Jump to content

New Inmotion V10 / V10F


Recommended Posts

Just now, Demargon said:

I get the same tilt behaviour every time after calibrating it. I'm start to regret buying the v10f

The question is: Does this 'forward tilt disappear' at your wheel? At mine - no chance. And as posted, my V5F runs fine on the same routes.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 3.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Definitely don't want you to be stuck without a wheel, and you shouldn't have to be repairing a brand new one, so we are gonna make it right. Just got off a chat with @Bobwheel and we'll hook you up w

I agree that the company is too tight for the information about V10, and I am little upset too.  The reason we do this way is: We want to keep our engineer and manufacture teams away from distrac

Hey, I've been trolling this site (can you say voyeur) for about 3 months, decided to put my 2 cents in. First of all thank you for all of your input/info, this is the best site for quality info on EU

Posted Images

1 hour ago, Demargon said:

It seems my v10f problem with the rim hit comes worsen. I been talking with the inmotion post sale department and they proposed a engine replacement for what I get a 400€ bill.

They didn't assume the costs because is my blame for using it like they show in his promo:

And this is the result when I ride the same (with my 60kg of weight and 38 years old):

 

 

5

Looking at your tire and the scrapes on the body near the tire, looks like you hit some rock or something at just the WRONG angle. At your weight with the right tire pressure, you should be able to bounce off almost anything STRAIGHT ON without messing up your RIM. Here's a cut to Stan Onymous weighting a little more than you on his V10F doing down stairs and I see hiim go off high sidewalk curbs a lot. Sorry about your rim :(

 

Edited by maltocs
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/24/2018 at 8:12 PM, Jrosenzweig said:

Least your wheel still works after upgrade, mine has CAN BUS error and says please repair, I tried initiating upgrade with my iPad pro and same behavior. It's a paper weight right now , waiting for a response on what needs to happen because can still connect via Bluetooth when plugged in.

A friend of mine (non in the forum) has the same problem and I ve no idea about what he can do to solve the problem @Bobwheel

Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, MBIKER_SURFER said:

OF course. I'm doing that in the meantime 'on the fly' ?

I remember after upgrading to fw v2.2.7, my pedal horizontal adjustment was a little off. I had to do the SCV Correction / "Car Body Turning and Forward Correction" calibration and something reset and it was fine after that. I didn't have to do anything when I went to v2.2.8. But if you've already tried that, dunno what to say. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, phatmike said:

A friend of mine (non in the forum) has the same problem and I ve no idea about what he can do to solve the problem @Bobwheel

I worked directly with Bob on this and we tried a bunch of things and ended up having to replace control board. Good luck!

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Jrosenzweig said:

I worked directly with Bob on this and we tried a bunch of things and ended up having to replace control board. Good luck!

Control board? Is it the mainboard or is there a second board?

As said, the mainboard is replaced -> got a new serial no.!

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, maltocs said:

On yesterday's test, you'll notice I was NOT able to get higher than 70C on the mainboard temp. I would just turn it off, wait for the fan to stop (about 10s), then immediately turn it back on and get right back to riding. Those two temps have to be related in some way. Maybe raise that tolerance 5 to 10C? 

As i have read here somewhere as Information from Bobwhee actually the temperature presented in the app is NOT the real heatsink/Mosfet temperature!

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 minutes ago, MBIKER_SURFER said:

Control board? Is it the mainboard or is there a second board?

As said, the mainboard is replaced -> got a new serial no.!

You both are speaking About different Problems...you want Information on the "tilt" issue….

jrosenzweig answers to a Problem where someone had a serious update/Firmware Problem.

Link to post
Share on other sites
58 minutes ago, Jrosenzweig said:

That's the same board...

Hm - that was changed on Monday. More than frustrating. Glad, to have a V5F - although a total different riding. But everything works as expected! 

Edited by MBIKER_SURFER
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, MBIKER_SURFER said:

Is this normal, a bug or a feature?

Definitely a bug. Not normal at all. I’ve said it before but this sounds exactly like my wheel after messing around with calibration without knowing how it works. It calibrated it at wrong position. But if you’ve done it correctly, then it must be something else. Sounds like a calibration issue anyway. Very strange that it continues for you even after service. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, MBIKER_SURFER said:

So your V10 keeps position as you start the turn. O.k. - that what I would expect and my V5F is doing. 

Yes it does and it does it very well. I’ve tested several wheels and usually I can feel more dip on others. 

What are your other settings and do they have any effect? Can you take this on video? Riding with the dip or doing the calibration. 

What about @Demargon, can you take video of the dip?

 

Edited by UniVehje
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, US69 said:

As i have read here somewhere as Information from Bobwhee actually the temperature presented in the app is NOT the real heatsink/Mosfet temperature!

2

Yeah, he did mention that. I was just noticing in my data that the mainboard never goes higher than 70C and I'm assuming the whole system, whether mainboard and mosfets/heatsinks must rise at the same time. All the temp tolerance need to be adjusted accordingly for me to actually enjoy this device going uphills. Hopefully that heatsink data is transmitted SOMEWHERE. I'm gonna check wheellog today to see if a mysterious 2nd temp reading appears. Thanks.

 

9 hours ago, palachzzz said:

After pressing the power button - controlled immediately turn off motor and everything else, but the controller and fan stays on for 7 seconds more. After 7 seconds BMS turn off the controller, and fan. If you want to cool the controller, you shouldn't turn V10 off.. You need to wait some time while fan cools down main board. Also the better way to cool down heatsink - is to lift up the wheel and let the motor rotate at high speed without making it to the cutoff point 

I cycle the power to get rid of the tilt when it is in overload status. When it turns back on the fan turns back on as well. But good to know about the rotate at high speed, i'm gonna try that next time the unit is hot and see if it drops the temp any faster. My other option is to ride with a leaf blower. Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites
55 minutes ago, maltocs said:

Yeah, he did mention that. I was just noticing in my data that the mainboard never goes higher than 70C and I'm assuming the whole system, whether mainboard and mosfets/heatsinks must rise at the same time. All the temp tolerance need to be adjusted accordingly for me to actually enjoy this device going uphills. Hopefully that heatsink data is transmitted SOMEWHERE. I'm gonna check wheellog today to see if a mysterious 2nd temp reading appears. Thanks.

 

I cycle the power to get rid of the tilt when it is in overload status. When it turns back on the fan turns back on as well. But good to know about the rotate at high speed, i'm gonna try that next time the unit is hot and see if it drops the temp any faster. My other option is to ride with a leaf blower. Thanks.

I’d say to use a bottle of water to pour on the heatsink but the warning of not getting it wet now negates that.  

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, maltocs said:

that other number marked "System Temp" is a mystery number. And it's HIGH compared to the mainboard temp. Could this be the number that causes the Overloads.... time for another test!

Haha...

Nice! Seams that wheellog is reading the „real interesting“ temperature out of the wheel...The one that is responsible for the so called „overload“!! In fact....if thats so...now it gets real interesting!!!

Link to post
Share on other sites

You need to be careful with Wheellog's naming conventions as they aren't consistent.

For the V8:

The InMotion app reports "Mainboard Temperature". In the live Wheellog screen this is reported as "System Temp" but in the Wheellog CSV it is recorded under the "Battery Temp" column (all data locations showed the same numeric value). Looking at my ride to work this morning in 30C ambient temperature (having left a 24C house) this value remains very constant only slowly creeping up from 25 to 40 degrees over my 20 minute ride with no erratic changes.

For the mystery value the Inmotion app has nothing. The real-time screen in Wheellog shows it as "CPU(?) Temp" but the CSV records this value as "System Temp". Note the inconsistency seen in the naming of the two temperatures (CPU, System, and Battery is used and System can refer to either value depending on the way you read the data (live or CSV) so caution is needed when reading the values). Looking at my ride in this morning (detailed above), this temperature started out at 30C and peaked at 47C towards the end. This temperature change, while showing a trend of increasing, was more erratic and jumped up and down by up to 5C between readings less than a quarter of a second apart at times. I don't see a correlating surge of power to account for the heat increase which is odd and would be expected if this were heatsink/MOSFET temperature.

It should be considered that given that there is a large amount of communication between the InMotion BMS and the mainboard this could indeed be a battery temperature (as suggested by a wheellog column title) but I cannot understand why the temperature would fluctuate so much if that were the case. I imagine these cells would retain heat and take more than a 1/4 second to gain multiple degrees given my load was quite low (500W general consumption).

Perhaps @palachzzz can chime in on the data sources and might want to fix the naming inconsistency between the live view and the CSV.

Edited by WARPed1701D
Palachzzz read my mind.
Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, WARPed1701D said:

Perhaps @palachzzz can chime in on the data sources and might want to fix the naming inconsistency between the live view and the CSV.

Thanks for notice, I fixed it right now, will be available in next release of WL.

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, maltocs said:

Could this be the number that causes the Overloads.... time for another test!

Go for it! I think there's a good possibility that we are seeing the heatsink temperature. Your next test will be revealing. I have only iOS to use at the moment and DarknessBot shows only one temperature measurement and it seems to be the same as the app. I will try to confirm later. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Demargon said:

It seems my v10f problem with the rim hit comes worsen. I been talking with the inmotion post sale department and they proposed a engine replacement for what I get a 400€ bill.

Sorry to see that happen to your new wheel. That sucks. 

A few things came to my mind when reading this:

First, my tire seem to leak air even after adding slime to it. At around 1 bar per two weeks. I recently had a reading of 2 bars just two weeks after filling up to 2.8 bars and I have slime in my tire. It is well possible that you have been riding with 2 or even less bars if you had a two or more weeks since last time pumping it. A tire with at least 2.8 bars should not allow the rim to touch ground even under a heavy jump. 

Second, I'm not really sure where the line should be whether this kind of damage should be under warranty or not. If you had a proper pressure, this must have been a really big jump. Or maybe an unfortunate stone hitting the side of the tire? Also, is the rim weaker than what is expected or not? Whether it's weak or not, the rim is not meant to touch ground in any circuimstance as long as the tire is not under inflated. What exactly is the manufacturer error here? I'm not taking sides, just pondering the situation. Pretty difficult to determine if this should go to warranty or a user error. I do get the point of their video showing pretty rough riding. However, they could be riding with well inflated tire.

Thirdly, I've seen this issue discussed recently on this forum. I don't remember the wheels in question, but there was some ideas of fixing it. Maybe you could try to save the 400€ and bend it back yourself? This should be done very carefully with a vice. You might find good instructions on this forum to do it. 

Fourth, this is good to know. I will keep this in mind when doing heavy riding. Thanks for sharing. I have done only about half a meter jumps and I'm planning to keep it at that level in the future. And keeping my tire inflated. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, maltocs said:

At your weight with the right tire pressure, you should be able to bounce off almost anything STRAIGHT ON without messing up your RIM.

That's what I think.

The painful news comes from the inmotion service: replace the engine each time you want a RIM fixing. Brilliant! In 3 repairs you almost paid a new v10f. Looks like another abuse from inmotion

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...