New Inmotion V10 / V10F

[Meng Yang]

1 minute ago, dw8928 said:

You mean the V10?

Yes. V10 to me, seems like a V8 Heavy.

[UniVehje]

1 hour ago, Meng Yang said:

Yes. V10 to me, seems like a V8 Heavy.

Yes. Bigger tire, bigger motor, bigger battery. It's actually not that bad in it's category, 20.6 kg. Tesla is similar power and battery and it's lighter but with a narrow tire. Other similar spec wheels are heavier. 

And yes, it feels heavy in riding also. Definitely a different beast than the V8. 

[z3n]

1 hour ago, Meng Yang said:

Yes. V10 to me, seems like a V8 Heavy.

That was also my biggest con when I first rode mine. But after about 200 km on it, it became my V8 Fast for sure.

You definitely need time to adapt to your new wheels. 

[Demargon]

Actually I like more the v10 shape than the v8. The high of the top end and the big pedals makes it very comfortable and easy to handle, that allow you put more wight in the euc to make it follow you. The trolley can be easily replaced and isn't a weak point, instead, it can provide a good protection to the EUC. The IP is higher than the v8 reaching IP55. The cousin of the lateral padding also provide extra protection very effective in the worse crashes

Edited July 19, 2018 by Demargon

[maltocs]

4 hours ago, Stan Onymous said:

What riding mode were you in, and did you notice higher accepted temperatures?

also, that Youtube link wont work for me by pasting or through the link.

Sorry had to redo the link, it's here (once it finishes uploading) https://youtu.be/4tngxSmOb5s

[WARPed1701D]

4 hours ago, Demargon said:

The red light is the brake one, and the car turning correction didn't fix it. I sent this video to myInmotion.com

Thanks @Bobwheel for the help but I need another way to fix this.

 

Edit:

Hurrah! My v10f works again! The Erase Data option in the Log Diagnose menu did the fix. Hope none have this scaring experience, but at least can be solved.

This might be worthy of its own post in the Inmotion forum to make it easier to find if someone else has the same problem. 

Congratulations on finding a resolution. 

[Demargon]

50 minutes ago, WARPed1701D said:

This might be worthy of its own post in the Inmotion forum to make it easier to find if someone else has the same problem. 

Congratulations on finding a resolution. 

Thanks you. I want to do a recompilation of quick advises and useful tricks for v10f and general EUC. Maybe now is the time

[JerryR]

@maltocs  How were you able to hit 32.2 mph? Did you get alarm? That seems incredibly fast for the V10F.  AND SCARY. Nice video. Thanks. 

Edited July 19, 2018 by JerryR

[Harold Farrenkopf]

Question to those getting overload. Is the heat sink clean in the wheel well? Or do you have a coating of mud/dirt. Any confirmation that it is this heatsink that is getting too hot?

[Stan Onymous]

19 minutes ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

Question to those getting overload. Is the heat sink clean in the wheel well? Or do you have a coating of mud/dirt. Any confirmation that it is this heatsink that is getting too hot?

It is not the heatsink, since it got hotter after the Overload, and did not oveload. It is the design of the board not allowing for the proper Torque to acceleration curve without overheating the wires to the moror. 

Firmware 1.07 was perfect for someone weighing 150lbs. The heavier riders found the speed to be limited with this tuning. So onto 2.26 which allowed for even less speed and less torque. Now we have 2.27 which allows for more speed, but less torque, and now 2.28 which allows for a quicker acceleration and still less torque than 1.07.

InMotion will continue to do these adjustments until it is clear that the V10F is either a Clunker, or the Firmware engineers are half wits. Its one or the other at this point. 

[Harold Farrenkopf]

10 minutes ago, Stan Onymous said:

It is not the heatsink, since it got hotter after the Overload, and did not oveload. It is the design of the board not allowing for the proper Torque to acceleration curve without overheating the wires to the moror. 

Firmware 1.07 was perfect for someone weighing 150lbs. The heavier riders found the speed to be limited with this tuning. So onto 2.26 which allowed for even less speed and less torque. Now we have 2.27 which allows for more speed, but less torque, and now 2.28 which allows for a quicker acceleration and still less torque than 1.07.

InMotion will continue to do these adjustments until it is clear that the V10F is either a Clunker, or the Firmware engineers are half wits. Its one or the other at this point. 

Where or what is the sensor that is triggered? The actual current measurement over time translating into power into the motor during peaks? I'm 255 pounds naked but don't push the machine hard ever! I have never had an overload because I ride on flat roads at a maximum of 29kmh and typically only go 25kmh.

 

[Stan Onymous]

3 minutes ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

Where or what is the sensor that is triggered? The actual current measurement over time translating into power into the motor during peaks? I'm 255 pounds naked but don't push the machine hard ever! I have never had an overload because I ride on flat roads at a maximum of 29kmh and typically only go 25kmh.

 

It does not seem to be Speed related. It is only torque related and it only happens on hills. It may not take a very steep hill to get the warning either, just a constant low speed climb will do it. It is strange, because I am going to show that the V8 is capable of climbing this hill. Never found it on my V8 trips through the park, so just finding it was a win for the V10.

On the good side though, the Vehicle now shows milage and charge while charging and connected to the App with the new firmware upgrade

[WARPed1701D]

24 minutes ago, Stan Onymous said:

It is not the heatsink, since it got hotter after the Overload, and did not oveload. 

I didn't think we could see the heatsink temperature? Or is that now exposed via Wheellog? 

[maltocs]

2 hours ago, JerryR said:

@maltocs  How were you able to hit 32.2 mph? Did you get alarm? That seems incredibly fast for the V10F.  AND SCARY. Nice video. Thanks. 

I didn't even notice that! and NO, I'm not a speed rider so this number must be off. I question many of the numbers actually, like the 1226 max watts. Many times I feel like i'm tippy toeing to get more power doing hills, pedal to the metal so to speak. But I still maxxed out at 1226W??? That doesn't make sense. My camera was not pointed low enough for you to see my tippy toe action. When I left the park, when I still had over 60% battery life, I did notice I was getting the speed warning at only 20mph but I need to do more testing to confirm this.

[Stan Onymous]

6 minutes ago, WARPed1701D said:

I didn't think we could see the heatsink temperature? Or is that now exposed via Wheellog? 

My point was not that we can see the heatsink temperature, but since the Overload has happened at 52°C to 64°C and the vehicle got hotter after the Overload without additional Overloads leads me to believe that the temperature readings they are getting are irrelevant to the Overload problem as measured by the vehicle.

[Harold Farrenkopf]

5 minutes ago, WARPed1701D said:

I didn't think we could see the heatsink temperature? Or is that now exposed via Wheellog? 

Is there a temperature sensor on the heatsink? CPUs have them built in and read with software. If there isn't a sensor on the heatsink, there would be no way of knowing that temperature. I don't think anyone has said there was one on there. So I gather it is a computational overload that is issued then based of a time based current consumption then. When you think of a 2000 watt motor running on 80 volts, that is 25 Amps through the power wires to the motor. Those wires don't look very large diameter or the connector to it. 

 

[Stan Onymous]

1 minute ago, maltocs said:

I didn't even notice that! and NO, I'm not a speed rider so this number must be off. I question many of the numbers actually, like the 1226 max watts. Many times I feel like i'm tippy toeing to get more power doing hills, pedal to the metal so to speak. But I still maxxed out at 1226W??? That doesn't make sense. My camera was not pointed low enough for you to see my tippy toe action. When I left the park, when I still had over 60% battery life, I did notice I was getting the speed warning at only 20mph but I need to do more testing to confirm this.

Yeah, I got a 28.9 mph that I couldnt account for as well. No speed limit warning sound, and no real spinning accept for a mud slide at 5mph. That could have done it, but I heard no warning sound when it happened, and I got right back on the vehicle and rode off.

You are a speed rider, but that speed is usually a quickly reached 22-23mph and a steady cruise. On our rides we never reached the speed limit warning sound though, so you are a speed maximizer as a rider. Not a speed craver

[WARPed1701D]

8 minutes ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

Is there a temperature sensor on the heatsink? CPUs have them built in and read with software. If there isn't a sensor on the heatsink, there would be no way of knowing that temperature. I don't think anyone has said there was one on there. So I gather it is a computational overload that is issued then based of a time based current consumption then. When you think of a 2000 watt motor running on 80 volts, that is 25 Amps through the power wires to the motor. Those wires don't look very large diameter or the connector to it. 

 

I believe @Bobwheel said there was a heatsink temperature sensor and that was involved in triggering the overload alert. It is not the value reported in the app (CPU temp) as the engineers felt people would freak out if they saw the very high temperature of the heatsink. His post is either in this thread or another V10 thread. 

[WARPed1701D]

On 7/10/2018 at 5:31 AM, Bobwheel said:

I'd like to share some insight about the temperature showed on App,  and we've noticed there's lots of confusion. 

Actually the temperature we read from the App is not from the heat sink, but from one of the core processors on the control board, and V8/V10 all do the same way. The engineers had been concerning that the temperature from the heat sink might frighten off riders because they thought it would be a much higher degree. Here is the thing, the "overload " is triggered by the temperature of the heat sink, which means it has no connection with the temperature showed on App for now. 

Apparently it's not wise, and we'll make it right someday. 

 

Found it. Part of the discussion on page 93.

Edited July 19, 2018 by WARPed1701D

[JerryR]

I've never had crazy wrong speed reading but I've gotten alarms at 24.5 (39.4 ), 23.5 (37.8), 22.5 (36.2 ) and 21.6 (34.8) with the 21.6 mph at 60% battery. What I do have on my iOS app is way wrong temperature readings at the -44 to -98 F (it will flicker between these two temperatures every second when machine is resting).   On the first screen, it shows Mileage correctly but on the second page it shows the mileage number in Kilometers but still labels it as miles. I've deleted and reloaded the iOS app with no change. I have experienced overloads but only twice in 320 miles. Once going up a steep hill at speed after 1.5 hour ride and another time on a steady but not steep hill. Both times I was pushing hard.  My riding doesn't entail constant uphill rides for extended times though. I weigh 215 naked.

Edited July 19, 2018 by JerryR

[maltocs]

1 hour ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

Question to those getting overload. Is the heat sink clean in the wheel well? Or do you have a coating of mud/dirt. Any confirmation that it is this heatsink that is getting too hot?

I haven't taken the wheel apart, but I personally don't ride in the rain at all so this wheel has never seen water/mud other than one 3-4 inch river I rode though early on. To clean, I take a leaf blower to the unexposed parts then wipe the outside down to include the exposed parts of the wheel and tire.

23 minutes ago, Stan Onymous said:

My point was not that we can see the heatsink temperature, but since the Overload has happened at 52°C to 64°C and the vehicle got hotter after the Overload without additional Overloads leads me to believe that the temperature readings they are getting are irrelevant to the Overload problem as measured by the vehicle.

Yeah, at some point, Bob mentioned overloads are related to heatsink temps. My overloads generally happen on long sustained uphill rides. Usually, I'm not doing too much speed, under 13mph and on steep sections, sometimes much slower. LOGIC tells me

- Going uphill with my weight uses a lot of power which generates a lot of heat in the mosfets

- Since I'm doing SUSTAINED uphills, the heatsinks have lots of time to get hot

- Since I'm not doing too much speed since I"m climbing the hill, I'm not generating enough wind to cool the heatsinks

- Since overloads are tied to heatsink temps, I get overloads. 

I just can't figure out why I can just turn off and back on the unit and within a minute I'm riding up the hill again. They can't cool THAT fast.

Spock out.

[Stan Onymous]

1 minute ago, maltocs said:

I haven't taken the wheel apart, but I personally don't ride in the rain at all so this wheel has never seen water/mud other than one 3-4 inch river I rode though early on. To clean, I take a leaf blower to the unexposed parts then wipe the outside down to include the exposed parts of the wheel and tire.

Yeah, at some point, Bob mentioned overloads are related to heatsink temps. My overloads generally happen on long sustained uphill rides. Usually, I'm not doing too much speed, under 13mph and on steep sections, sometimes much slower. LOGIC tells me

- Going uphill with my weight uses a lot of power which generates a lot of heat in the mosfets

- Since I'm doing SUSTAINED uphills, the heatsinks have lots of time to get hot

- Since I'm not doing too much speed since I"m climbing the hill, I'm not generating enough wind to cool the heatsinks

- Since overloads are tied to heatsink temps, I get overloads. 

I just can't figure out why I can just turn off and back on the unit and within a minute I'm riding up the hill again. They can't cool THAT fast.

Spock out.

I think the next logical step is to assume that the architecture is doing its best in its current form.

This Best is still not enough to use the full power of the V10f which is why we get the Overload with lower wattage ratings than the vehicle is capable of. It is also why we dont get the Overload when we are getting higher than wattage ratings of the vehicle like a 2300 watt maximum power output while on flat roads or over rough terrain.

I am not sure that I will feel inclined to “baby” such a powerfully spec’ed device on my rides...

It seems like it will necessitate a newly designed board which I will be happy to install in my vehicle if this becomes the solution.

[kjon12]

Yay! Just got my V10F from eWheels. A couple of questions:

1st, What's the latest Android version of the InMotion App? I've got 7.0.4 that I've been using with my V5F.

2nd, I read somewhere, probably on this thread, that I should immediately calibrate the horizontal position of the pedals. According to Jason, this wheel has the original firmware.

3rd, How do I verify the version of firmware on the wheel?

I'm supposed to be getting wheel covers from Jason, as well, so I probably won't try riding this thing until they arrive, hopefully today or tomorrow.

[Mystic Traveller]

13 minutes ago, kjon12 said:

I've got 7.0.4 that I've been using with my V5F.

BTW, I've just bumped into this issue after having upgraded to 2.2.8 - where

to get 7.0.4. for Android as the latest available version at Google Play is 7.0.3. 

And I do want to try out those 2 settings - Comfort and Classic.

Edited July 19, 2018 by Mystic Traveller

[novazeus]

6 minutes ago, kjon12 said:

2nd, I read somewhere, probably on this thread, that I should immediately calibrate the horizontal position of the pedals. According to Jason, this wheel has the original firmware

this is huge i think. i used a regular spirits level. 0 degrees in the app wasn’t level according to the way i did it, but the app is great about adjusting the angle in increments. on mine, the pedals were tilted forward out of the box so it made accelerating seem slow and braking awkward. 

fill ur tire to 40 psi unless u weigh less than 120 pounds.