - ten if you need to breathe deeply between the studs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 (edited) Amazing work guys, lots of respect! One option for increased foot pedal grip is to replace the stock grip (~120 grit) with a very rough 40 grit sanding sheet. Choice of glue depends on the pedal, but a construction glue/mass should do nicely even on rubber. Many people who tried my wheel almost fell when unmounting since the shoe stayed on so well. Edited April 29, 2019 by mrelwood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PogArt Artur Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 6 hours ago, Scatcat said: I have never owned a ninebot e+. But looking at it, it seems to be the same style as on my MSX: That is, a one piece bottom then rubber then a screwed on aluminium plate with slats for the rubber to stick out. I guess it would be fairly trivial to screw the studs into the rubber in the front and back, they should fit just fine. They look a lot larger on the site than they are in reality, and you can order a handy "bit" with the studs for using with a bit screwdriver - electric or manual. Screwing them in is no harder than screwing in a normal screw, as long as you secure the stud well into the bit and keep an even medium strong pressure when you screw it in (to avoid unnecessary tearing in the rubber). So unless the slats in the aluminium is more narrow than they look, it should be doable in under five minutes - ten if you need to breathe deeply between the studs Thank you very much! So they go into those rubber slots, so no drilling any additional holes is necessary... This is what I wasn't sure. You're very accurate regarding the pedal structure on E+, it can be easy done Because of you I'm keep thinking of little addition of the spikes, though. I think in 99% I won't do it, as the extra coarse grip tape should be more than fine, for grip improvement, but there's 1% that I might try to fit maybe three spikes only per pedal, at the front,back and a side... But I know already it won't be necessary at all Thank you for keen explanation, it seems to be straight forward job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 Hi @s.m. Sick paint job you got there. Didn't know there was a hand-paintable polyurethane coating out there! May I know where I could find this and how it works? Cure time, etc. Also curious how's it holding up after two years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.m. Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 On 9/7/2020 at 5:20 AM, Tinkererboi said: Hi @s.m. Sick paint job you got there. Didn't know there was a hand-paintable polyurethane coating out there! May I know where I could find this and how it works? Cure time, etc. Also curious how's it holding up after two years? There is no special handpaintable polyurethane - I simply did not have the special gun - so I took a brush and spotted the paint on the surface by hand. But after a few days my wheel was confiscated by the police and I never got it back again. So I don't know how it would be after two years.... But: read on next post... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted September 22, 2020 Share Posted September 22, 2020 3 hours ago, s.m. said: There is no special handpaintable polyurethane - I simply did not have the special gun - so I took a brush and spotted the paint on the surface by hand. But after a few days my wheel was confiscated by the police and I never got it back again. So I don't know how it would be after two years.... But: read on next post... Super interesting! So all that line-x marketing about some special high tech spray gun that mixes the hardener in mid-air and only trained certified tecnicians can use which was supposedly the only way to get it on otherwise the product would just harden in a split second was... bullshit all along A pity to hear! Must have missed out the police part in my first reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.m. Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 (edited) Repairs and mods on my GT16 - second part: I bought 2x new GT16's - the second one was "just for the case" (cops, damage, apocalypse...) I rode both wheels around 1000km, each and then there were enough scuffs and scratches (and blood) to start again with modifications and renovation. I did the whole stuff as described earlier in this topic, except the rim, and this time I used the special gun to get the Paint on the surface. I thought it would be mich easier to get the paintjob done and to reach every spot on the housing easily - I was right. Gt16 , friend's MSuper , my oldGotway MCM2 I had to replace the original holding profiles from the trolley because one was torn off, so I decided to make them new from aluminum profile and glued them on with two component "Liquid Metal". I put some small wood pieces (oak) into the profile to get the grip-piece screwed on adequately. This time I was mounting the LED-stripes and replaced the original headlight with a stronger one. To avoid damaging the board I simply left the backlight untouched but used the frontlight connector for a relay that switches a 5A (60W) stepdown-converter from 84v to 12v for powering the two strips + headlight directly from the battery. Next thing is a very GT16 specific issue: the knee-pads are glued to the housing and that was a really crappy shit idea. When you have to change a tire you have to remove the pads - and then ? You have to glue it on again - but you know that you have to remove it again in (hopefully far) future ... I decided to use some kneepads from the workwear store and attached some snap buttons on the pads and on the housing of the motherboard and the battery covers. There's a small space between the battery packs where I carry the tools for complete dismantling of the wheel plus tire repair kit on one side and a spare tube (if tire repair is impossible) on the other side. I had to repair my tire just a few days ago in the middle of nowhere - I remove the sidepads and batterycovers (8 screws in total) and then I have to pull the motor wires - it takes around 5 minutes to get my motor out of the wheel.... The fences in the air holes are simply cut by hand, white colour-spray and hotglue to fix. Looks much better.... Edited September 22, 2020 by s.m. description of the last image. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s.m. Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 The product I used was "U-Pol Raptor" You can see especially on the last picture above - the structure looks much better when sprayed, instead of spotted by hand. But the pistol was around 150€. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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