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ninebot e+ tried to kill me


exoplanet
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I was riding along minding my business. The wheel shut off suddenly then came awake again while I was riding. Happened above 10kmh i think.

I could make it happen by dipping my toes at say 15 kmh.

Should not happen. would guess some software problem or  perhaps the start button. Btw. I got the other one to work again with a new battery.

 

does an update fix the problemm?

 

This shouldn''t be happening.

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Clearly it is not trying to kill you, it just wants attention. You might want to look at the motor wiring and connections. If it did't dump you at 10km/h it was not a full shutdown. It's a slipper slope though; remember HAL. 

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I will try the calibration and the wire checking

By the way. what can be wrong with one of my batteries? it says fully charged, but only gives the wheel juice for a single beep before switching off. as if it was empty or so  overcharged it doesnt want to work.

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11 hours ago, exoplanet said:

By the way. what can be wrong with one of my batteries? it says fully charged, but only gives the wheel juice for a single beep before switching off. as if it was empty or so  overcharged it doesnt want to work.

Sounds like the behavior of a battery with a very high internal resistance.  Since these are lithium batteries though it is more likely you have some dead cells and the charger is destroying the others by over charging the pack.  you need to remove that pack and not use it with the good battery.  This could cause lots of issues.  Have the pack tested by someone with the capability to do so, or if it is relatively new you maybe able to get a warranty replacement.

 

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basically, but if your pack is truly reporting proper voltage as if each cell is charged to 4.2V, but does not deliver the capacity, it is a good idea to first measure the voltage of each cell, or one in each parallel pack to see if any overcharging has occurred to make up the voltage loss from any bad cells.   If the flaw has caused the other cells to be over charged this is very bad and may have destroyed all the cells, which will be hard to detect without a battery analyzer.  if it turns out the real voltage of the pack is not really what it should be and no cells have been over charged a few times, then you can still try to first find the bad cells by checking the voltage of each cell.  Then as you say you'll need to confirm them by charge discharge cycle with true capacity measurement.   Still the way you describe the problem it seems like the pack is really toast rather than just a bad cell, but it's possible some internal high discharge is happening to really cut the capacity.  If the pack just sits does it self discharge really fast?   Anyway I think you have enough to ge on and start investigations, but it sounds like a pretty serious issue if your description is correct.

 

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I had an issue with my battery pack where one of the cells was out of balance.  I was continuously topping off the charge rather than letting the battery get down in voltage very much due to just going on short rides.  Over time this appears to have allowed one of the cells get out of balance due to a difference in internal resistance of the cells and not giving it enough time during charging to balance.  This resulted in the BMS cutting out on me on a ride.

I opened up my pack and checked the balance of cells.  Then with an RC charger, I charged individual cells to get it all back to about 4V/cell.  At this point I did a discharge test down to about 3.4V then did a full charge with the charger and all cells balanced perfectly.  I wouldn't worry about it damaging the other cells from this if it's only a single cell really low.  For example, if one cell was at the cutoff voltage of 3.2V the remainder of cells would only need to be at 4.27V to indicate a fully charged battery.

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2 minutes ago, exoplanet said:

what is an rc charger? remote control?

yes.  A charger used for LiPo and other types of batteries popular in the remote control hobby.  If you don't have one and want to purchase one, I would recommend one that is good for multiple battery chemistries (LiPo, LiFe, Pb, etc) and multiple cells (ie 1-6s)
I had good luck with this one while I owned it (before getting something bigger):  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0

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It would work for discharging but that is not a very controlled method since you have to have something to set and hold the wires a certain distance apart to set the current discharge rate and monitor the voltage closely.

But before you discharge, you really need to check the balance of the cells.  If one is already low, you have to get it back up before you would be able to discharge the pack because the BMS will just cut off the whole pack when a single cell gets too low.

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/02/2018 at 7:41 PM, Cranium said:

@exoplanet, your reputation on the forum is quite bad (-17 as of this post).  If you are actually seeking help with your EUC many people are here to help and take your questions seriously.  But if you follow it up with something that is obviously stupid, people will feel you are just trying to troll and will stop even trying to assist you.

I won't try to help you again until your reputation improves. 

We now think EVERYTHING @exoplanet has been writing on this forum is complete rubbish, it looks quite likely he does not own any EUC and is possibly a child. He has now started to become extremely obstructive and is creating multiple accounts.

This, and any further accounts he tries to create will be closed down and I have locked this thread as his descriptions of what was happening to “his” Ninebot are very likely to be complete lies. (Who has ever managed to stay on a wheel that “shuts down and then wakes up again whilst I’m still riding”?)

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