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New Inmotion V10 / V10F


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1 hour ago, LZMutant said:

But it's Bob and his team that need to stay engaged with our population and deliver solid fixes and updates...  My gosh, my updated app still displays the two modes in Chinese (see post above).  What's up with that?  Seriously.

So again, thank you all for contributing to my education.  Let's stay positive, steer our wheels in the same direction and hope for the best for our V10F's and the EUC community as a whole in 2019.

Happy holidays gang!

 

 

Unfortunately there is nothing than silence. I 'e-mailed' Bob a couple of times concerning new firmware -  not even an answer.

Anyway - riding the V10 F with keeping in ind the bugs - it is really fun.

Currently I can't ride my V5F or V10F due to bad wheater conditions - i.e. many rain, partially snow and stormy conditions. All what the EUC's really don't like. With bugs or without bugs.

 

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9 hours ago, MBIKER_SURFER said:

Unfortunately there is nothing than silence. I 'e-mailed' Bob a couple of times concerning new firmware -  not even an answer.

Anyway - riding the V10 F with keeping in ind the bugs - it is really fun.

Currently I can't ride my V5F or V10F due to bad wheater conditions - i.e. many rain, partially snow and stormy conditions. All what the EUC's really don't like. With bugs or without bugs.

 

Move to Los Angeles and I’ll ride a reasonably graded hill in fine weather with you! ;)

 

Edited by LZMutant
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I started the sealing operation. It was a mistake to choose DIY kit. These seem to he unique. Instructions did not match and had to improvise. Now I cannot get the battery to fit inside. One hex screw seems to be destroyed and is now stuck inside one of the holes. I’m not sure if I’m going to get this done. I might have to send it to be serviced. 

There was some signs of water inside but nothing too bad. 

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I have been stalling my weatherproofing of my V10F. Some others have mentioned the instructions weren’t great and I was hoping a better one would pop up somewhere. I’ve got a few months before I can get back out with it anyways. My DIY kit didn’t include much and no new pads so I guess I will need to source some of that adhesive. Still waiting for fixed firmware and app before I update my wheel from the ship original firmware. Got a feeling we will be forgotten soon when a newer wheel comes out. 

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4 hours ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

I have been stalling my weatherproofing of my V10F. Some others have mentioned the instructions weren’t great and I was hoping a better one would pop up somewhere. I’ve got a few months before I can get back out with it anyways. My DIY kit didn’t include much and no new pads so I guess I will need to source some of that adhesive. Still waiting for fixed firmware and app before I update my wheel from the ship original firmware. Got a feeling we will be forgotten soon when a newer wheel comes out. 

Don’t do it if you are not familiar with that. I can follow instructions fine but the instructions don’t mention anything about the battery pack not fitting in anymore or about all the small parts that fell out when I opened the case. Some parts are also a bit different in my unit. I would have been fine with just taking the wheel out and sealing the inside seam. 

I actually just asked Jeffrey if it’s still possible to send the wheel to them. I’ve now used 8 straight hours on it and only half way there. 

Edited by UniVehje
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8 hours ago, Harold Farrenkopf said:

Still waiting for fixed firmware and app before I update my wheel from the ship original firmware. Got a feeling we will be forgotten soon when a newer wheel comes out. 

I got the impression, that we are already forgotten. So many e-mails from me to inmotion - no answering at all since September 2018. New firmware? Something like a dark wish of V10 riders ....:confused1:

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Many years ago I bought a Mazda Rx-7 R1 (1993). It was awesome looking, fast as a rocket and ahead of its time. But...

The electrical system was a total bust. The harness was made of plastic and strung over the engine, so it melted at high speeds; and if you we’re lucky it only shorted out the car. If you were unlucky it became a fireball and burned down. If you were super unlucky you we’re immolated...  (To my knowledge nobody ever was...just saying)  

My car shorted out and needed a new electrical harness 3 separate times. It was a major job as the car had to be completely re-wired. Each time I was told there would be a recall and a fix from Mazda. Nothing happened and the model was discontinued after 3 years.

Sadly, that experience is sounding familiar. 

Of course we are talking about firmware, but it isn’t encouraging. I still wonder if InMotion is simply  moving on to a new high-end wheel for 2019 or 2020. If so too bad.  

Hope burns eternal, like my old Rx-7. 

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So I'm probably getting what I deserve for buying the V10F in the first place, but boy did I overestimate how much having a handlebar (over my firewheel f260, which has none) would improve the practicality of the wheel. Are there any EUC's that only need one hand to open/close the handle and ride off? I feel like the V10F takes 2 hands to work the handle - one to depress the circular button, the other to raise the handle. Though I just tried again, in my apartment, and I think if I move the wheel forward and steer it towards the right, all with my right foot on the pedal, I think I can depress/pop up the handle with one hand, without the tip whacking my crotch... Is that how people do it?  And then of course we've got the pedals that are stiff as heck and require you to bend over and pry down each one before heading off, yet another step.  

Took the wheel .5 miles to the grocery store, urban setting with lots of side roads, and it was pretty annoying overall. The wheel took up the entire shopping cart, and I'm asking for a back injury trying to hoist it up and over the cart rails over time. I'm a small guy (140 lb's 5' 10") so this wheels been quite cumbersome for running local errands so far. I could see it's maybe more specialized for long distance riding or men with an extra 20-40 lbs of muscle. And then with all the cross streets/shopping plaza type entrances, I had to hop on/off the wheel every 100 feet and get the handle out. Pain in the butt.  ETA maybe I can improve my riding style to just staying put without reaching for the handle at a stop.

 

Edited by Glitched
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On 12/27/2018 at 3:10 PM, Harold Farrenkopf said:

Got a feeling we will be forgotten soon when a newer wheel comes out. 

Welcome to the club.  King Song washed their hands of cracked axles long ago.  We are all just guinea pigs. My advice: never buy the first batch of a new wheel design until the guinea pigs early adopters have done all the face planting beta testing.

Edited by Smoother
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Yes, the V10 series is definitely more of a workout than say a V8 or V5F. The shell is Massive in size, I always used to think the V8 was massive for a 16inch wheel, this makes it much tricker to manoeuvre than say a V8. Also extending out the handle and walking wheel looks comical and draws unwanted attention. 

The V10 makes me appreciate how good and simple the V8 really is. 

Edited by ED209
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9 minutes ago, ED209 said:

Yes, the V10 series is definitely more of a workout than say a V8 or V5F. The shell is Massive in size, I always used to think the V8 was massive for a 16inch wheel, this makes it much tricker to manoeuvre than say a V8. Also extending out the handle and walking wheel looks comical and draws unwanted attention. 

The V10 makes me appreciate how good and simple the V8 really is. 

Well I can't imagine your current ride (18L) is any easier, except for maybe the handle? It is pretty nuts the V10 is bigger in dimensions than most any other wheel out there. I'm hoping I can make this easier with better technique. 

Edited by Glitched
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55 minutes ago, Glitched said:

Are there any EUC's that only need one hand to open/close the handle and ride off? I feel like the V10F takes 2 hands to work the handle - one to depress the circular button, the other to raise the handle.

And then of course we've got the pedals that are stiff as heck and require you to bend over and pry down each one before heading off, yet another step. 

I do open/close my V10F's handle with one hand only. And if you feel the pedals are too stiff, you can just loosen up a bit the bolt under both the pedal arms to your liking.

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33 minutes ago, Glitched said:

Well I can't imagine your current ride (18L) is any easier, except for maybe the handle?

They are both similar in size and weight, but the shell size makes more sense in the KS18L than it does on the 16 inch Inmotion. It is built for high speed. Extending the handle on the Kingsong is easier and can be operated with one hand. 

Having previously owned the 22 inch Monster, I find myself manoeuvring the KS18L as if it were a 16inch wheel. Give it time and it will become easier. 

Edited by ED209
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17 minutes ago, z3n said:

I do open/close my V10F's handle with one hand only. And if you feel the pedals are too stiff, you can just loosen up a bit the bolt under both the pedal arms to your liking.

I thought the pedal adjustment would take some specialized tool, but took a closer look and made the adjustments, easy as pie. No need to open the pedals with my hands now, thanks!!

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To Glitched...

Keep practicing - you’ll get used to the hassles of the V10F. You’ll get stronger. No matter what EUC you own there’ll be an adjustment period. There’s no perfect wheel and no perfect riders. It’s all patience, perseverance and perspiration...

(To ED209)

...and a healthy sense of humor.  You think using the trolley handle is comical?  The sheer act of riding one of these things can put a smile on a face from 20 yards away. It’s all a little ridiculous when you think about it, IMO. 

To non riders we all look like Rosie from the Jetsons anyway... :)

Edited by LZMutant
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I don't mind the handle being raised, personally. But I use a guitar stand to keep the wheel in place anyway. 

Has anyone found a way to blunt the headlights high angle beam? It's so badly angled up, if I'm in the middle of a suburban street, at night, and aim my wheel at a house, it sends the light right up to the second floor windows. Further back I can see the tops of trees illuminated. :facepalm:

For now I took some tape and a piece of aluminum foil to cut the beam off, but it does not work very well!!

 

20190101_123427.jpg

Edited by Glitched
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1 hour ago, Glitched said:

I don't mind the handle being raised, personally. But I use a guitar stand to keep the wheel in place anyway. 

Has anyone found a way to blunt the headlights high angle beam? It's so badly angled up, if I'm in the middle of a suburban street, at night, and aim my wheel at a house, it sends the light right up to the second floor windows. Further back I can see the tops of trees illuminated. :facepalm:

For now I took some tape and a piece of aluminum foil to cut the beam off, but it does not work very well!!

 

20190101_123427.jpg

Maybe there is room for you to adjust your pedal tilt down in front a degree or two.  But that would be up to you and how it would feel to you.  Also check to make sure your front light is mounted correctly.  It's possible that it is misaligned in the shell.

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7 hours ago, Glitched said:

I don't mind the handle being raised, personally. But I use a guitar stand to keep the wheel in place anyway. 

Has anyone found a way to blunt the headlights high angle beam? It's so badly angled up, if I'm in the middle of a suburban street, at night, and aim my wheel at a house, it sends the light right up to the second floor windows. Further back I can see the tops of trees illuminated. :facepalm:

For now I took some tape and a piece of aluminum foil to cut the beam off, but it does not work very well!!

 

20190101_123427.jpg

I noticed it as well during my ride this evening. Was thinking of using tape as well.

Don't really know what else could block the light effectively 

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6 hours ago, Smoother said:

Maybe there is room for you to adjust your pedal tilt down in front a degree or two.  But that would be up to you and how it would feel to you.  Also check to make sure your front light is mounted correctly.  It's possible that it is misaligned in the shell.

I adjusted the pedal angle from -2 to 0 but it's still shooting way into the air, as demonstrated below (curious cats for scale). This is a distance of maybe 12-15 feet to the wall, so imagine cars further back than that... the light housing itself looks fine, at a glance. I thought I've read several others experiencing this same issue with the V10/F, where the light goes right into oncoming traffic. Seems KingSong and Ninebot released new lights for their wheels....  @Jeffrey Scott Will

@KevinvdV... yeah perhaps a small strip of black tape cutting off the top 30-50% of the bulb may suffice. 

unnamed (1).jpg

Edited by Glitched
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On 12/22/2018 at 1:36 PM, LZMutant said:

Here’s my app screen. It appears the “modes” are in Chinese...

A9694B15-7EF0-470C-B3D9-418366765856.jpeg

 

MBiker - if this is the case which mode is “comfort?”

You can upload the app to the latest version. There is no problem with the display.

image.thumb.png.fadf853d1a55c4e4d820d020fe31d674.pngimage.thumb.png.74a8d64cdf88d284bae8d277347cbfa0.png

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On 12/24/2018 at 7:14 PM, MBIKER_SURFER said:
On 12/24/2018 at 6:01 PM, LZMutant said:

But it's Bob and his team that need to stay engaged with our population and deliver solid fixes and updates...  My gosh, my updated app still displays the two modes in Chinese (see post above).  What's up with that?  Seriously.

So again, thank you all for contributing to my education.  Let's stay positive, steer our wheels in the same direction and hope for the best for our V10F's and the EUC community as a whole in 2019.

Happy holidays gang!

 

 

Unfortunately there is nothing than silence. I 'e-mailed' Bob a couple of times concerning new firmware -  not even an answer.

Anyway - riding the V10 F with keeping in ind the bugs - it is really fun.

Currently I can't ride my V5F or V10F due to bad wheater conditions - i.e. many rain, partially snow and stormy conditions. All what the EUC's really don't like. With bugs or without bugs.

Please DM the issue to me. I will report it to our technical support team. Thanks

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8 hours ago, Glitched said:

@KevinvdV... yeah perhaps a small strip of black tape cutting off the top 30-50% of the bulb may suffice

That room is a good place to start, as the pattern is clearly visible on the wall. Taping lights is a common procedure over here (UK) when we take our cars over to mainland Europe.  Because we drive on the other side, our headlights are designed to not blind on the right, but its the opposite over there, so taping the problem areas is the solution.  They even make and sell kits to do it, but tape is fine, as long as you can see the results (as you can) on a flat vertical surface.  Please post a picture of the result.

Come to think of it I'm going to evaluate my KS16 light and see if a little taping session is in order.

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