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New Inmotion V10 / V10F


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2 minutes ago, Fastmike said:

The problem is that the V10F is announced as the 'Ferrari' of the wheels, not as the Fiat Panda version... if I want a Fiat Panda equivalent EUC, I will opt for a 500W or less motor!

Exactly, for speed I would get the 1.4l turbo charged version of the Fiat. It has better brakes and suspension too

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27 minutes ago, Fastmike said:

You will certainly not get the max range but maybe the max speed.

The problem is that, at this time, your V10F will probably kick you off with an overload message far more often than your friends riding older generation KS or Gotway wheels with less power.

Hopefully InMotion will release a better tuned firmware that allows people over 75Kg to use their V10F as much as their older wheels   ?

I've got the speed limit set to 29kmh. I ride very cautiously and don't go up many hills. I have only heard the overspeed alarm a few times after setting it to 29 because I find I like to cruise around 22 to 25kmh.  I only wear a half helmet and wrist protectors so I don't want to go too fast. I have never felt tilt back or overtemp condition yet. At 119kg, I am just concerned I don't bend the pedals. I'm 6'3" and 55yrs old. Only one in Sarnia riding an EUC and I get lots of smiles as I ride by people - They are probably laughing at the old fat guy on a single wheel.......  LOL

 

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2 hours ago, Demargon said:

My Fiat Panda is a great example for that, it can pull of a roulote but I didn't expect to reach his maximum speed without stop frecuently for let it cold dawn. Beside I agree with you, the makers are generally lie with the performance specifications. Here we are used to it thanks to makers like Volkswagen

Volkswagen only lied about the NOx emissions.  Otherwise, all their specs are fine. 

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32 minutes ago, Fastmike said:

The problem is that the V10F is announced as the 'Ferrari' of the wheels, not as the Fiat Panda version... if I want a Fiat Panda equivalent EUC, I will opt for a 500W or less motor (for half the price or less)!

For EU consumer the v10 aren't precisely a high budget wheel, ks, 9bot and gw prices are higer than v10. I see it a good price/performance balance keenen on safety, not on performance.

Btw my Fiat has 85hp in less than 1000kg car, that is good enough for keeping his performance in tolerabe ranks but highly affected for extra weight, that's the same of many lightweight vehicles not designed for heavy works

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7 minutes ago, Demargon said:

For EU consumer the v10 aren't precisely a high budget wheel, ks, 9bot and gw prices are higer than v10. I see it a good price/performance balance keenen on safety, not on performance.

In the US, the V10F and the KS18L are at the same price. In France, it is "only" 200 euros difference... the KS18L has more battery (higher end also), two charging ports, etc...

So I would expect to have no riding problem with my V10F that is more conservative (lower max speed) and certainly no overload problem! At 1800 euros, that will be unacceptable!

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24 minutes ago, Fastmike said:

In the US, the V10F and the KS18L are at the same price. In France, it is "only" 200 euros difference... the KS18L has more battery (higher end also), two charging ports, etc...

So I would expect to have no riding problem with my V10F that is more conservative (lower max speed) and certainly no overload problem! At 1800 euros, that will be unacceptable!

I get the v10f in Spain for less than 1400€ with the pre release bonus, that's near the same price of a ks 14s here and less than half of a 22" gw monster price

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10 hours ago, Bobwheel said:

@Stan Onymous Thanks for your feedback. Actually the quite a lot of engineers are not very good at riding, so we need a better product manager rather than engineers. An ideal product manager should be a very good rider, and be able to think and make decisions like a rider. Most of Chinese companies don’t have that core decision makers IMO. 

@UniVehje The speed limit was not intentional, and we’re working to make it right now. We still have a chance to keep the previous version when next release is available. 

Oh to me this spells out:

TEAM event in the engineers department ?

Note: @Bobwheel did you note the tip about releasing an add on service that ensure the right BT 4.0 BLE comms? 

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Do you guys know what happens with ereasing flash? Will this set the wheel to it’s previous firmware? Have you tried it? 

I have a two week holiday starting and it’s all planned around riding my EUC. I would like to have the proper max speed back. I hate to hear the siren all the time and not being able to go fast. 

Today I briefly tested the B mode again. I still think it feels more reactive and not at all like the original version. But I ride on A mode usually because B mode has a slight tilt back after around 20 km/h. I hate riding my feet up. 

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When I upgraded my V10F to 2.2.6 and downloaded the iOs app, I couldn't get Mode A and Mode B to change. I erased the flash and the only thing that happened was that I lost all the "sounds" and "Light Effects". It did not change the firmware. I would suggest not erasing the flash. It was a real pain to download and reinstall the sounds. If you do have to download and reinstall the sounds and light effects, make sure you put the wheel in the "download" position that you used for the firmware upgrade.

I have since uploaded the new iOs app and can now change between Mode A and Mode B. I've only been riding in Mode A. It now seems easier to go faster than before the new firmware. Yesterday, I got the siren going downhill at 24.5 mph (39.4 kph) with about 85% battery power. My weight is 100 kilo. Later, at 80% battery power, I got the siren at 23.6 mph (38.0 kph) on a mostly flat grade. My riding is primarily city streets, bike lanes and sidewalks. With the power of the V10F compared to my old V8, I feel much safer on the streets.

I am now enjoying the ride on the V10F again. The only weird thing is that I had to set the foot pedal level at -3.1 degrees. Otherwise, I felt like I was always on my toes. Before the upgrade, I had the level set at -1.2 degrees. I've set the footboard sensitivity to 50% where before I had it set at 2048 (the very softest setting). Now, 0% is quite a bit softer. At 0%, it makes for a very spongy, floaty feeling ride but I felt less grounded to the road.

Here's a screenshot of the siren at 80% battery and 23.6 mph.

IMG_8718.PNG

Edited by JerryR
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@JerryR Than you for your answer. I will not erease the flash then. 

Interesting that you avoided the speed bug with the new firmware. Did you have that problem at all? Any idea what might be the cause? Every other upgrader seem to have max speed at around 33 kph. Sometimes it varies, though. I also noticed the pedal level change. And I feel like A and B modes have it different.

I’m very happy with the new firmware if I could just ride it fast again. 

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I'm not sure why the iOs app would make a difference with the speed bug. The day before, when I had the 7.0.5 version, I got the siren at 22 mph (35.4 kph).

Every time that alarm goes off, it scares the crap out of me. I guess that's a good thing, especially if it's because you're going too fast. If it happened at 33 kph, that would be really annoying.

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15 minutes ago, UniVehje said:

@JerryR Than you for your answer. I will not erease the flash then. 

Interesting that you avoided the speed bug with the new firmware. Did you have that problem at all? Any idea what might be the cause? Every other upgrader seem to have max speed at around 33 kph. Sometimes it varies, though. I also noticed the pedal level change. And I feel like A and B modes have it different.

I’m very happy with the new firmware if I could just ride it fast again. 

Even I set the max speed to 28mph using Darknessbot, the alarm still goes off at 21mph (100% battery). Look like they set the fixed value in the 2.2.6 firmware :D

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1 hour ago, JerryR said:

I've only been riding in Mode A. It now seems easier to go faster than before the new firmware.

I've been riding in Mode A the last two days, and it feels much more aggressive to me now, as well. Not, importantly, at the 0-5kph range where it felt most needed, but at the 5-20kph range where most of my riding takes place. (I am riding almost exclusively at night these days, and rarely go above 20kph).

1 hour ago, JerryR said:

The only weird thing is that I had to set the foot pedal level at -3.1 degrees. Otherwise, I felt like I was always on my toes. Before the upgrade, I had the level set at -1.2 degrees.

I had the same exact impression, feeling the need to dial back my pedal angle by at least a degree with Mode A.

One other quirk of Mode A I haven't seen mentioned (is it only me?) is that, when braking below about 7kph there's a notable vibration that reminds me of early anti-lock brakes. It's not alarming, just different and somewhat cheap feeling.

Also, not mode related, but on the subject of entrapped gravel that scrapes and makes you think you have bad bearings:

On 6/19/2018 at 3:34 PM, UniVehje said:

And don’t worry. I had a lot of gravel going in when the tire was new but it stopped. It’s been a long time since it last happened. I guess the new tire picks them up easier. Some wear and it stops.

And I also did the upside down shakeup once. I have a feeling that there are more of these reported bearing problems here that are just stones stuck up there. 

...I have now had to do the upside down shake no fewer than six times in 200km. And there have been many more occasions where gravel was audibly entrapped and scraping but worked itself out before I resorted to stopping and shaking. Hoping this reduces soon.

This is easily my biggest beef with the wheel. It seems like a pretty big design flaw for a wheel marketed on planets where the crust is composed primarily of rock.

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33 minutes ago, beast@tanagra said:

This is easily my biggest beef with the wheel. It seems like a pretty big design flaw for a wheel marketed on planets where the crust is composed primarily of rock.

Arizona is the moon and boy do you all have lots of rocks. If you ever had the V8, you will remember that stuff gets caught up there all the time. It cant really damage anything in there besides scraping the outside of the motor and the inside of the wheel well. The three times I have had that problem I only had to shake it out twice. I just bounce the V10 like a basket ball and the stone or stick usually falls right out. Happens with most EUCs.

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With the new iOs app 7.0.6, I am not experiencing the early speed warning alarm any longer. Weird. Not sure why the app would make a difference. Just went for a short ride up some fairly steep hills. My top speed on the trip was 22.7 mph (36.5 kph) and no alarm sounded. I went up hills, pushing it medium-hard, with max power rating of 2,333w. No tilt-back either. Part of the hill (210 feet long at 19% grade), I cruised up at an average speed of 17 mph (27.4 kph). My weight is 100 kilo.

From first being bummed about the firmware upgrade 2.2.6 I am now a happy camper. I love my V10F ... again!

IMG_8720.PNG

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41 minutes ago, JerryR said:

With the new iOs app 7.0.6, I am not experiencing the early speed warning alarm any longer. Weird. Not sure why the app would make a difference. Just went for a short ride up some fairly steep hills. My top speed on the trip was 22.7 mph (36.5 kph) and no alarm sounded. I went up hills, pushing it medium-hard, with max power rating of 2,333w. No tilt-back either. Part of the hill (210 feet long at 19% grade), I cruised up at an average speed of 17 mph (27.4 kph). My weight is 100 kilo.

From first being bummed about the firmware upgrade 2.2.6 I am now a happy camper. I love my V10F ... again!

IMG_8720.PNG

If you can't hit 25mph, you won't know.  I've had the warning come on a little higher than your max speed ~23mph.

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@eddiemoy ... Sorry. I didn't mean to say that I'm not getting the early alarm any longer. I'm just not getting it at 22 mph and lower that a lot of people are getting it at. I said this yesterday:

"I got the siren going downhill at 24.5 mph (39.4 kph) with about 85% battery power. Later, at 80% battery power, I got the siren at 23.6 mph (38.0 kph) on a mostly flat grade. My riding is primarily city streets, bike lanes and sidewalks."

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I have the latest 7.0.6 iOS app also and that alone doesn’t fix it. It must be something else. It’s probably not hard coded in the firmware to sound the alarm at exactly 22 mph / 33 kph but something elese triggers it. I’m a lot ligher also, so it’s probably not the watts either. I’ve noticed it varies for me also, just usually around 33 kph. 

@JerryR did you maybe do something else that you can think of? Restarting the phone? Reinstalling the app? Reseting something in the wheel settings? Edit: You did the erease flash option. Was it after that when you could go faster again?

Anybody else with the 2.2.6 firmware and  higher top speed?

 

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@UniVehje ... I did reboot phone and reinstall app, although I don't know how the app would affect the alarm speed. Even though I advised against it, I did Erase the Flash. It was a pain because afterwards, I had no sound and no light effects. I had to download and install them again. Erasing the flash is the only thing that I can think of that could have possibly made a difference. Maybe @Bobwheel can comment on that. At least I'm not getting alarms at 20 mph. That would be unacceptable.

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3 minutes ago, JerryR said:

@UniVehje ... I did reboot phone and reinstall app, although I don't know how the app would affect the alarm speed. Even though I advised against it, I did Erase the Flash. It was a pain because afterwards, I had no sound and no light effects. I had to download and install them again. Erasing the flash is the only thing that I can think of that could have possibly made a difference. Maybe @Bobwheel can comment on that. At least I'm not getting alarms at 20 mph. That would be unacceptable.

Thanks. I think I’ll try that. Where did you download the sounds from? If the alarm siren gets deleted, I wouldn’t mind that. ?

@Bobwheel do you have any inside info on what could cause that early alarm and tilt back? Any way fixing that particular problem could be done faster for us? 

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@UniVehje ... After erasing the flash, I had to download and install sounds in the Sound Customizaton area. Same thing with Light Effects. For the Sound I had to Download and Install it 3-4 times before it worked. For the Light Effects, I had to go to a specific Effect (like Spinning) and then hit Transfer. Don't forget to put the wheel in the same download position that you use for upgrading the firmware.

Not having any sounds is a bit disconcerting. If I was getting alarms at low speeds though, it would make me want to turn them off. I would just be afraid of going past the point of no return and having a cut-off at 24-25 mph. Scary.

I wear gear but just light skateboard wrist guards (https://www.amazon.com/Rollerblade-Bladegear-Wristguard-Headband-Bundle/dp/B071VCKT1N/ref=zg_bs_3416351_37/130-8776360-3018108?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=4B4HBRWHTYGZFKNVVPT7) , really comfortable and easy to put on and off, Arcteryx knee pads (https://www.backcountrygear.com/knee-caps.html?sku=ARC9K20495-BLACK&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o4&scid=scplpARC9K20495-BLACK&sc_intid=ARC9K20495-BLACK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_K3N8Zr42wIVDHp-Ch0n4Q4LEAQYBCABEgITx_D_BwE) and a Bern bike helmet.

I don't think this would be quite enough protection though for a 25 mph face plant cut-off.

Edited by JerryR
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8 hours ago, JerryR said:

@UniVehje ... After erasing the flash, I had to download and install sounds in the Sound Customizaton area. Same thing with Light Effects. For the Sound I had to Download and Install it 3-4 times before it worked. For the Light Effects, I had to go to a specific Effect (like Spinning) and then hit Transfer. Don't forget to put the wheel in the same download position that you use for upgrading the firmware.

Not having any sounds is a bit disconcerting. If I was getting alarms at low speeds though, it would make me want to turn them off. I would just be afraid of going past the point of no return and having a cut-off at 24-25 mph. Scary.

I wear gear but just light skateboard wrist guards (https://www.amazon.com/Rollerblade-Bladegear-Wristguard-Headband-Bundle/dp/B071VCKT1N/ref=zg_bs_3416351_37/130-8776360-3018108?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=4B4HBRWHTYGZFKNVVPT7) , really comfortable and easy to put on and off, Arcteryx knee pads (https://www.backcountrygear.com/knee-caps.html?sku=ARC9K20495-BLACK&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o4&scid=scplpARC9K20495-BLACK&sc_intid=ARC9K20495-BLACK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_K3N8Zr42wIVDHp-Ch0n4Q4LEAQYBCABEgITx_D_BwE) and a Bern bike helmet.

I don't think this would be quite enough protection though for a 25 mph face plant cut-off.

Depends on how you crash.   Trust me though (I'm still healing), you will want elbow protection too and a helmet (full face is preferred).   I wish I was wearing my motorcycle jacket (has elbow, shoulder, back) when I wrecked.  One part that no one talks about but always gets nailed are your high hips.  

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Anybody got DIY lights to work? For me they don’t work and even transferring works only sometimes. (Better success if you have it in resting position)

BTW, the iOS app was just updated. 7.0.7. Now the driving modes are called Comfort (forme A) and Classic (former B). 

I didn’t find any other changes. 

I also tried to do the erease flas command. I’m not sure if it happened. I have lost sounds but that happened already before that. I’ve been playing with the app and almost lost all access to the device. Trying to apply DIY sounds messed up everything and for a while couldn’t access the wheel at all. Also the light patterns went weird. 

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1 minute ago, UniVehje said:

BTW, the iOS app was just updated. 7.0.7. Now the driving modes are called Comfort (forme A) and Classic (former B). 

 

Comfort and Classic? Weird... I was expecting Comfort and Sport or Classic and Sport, but Comfort and classic sounds about the same to me ?

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26 minutes ago, Fastmike said:

Comfort and Classic? Weird... I was expecting Comfort and Sport or Classic and Sport, but Comfort and classic sounds about the same to me ?

Comfort should be the new version (more comfortable) vs the previous "classic" version:

 

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