How to Tighten Gotway (ACM) Axle Nuts

[Scott Henley]

3 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

The insulation looks promising. The 2” diameter is a bit concerning for 14 awg wires.  This is the insulation I used. I need to check where I purchased it but a blow torch never melted the shield.

  Edit: I found the sleeve I used. Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Silicone-Coated-Fiberglass-Sleeve/dp/B01HIYOB1Y

 

Ah, nice . Yeah 2” seemed a bit wide. I was going to look for a thinner product . The one you used looks nice . Do you think it’s necessary? Others have stated they don’t believe it is . 

[Rehab1]

1 hour ago, Scott Henley said:

Ah, nice . Yeah 2” seemed a bit wide. I was going to look for a thinner product . The one you used looks nice . Do you think it’s necessary? Others have stated they don’t believe it is . 

Every modification we perform on our wheels is considered experimental. If you install or upgrade secondary components based on sound logic and you end up feeling at ease when riding.... that states volumes.

I increased the size of my motor bullet connectors to provide additional assurance that the wires would not melt. This mod increased the max amperage at each connector by 70 amps. Then I did not feel comfortable using the clear OEM insulator  sleeves over these large connectors so I went with the 3000 degree sleeves. @Marty Backe‘s method of using ties to separate the wires was also a great mod.

So it basically comes down to assimilating all of the info found on this forum and making a sound decision you are content with. Nothing worse than riding around on your wheel and second guessing the methodology used in implementing your modifications. 

[Smoother]

16 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

Yes, just the motor wires . I’ve seen a few photos of GW wheels with this type of sheathing . Seemed like a decent idea . My motor wires are fairly short so rerouting then is a bit of an issue . I’ve noticed a lot of failures come from the wires getting hot  and burning the mosfets . Unfortunately I struck out at Lowe’s and advanced auto.

Was thinking something like this ?

Sheath keeps in the heat, bad.

14 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

And when i would do this: Dont go for the Heat sleeves...in my opinion that just makes it harder for wires to cool down. Martys procedure of seperating the wires seams like the best idea—at least for me.

What he said.

13 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

On a side note....I wonder what the purpose of the grey looking spray paint is

Attempt to witness if the nut has moved?  Usually, its done with a dab of paint bordering the nut/bolt junction.  Nail polish works well.  A little dab'l do ya.

[Smoother]

Question: has anyone actually witnessed movement between the pedal arm and axle (by eyes on the joint, not but rocking the assembled wheel with motor on).  I read all these loose axle posts but no one has actually documented a case of visually identifying movement at this joint.  It's even as obscure as people going in to tighten axle nuts that are already tight.   What's going on?

[US69]

9 minutes ago, Smoother said:

Question: has anyone actually witnessed movement between the pedal arm and axle (by eyes on the joint, not but rocking the assembled wheel with motor on).  I read all these loose axle posts but no one has actually documented a case of visually identifying movement at this joint.  It's even as obscure as people going in to tighten axle nuts that are already tight.   What's going on?

The Thing is even when the nut has some tightness left...it still might not be enough when the torque of the wheel attacks the pedal arm, so yeah, mostly it is just "more" tightening the nut!

The best you can see the movement on the 2 shims Holding the axle, which get teared down and bent...and even when they look really disgusting, you still might not see "directly free" nut moving....but it is there when your 60-100kg tries to move the wheel :-)

[Marty Backe]

14 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

I just tested it on the other side with a socket wrench ...they defiantly keep the nit from turning . Their length is the key I believe . The nut turns ever so slightly (maybe 1/8 turn ) and then stops . The keys hit the plastic of The shell at that point wedging themselves in harder. 

Good to know, thanks.

I used a thread locker on my Monster and ACM. Time will tell how effective that is.

[Scott Henley]

23 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

Ah, nice . Yeah 2” seemed a bit wide. I was going to look for a thinner product . The one you used looks nice . Do you think it’s necessary? Others have stated they don’t believe it is . 

So... @Rehab1, @Marty Backe @KingSong69 @Smoother...looks like I had close call . Got busy, didn’t take the wheel apart yesterday. I did today . Mosfet has a burn in it ...thoughts ?

@Jason McNeil...you have one of these in stock ? 67v 12 mosfet ACM board . ?

[Rehab1]

1 hour ago, Scott Henley said:

So... @Rehab1, @Marty Backe @KingSong69 @Smoother...looks like I had close call . Got busy, didn’t take the wheel apart yesterday. I did today . Mosfet has a burn in it ...thoughts ?

My first thought is damn! Second thought WTF! I would seriously consider replacing the board. No sense on taking a chance. If you don’t replace it the thought of a faceplant will linger in the back of your mind everytime you ride. Sorry man!

[Scott Henley]

Just now, Rehab1 said:

My first thought is damn! Second thought WTF! I would seriously consider replacing the board. No sense on taking a chance. If you don’t replace it the thought of a faceplant will linger in the back of your mind everytime you ride. Sorry man!

Well damn . That’s not what I wanted to hear. Honestly this wheel has been a major , major pain in my ass. I love riding it. ACM is defiantly a fun machine . But first the xt 60 blows . And after reviewing all the responses I got ...it looks like I did follow the correct sequence when re connecting the wires . But it still blew up in my face . Now this ...I guess new board and new shell while I’m at it . Not what I was expecting when I opened it up 

[Scott Henley]

@Rehab1, damn and wtf were my first thoughts too. If I had ridden 20-30 more minuets that burn probably would have gone through and caused a major accident. I ride fast . So I guess in all reality I should be thankful. I got really really lucky . And a board isn’t very expensive. 

[Scott Henley]

So here is a photo of the board in about to order , and a photo of my wiring . My wheel doesn’t use bullet connectors. It’s a 3 pin connector similar to the xt60. How do I go about changing my connections to bullet ?? 

[steve454]

1 hour ago, Scott Henley said:

So... @Rehab1, @Marty Backe @KingSong69 @Smoother...looks like I had close call . Got busy, didn’t take the wheel apart yesterday. I did today . Mosfet has a burn in it ...thoughts ?

@Jason McNeil...you have one of these in stock ? 67v 12 mosfet ACM board . ?

Is it the top one?  I don't see which one.  All the legs look unburnt.

[Scott Henley]

4 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Is it the top one?  I don't see which one.  All the legs look unburnt.

Second to top . Not blown . Still works . But damn near burnt through 

[steve454]

1 minute ago, Scott Henley said:

Second to top 

Ah, now I see it, thanks.  Good thing you saw that before it failed completely.

[Scott Henley]

6 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Ah, now I see it, thanks.  Good thing you saw that before it failed completely.

Right ! Scariest part is it was fine Monday . Took the side panel off the take a pic for @Marty Backe. Didn’t have time to look at the shims so put it back and went on a ride. The sidewalk I was on runs right along a major 4 lane highway that is very busy and has a speed limit of 55. I was running 18-22mph most of the way. (It’s a very smooth path with no pedestrian traffic ) if I had a cut out there I could have ended up in the highway ...run over multiple times . 

[Scott Henley]

So. Here is another bit of mystery . The wheel is now completely dis assembled . And my original issue which was back and forth play in the wheel is still baffling me. The pedal brackets feel tight . The nuts are not loose . I tried pushing the brackets in opposite directions to see if they would give at all ...and they don’t . So does this mean everything is tight ? Could the shims still be the issue ? I’m about to take the brackets off and have a look at them now . 

[Scott Henley]

And @Marty Backe and @KingSong69 here is a better look at the flywheel keys with shell off. They actually sit inside the pedal bracket and hold quite well. 

[Marty Backe]

9 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

So... @Rehab1, @Marty Backe @KingSong69 @Smoother...looks like I had close call . Got busy, didn’t take the wheel apart yesterday. I did today . Mosfet has a burn in it ...thoughts ?

@Jason McNeil...you have one of these in stock ? 67v 12 mosfet ACM board . ?

I don't understand what the issue is. That looks like externally inflicted damage to the casing. Almost like someone letting a soldering iron rest on the MOSFET by accident. Unless you know what caused this, I would venture that it's been there since the wheel was originally assembled. Of course looking at a 2D picture doesn't really let me provide a truly informed opinion.

Is that a bubble or depression? If depression I stick with what I said above. The plastic itself has not bearing on the functionality of the MOSFET. It just provides protection to the semiconductor.

[Marty Backe]

6 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

And @Marty Backe and @KingSong69 here is a better look at the flywheel keys with shell off. They actually sit inside the pedal bracket and hold quite well. 

Great picture. I can see how the keys can get wedged against the pedal hanger.

 

6 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

So. Here is another bit of mystery . The wheel is now completely dis assembled . And my original issue which was back and forth play in the wheel is still baffling me. The pedal brackets feel tight . The nuts are not loose . I tried pushing the brackets in opposite directions to see if they would give at all ...and they don’t . So does this mean everything is tight ? Could the shims still be the issue ? I’m about to take the brackets off and have a look at them now . 

So what did you find? Are the shims distorted or pristine?

[Scott Henley]

34 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

I don't understand what the issue is. That looks like externally inflicted damage to the casing. Almost like someone letting a soldering iron rest on the MOSFET by accident. Unless you know what caused this, I would venture that it's been there since the wheel was originally assembled. Of course looking at a 2D picture doesn't really let me provide a truly informed opinion.

Is that a bubble or depression? If depression I stick with what I said above. The plastic itself has not bearing on the functionality of the MOSFET. It just provides protection to the semiconductor.

Maybe this is a better view? It’s a fairly deep depression. Wasn’t there Monday morning . Below is also an earlier photo. You can see the green motor wire runs directly over the exact spot of the depression . Had to have been made by the green motor wire . My concern is this happening again and the wire melting through the rest of the plastic blowing the mosfet and subsequently leaving a new depression in the asphalt with my face .

[Scott Henley]

41 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Great picture. I can see how the keys can get wedged against the pedal hanger.

 

So what did you find? Are the shims distorted or pristine?

My clamp isn’t strong enough to hold the wheel safely . I’ve got to grab a larger one from work tomorrow. 

[Rehab1]

8 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

So here is a photo of the board in about to order , and a photo of my wiring . My wheel doesn’t use bullet connectors. It’s a 3 pin connector similar to the xt60. How do I go about changing my connections to bullet ?? 

Here is a video of me changing out my previous ACM bullet connectors. Hope it helps.

If bored here is a link to the entire rebuild a year ago.

 

[Marty Backe]

16 minutes ago, Scott Henley said:

Maybe this is a better view? It’s a fairly deep depression. Wasn’t there Monday morning . Below is also an earlier photo. You can see the green motor wire runs directly over the exact spot of the depression . Had to have been made by the green motor wire . My concern is this happening again and the wire melting through the rest of the plastic blowing the mosfet and subsequently leaving a new depression in the asphalt with my face .

Ah, now these pictures say it all. The wire was laying across the MOSFET, got extremely hot, and melted a bit of the MOSFET case. Gotway should see this picture (maybe @Jason McNeil can forward it to them) to show them the importance of providing a better wiring harness than they currently do.

If it were my wheel I would secure the motor wires in such a way that they can't touch each other or the control board. I certainly would not replace the control board. Like I said somewhere else tonight, the plastic MOSFET casing protects the internal semiconductor. It serves no other purpose.

[Marty Backe]

8 hours ago, Scott Henley said:

So here is a photo of the board in about to order , and a photo of my wiring . My wheel doesn’t use bullet connectors. It’s a 3 pin connector similar to the xt60. How do I go about changing my connections to bullet ?? 

Wonder what the history of this wheel is? This is a 12-MOSFET version? Maybe some of the old-timers are familiar with these earlier motor connectors, but I don't recall seeing one before.

In my opinion, if you're going to go to the trouble of soldering new connectors on the wires, I would just skip the connectors all together. It's not like you have to disconnect these wires very often. My ACM and Monster wires are soldered together.

[Scott Henley]

7 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Here is a video of me changing out my previous ACM bullet connectors. Hope it helps.

 

Yes . Great help ! @Marty Backe seems to believe the pcb is okay to continue to use but if I keep it I definitely want to lengthen the motor wires coming off the board so I’d probably use bullets to accomplish the job. As it is now , these wires are so short that the really only routing option IS as it came with them running directly over the mosfets .