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New Inmotion V10 / V10F


Pingouin

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28 minutes ago, Justina said:

Hahaha :D I feel you - I wasted 3 hours once, using alcohol (recommended) and a hair dryer (not really recommended) :D It's not bad when you use the original 3M tape for few days, but after few months... it's a pain to get it off :D 

Short tip to both @Justina @novazeus 

Clear lamp oil seem to be my best "chemical" solution to speed up the resolve the glue. Then isopropyl alcohol then lamp oil dry off keep going like this. I have yet to find any sticky glue that can resist this treatment. I haven't test this on hotglue-gavin glue. But work wonders on any other glue.

 

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18 minutes ago, Unventor said:

I hope you are doing them in English. My Polish skills are like a black hole. 

 

Yes, all new vids are in English :P For older videos there are English subtitles ;) 

 

About residue removers: I've tried "Label Killer" once, on a Ninebot One E+ - it worked like a charm. The only side effect was... glossy white turned into matte white hahahaha :D But Ninebot One shells were very gentle. I would like to try out that lamp oil, but I don't use paddings any more. But sometimes I still have nightmares where I'm scraping the residue for hours... ?

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1 minute ago, Justina said:

Yes, all new vids are in English :P For older videos there are English subtitles ;) 

 

About residue removers: I've tried "Label Killer" once, on a Ninebot One E+ - it worked like a charm. The only side effect was... glossy white turned into matte white hahahaha :D But Ninebot One shells were very gentle. I would like to try out that lamp oil, but I don't use paddings any more. But sometimes I still have nightmares where I'm scraping the residue for hours... ?

Hehe old film...Karate-kid springs to mind...wax on...wax off....

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30 minutes ago, Justina said:

About residue removers: I've tried "Label Killer" once, on a Ninebot One E+ - it worked like a charm. The only side effect was... glossy white turned into matte white hahahaha :D But Ninebot One shells were very gentle. I would like to try out that lamp oil, but I don't use paddings any more. But sometimes I still have nightmares where I'm scraping the residue for hours... ?

Cooking oil works great and won’t harm surface. Remove cooking oil with soap and water or baby wipe. 

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7 hours ago, that0n3guy said:

I just had this happen.   Since I don't have sounds, I don't know if it was saying "overload".  I'm at 90% battery though. 

I think I might know how to duplicate it:

  • set your tiltback around 22 or 23 mph... not max (I don't get tiltback at 24mph when I set mine on max)
  • find a long hill, nothing crazy steep, but enough that would make you avoid it if you were riding a bike :).
  • bomb up the hill, once you hit tiltback, just let up a little so your not accelerating, but your slowing down very slowly.
  • The tilt back will keep pushing back until you have to stop and turn off the machine to get it out of the 45 degree angle

I still had my tiltback at 15 MPH and don't want to go that fast but this does describe what happened to me pretty well. 

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Curious what PSI people are running. I got a good pump today and took it up to 55 PSI and I think that was too much. It felt almost slippery I think I was running around 40 PSI last night but I am not a light dude (220 lbs/100Kg) and thought that I should use more air because of that. What PSI do you guys recommend for the V10. Also does anyone know if the overload is because of wattage or temp and if temp what temp causes it?

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12 minutes ago, scap said:

I still had my tiltback at 15 MPH and don't want to go that fast but this does describe what happened to me pretty well. 

Yeah, it probably doesn't matter what speed tilt back is, it could be pushing into tiltback causes it... 

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1 minute ago, scap said:

Curious what PSI people are running. I got a good pump today and took it up to 55 PSI and I think that was too much. It felt almost slippery I think I was running around 40 PSI last night but I am not a light dude (220 lbs/100Kg) and thought that I should use more air because of that. What PSI do you guys recommend for the V10. Also does anyone know if the overload is because of wattage or temp and if temp what temp causes it?

I'm running 37psi, but it might be too low.  I'm probably 205lbs with gear on.  I'm going to go to 40 or 45 tomorrow and see how it feels.

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i’m running 45psi, which is 5 over the sidewall marking, and i’m 200 pounds.

to play music, on my samsung phones, i go to connections, bluetooth and then connect to unicycle audio. just did it moments ago and it works. 

for me, i have zero issues with this wheel as far as accelerating and braking goes, and since my ride one way is about 2200’ with not enough skill/pavement to do a 180, i do a lot of starting and braking. i mean zero issues, like this wheel is better than my other ones. i don’t have any problems stopping any of them but the 18s isn’t the easiest to slow to a crawl, a little tippy.

idk how anybody can evaluate a wheel, a car, a motorcycle etc without checking and adjusting the tire pressure. it is a very big deal on wheeled vehicles, duh!

the only negative i have for the riding characteristics of the v10f is i tend to go faster on it than my other wheels. i suspect this is partly due to the mounting of the tire in the opposite direction of the tread pattern. 

Edited by novazeus
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So, I felt like I was starting to get a feel for my V10F tonight while out riding with my son (he on my trusty MTen3), and wouldn't you know, I got it too: the metal-on-metal scraaape scraaape scraaape SCRAAAPE SCRAAAPE SCRAAAPE....  The scraping came and went as we made our way home. Naturally, it got loudest and crustiest as we had to pass by some pedestrians. So embarrassing. I stopped, flipped it over, spun it around from both sides and couldn't find any debris stuck inside. I got some video clips if anyone needs them, but not, unfortunately, from one of its louder phases. I'm still on my first battery charge, with less than 40km logged, and, as a beginner for this size, I have yet to really open up the throttle. I'll be getting in touch with @Jason McNeil for my return as well.

Edited by beast@tanagra
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18 minutes ago, Mrd777 said:

I’m out, moving on... Seriously disappointed that my new wheel came in this condition, why can’t quality control roll each wheel before shipping it out?

i’m so common sense, practical, cheap right there with u. i built million dollar custom homes and everything you could touch or use in that home had already been touched and tested by me. and i built these mega mansions from scratch, i wasn’t just a middle man delivering something made under perfect conditions as opposed to building something in the middle of the woods, sometimes. 

i remember reading something somewhere about dealers not being able to break the factory seal and euc manufacturers made the dealers eat warranty, idk but if i sell u something, and have to ship it to u, i’d wanna know it was working before i boxed it up. i’d probably shoot a video, film is so cheap these days.

if i sold wheels for a living, i’d personally inspect every wheel before sending it out, because freight has gotten ridiculously expensive, thanks to amazon, and i wouldn’t wanna waste money on shipping costs.

i use to build rc helis and i forget how many bearings those kits came with but it was a bunch and i would analyze and sometimes upgrade, based on previous experience of known bearing failures, every bearing that made up that helicopter. bearing quality is a big deal.

i don’t blame u and i don’t know what u like in a wheel but it is a shame because this is my favorite wheel. i try to ride at 15mph, so hardly a gotway candidate.

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There definitely needs to be a lot higher quality control especially on a long anticipated wheel.  I know factories want to rush these out to excited consumers, but due to the distance, cost to ship, and disappointment in getting a defective product, there really should be a testing rig to run these for a few minutes on.  I'm sure @Rehab1 could devise some sort of set up.  Likely you would only need some spinning drums, a way to mount the wheel so it stays in contact on top of the drum, apply a set weight of 180 lbs on the pedals, and add a tilting mechanism that leans the shell forwards and backwards with a lever.  Do that a few times to test speeds, tiltback, listen for sounds, vibrations, test for temperature levels, and you're done.  Do a quick spray and wipe clean of the tire, and Bob's your uncle.

Dealers should consider PDI checks as lots can happen during shipping.  My Ninebot One E+ came with a broken seal, but I assumed it was customs that wanted to take a look.  If it was the dealer doing a pre-delivery inspection I would have been fine with that too.  Maybe slap on a dealer inspected seal after the fact if you want to to make people who are concerned about seals happy.  But would consumers mind the added costs that PDI checks might add to the cost of wheels?  If say it adds $50 to have a wheel PDI'd then so be it.  That sure would beat the disappointment and hassle of returning it and waiting again for something else.  Just my opinion.  :whistling: 

Sometimes the lack of manpower can be an issue.  For Jason, he would need to hire someone at his LA warehouse depot to do the checks.  There's always logistics involved in something like this, but it can be a value added service.  One could advertise - All wheels sold by us are pre-checked for your peace of mind.  It doesn't guarantee issues won't develop later on, but at least some of these early detected issues would be caught.  Rule number one of EUC first batch release club is to make 100% sure they are golden / perfect / ideal as it really has a bad impact on first impressions if a wheel is a dud.

Edited by Hunka Hunka Burning Love
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13 minutes ago, Jpd said:

I also had problems with my wheel, noises that started within 20km of riding. I will say that inmotion has been very good at making things right. They had a wheel air shipped to me from the factory within 2 weeks of reporting the problem. I think when 3rd party vendors are involved there is always a possibility of things going wrong. I would give inmotion a chance to make it right , the v10f is an awesome wheel you will really like it! 

Yeah, I respect that. I'm not necessarily turned off from Inmotion or from what the V10F could be once the teething issues are worked out -- I'm very likely still going to buy a V5F for my kids -- but this seems like a very high rate of serious issues almost right out of the box, and I don't know if I'm going to trust this model anytime soon. If I have the option to trade it for something else, I intend to take it and get back out there with my son.

P.S. My tire was also mounted backwards ? ?

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36 minutes ago, TechShizzle said:

Has anyone else run into the “loose” or “sloppy” motion of the wheel? Mine rotates about 5-10 degrees before the motor engages. It’s the same forward or backward.

nope.

if u haven't, u might try the apple version, i've had better luck there and try the calibration stuff.

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8 hours ago, soulson said:

I've now had this happen twice, both times on flat road, after a vigorous burst of acceleration, with the speed limiter set to 40kph (max). Neither time did I get any "overload" sound alert, but I've realized that my machine no longer makes any sounds at all. I don't know why; I didn't use the erase functionality of the app and I didn't turn the volume all the way down.

Has anybody else's tail light stopped working?

Todays' ride was about 20 miles of dirt and road, much of it hilly, my ride weight is 200lbs, started at 95% battery, ended at 35% battery, I set speed to max, tire is at stock inflation.

https://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/2760254019?share_unique_id=16

I had KICKBACK 4 times, all times toward the end of the ride. I pushed it a lot harder towards the beginning of the ride. picture is of a tiltback. It leans all the way back to this when it kicks me off, I need to hit the handle transport button to reset.  First time was flat at 20+mph when battery was about 40%, other three times was going up a fairly steep hill also trying to go as fast as i can but really, not going that fast at all <10mph. It's the first flat kickback that worries me, as I was going 20+mph when it gradually leaned to where I had to jump off. Problem was I was still going about 7-8mph when i didn't have enough kickback balance to stay on and had to jump so i had to do a quick run to grab the wheel. I left the wheel in it's tilted state for the picture before I reset. I don't have system sounds since I did an ERASE DATA after the last diagnose wouldn't erase the OVERLOAD error so now I don't know what the warning is for kickback. When i check diagnose no saved warning showed up.

and my tail light and audio bluetooth still works fine

NEWBY WOBBLE QUESTION:

I notice wobble when I go above 20mph. Is this due to my legs being shaky or does it have to do with resonance of the wind due to speed? I notice it more when I lean forward as in bow down to counter the wind. 

 

20180607_180418 (1).jpg

Edited by maltocs
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I used to get that wobble when crouching into wind as well, but I don't really get it anymore. I actually get it even less with the V10F than my previous wheel – a regular old V5. I don't think it has to do with wind; it happened for me in the past when I would crouch to scratch an itch or duck a tree branch, too.

Edited by soulson
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2 minutes ago, soulson said:

I used to get that wobble when crouching into wind as well, but I don't really get it anymore. I actually get it even less with the V10F than my previous wheel – a regular old V5. I don't think it has to do with wind; it happened for me in the past when I would crouch to scratch an itch or duck a tree branch, too.

Yeah, I figured it had to do with my legs. When i'm standing up straight, i'm able to check my watch or phone to see the speed, but when i'm crouching, i'm not stable enough to crouch and check my stats so wasn't sure if i was actually going faster. I do notice an incredible amount of wind noise when i'm going fast, my front facing body is like a 20mph wall. I hope the wobble will go away with experience. Actually, the wobble is the only thing holding me back from going faster so maybe it's a good thing for my safety anyways. 

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2 hours ago, maltocs said:

I had KICKBACK 4 times, all times toward the end of the ride. I pushed it a lot harder towards the beginning of the ride. picture is of a tiltback. It leans all the way back to this when it kicks me off, I need to hit the handle transport button to reset. 

 

InMotion may need to add a third CPU since it looks obvious that the redundancy between the existing two does not work as expected... ???

Not kidding, that will probably be taking care of with a firmware upgrade. But I am more worried about the weak bearings used on those wheels. If there is a part that should not be undersized, that is really that one! 

Edited by Fastmike
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32 minutes ago, Fastmike said:

 

InMotion may need to add a third CPU since it looks obvious that the redundancy between the existing two does not work as expected... ???

Not kidding, that will probably be taking care of with a firmware upgrade. But I am more worried about the weak bearings used on those wheels. If there is a part that should not be undersized, that is really that one! 

Bearing is a problem, but it is less of a safety issue than axle or pedal crack, blown fuse, burned mosfet, etc... so don’t really agree with your statement.

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