steve454 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 18 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: You want perfectly clean surfaces so the thermo paste optimally transfers heat. Doh! That might be the reason I had to replace more than one ignition module on my old truck! I probably didn't clean it properly before putting the new paste. I didn't use a solvent IFRC, think I just wiped it off with a rag, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 42 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: That’s about the thickness of the padding I’ve got . Didn’t know if there was any risk of excess heat around the battery that could be caused by doing this . @Rehab1, you’re the man, man. Thanks ! Here I think @Rehab1 is a bit out-to-lunch - not everything he says is a gem. Additional padding can place additional pressure on the batteries which can increase the possibility of a lithium-ion compression explosion. Don't keep it in the house if you're going to do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 37 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Additional padding can place additional pressure on the batteries which can increase the possibility of a lithium-ion compression explosion. Don't keep it in the house if you're going to do this. There is truth to your argument but I was under the impression the batteries were loose in the compartment, possibly from compression and/or shrinkage of the existing foam over time. Riding with batteries bouncing around in the compartment could mean Boom Boom. Edit: Meet you in the middle. Instead of 1/16” would you settle for additional padding the thickness of a pubic hair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 14 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Here I think @Rehab1 is a bit out-to-lunch - not everything he says is a gem. Additional padding can place additional pressure on the batteries which can increase the possibility of a lithium-ion compression explosion. Don't keep it in the house if you're going to do this. Ha Ha! LOL. Ninebot don't do that I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 21 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: There is truth to your argument but I was under the impression the batteries were loose in the compartment, possibly from compression and/or shrinkage of the existing foam over time. Riding with batteries bouncing around in the compartment could mean Boom Boom. Yes. Batteries are not secure anymore . They knock on the side of the shell when I jump or go over bumps . It’s annoying . And dangerous apparently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 14 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Yes. Batteries are not secure anymore . They knock on the side of the shell when I jump or go over bumps . It’s annoying . And dangerous apparently @Marty Backe has a valid point about excessive pressure. I used 1/16 “ foam and it worked great for me. No side bulging. Smooth fit. Just experiment with various thicknesses until you obtain the exact dimension that reduces your knocking. I even thought about using self stick Velcro instead of the foam to anchor the packs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 9 hours ago, Scott Henley said: Also...is there any harm in putting some light padding on top of or under the battery packs to keep them from knocking around in the shell. The sticky stuff that holds the batteries down is no longer sticky . No harm at all. All good actually. Knocking around is not good for them. But being severely squeezed is not good either. If you have to force the cover on, it's too tight and something is under tension that might be bad for it. EDIT sorry for all the repeated info, I didn't see the second page of responses when I replied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 I need to clarify (maybe for newbies reading this) that my post about exploding batteries was in jest I assume @Scott Henley would be using a common sense amount of padding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Just now, Marty Backe said: I need to clarify (maybe for newbies reading this) that my post about exploding batteries was in jest I assume @Scott Henley would be using a common sense amount of padding. Haha. I figured it was just some friendly ribbing . I’ll do my best to avoid any further explosions and/or fires whilst performing maintenance on my GW wheels . (As we all know KS don’t require such actions ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 By the way @Marty Backe, it looks like I’ll be needing to source those shims after all. Nuts are tight and play continues. Off today so finally breaking it down completely to have a look but I’m expecting to find they have some distortion. Either that or it’s some weird mechanical/electrical issue . Hoping it’s not the latter . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 9 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: By the way @Marty Backe, it looks like I’ll be needing to source those shims after all. Nuts are tight and play continues. Off today so finally breaking it down completely to have a look but I’m expecting to find they have some distortion. Either that or it’s some weird mechanical/electrical issue . Hoping it’s not the latter . Will be interested to see what you find. Before removing the nuts, take a good side-view look at how the nut is compressing the shims. They should look nicely aligned. It may be that the shims shifted in time as the nuts loosened, but they shifted in such a way that prevented the nuts from being re-tightened. You'll know when you see the shims (I think my last maintenance video had some nice closeup views of what good shims look like. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 6 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Will be interested to see what you find. Before removing the nuts, take a good side-view look at how the nut is compressing the shims. They should look nicely aligned. It may be that the shims shifted in time as the nuts loosened, but they shifted in such a way that prevented the nuts from being re-tightened. You'll know when you see the shims (I think my last maintenance video had some nice closeup views of what good shims look like. Good luck. Ah, this would make sense . I’m pretty sure the original owner did tighten them down at one point . So this would mean they felt loose to him at some point . He also installed flywheel keys to keep the nuts from turning in the future. Here’s to hoping they are just slightly misaligned, not allowing the nut to fully go down . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 1 minute ago, Scott Henley said: Ah, this would make sense . I’m pretty sure the original owner did tighten them down at one point . So this would mean they felt loose to him at some point . He also installed flywheel keys to keep the nuts from turning in the future. Here’s to hoping they are just slightly misaligned, not allowing the nut to fully go down . If you get a chance, could you take a picture of how these flywheel keys are installed. I understand the concept but not how it was exactly done on the ACM. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 5 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: If you get a chance, could you take a picture of how these flywheel keys are installed. I understand the concept but not how it was exactly done on the ACM. Thanks. Absolutely, I’m at lowes now trying to find some of that heat shield sheathing . The tear down will commence once I get back. I’ll post the photo here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Marty Backe said: I need to clarify (maybe for newbies reading this) that my post about exploding batteries was in jest I assume @Scott Henley would be using a common sense amount of padding. @Scott Henley actually bought my spiked pedals to make sure the batteries don’t move during transport. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 35 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: Absolutely, I’m at lowes now trying to find some of that heat shield sheathing . The tear down will commence once I get back. I’ll post the photo here. I just caught this. What type of heat shielding are you looking for? Are you planning to shield the motor wires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 10 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: I just caught this. What type of heat shielding are you looking for? Are you planning to shield the motor wires? Yes, just the motor wires . I’ve seen a few photos of GW wheels with this type of sheathing . Seemed like a decent idea . My motor wires are fairly short so rerouting then is a bit of an issue . I’ve noticed a lot of failures come from the wires getting hot and burning the mosfets . Unfortunately I struck out at Lowe’s and advanced auto. Was thinking something like this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 18 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: @Scott Henley actually bought my spiked pedals to make sure the batteries don’t move during transport. Yes , the spikes really bite into the blue shrink wrap around the cells. Works a treat . ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Scott Henley said: Yes, just the motor wires . I’ve seen a few photos of GW wheels with this type of sheathing . Seemed like a decent idea . My motor wires are fairly short so rerouting then is a bit of an issue . I’ve noticed a lot of failures come from the wires getting hot and burning the mosfets . Unfortunately I struck out at Lowe’s and advanced auto. Was thinking something like this ? Just to clarify, it's possible (happened to one of my ACMs) that the wires can get so hot that they melt together which ultimately results in blown MOSFETs. To be clear, this is only a possibility if you are climbing extreme hills (where you are really leaning into the wheel yet it's still moving very slowly). Unless you have those kind of hills and you intend to climb them, I would worry too much about it. What I did was use zip ties to separate the wire so even if the insulation gets real soft, the wires can't touch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 2 hours ago, Marty Backe said: If you get a chance, could you take a picture of how these flywheel keys are installed. I understand the concept but not how it was exactly done on the ACM. Thanks. I would also love to see that...“flywheel“ thingie installed :-) To the padding and @Marty Backe ‚s advice that to much pressure can be bad: I doubt that on any Gotwheel wheel you can pressure the batterys by the sidepads. Befor any pressure would happen, the screws would get bad and you won’t be able to close the wheel at all ....(just kidding here, guys ;-)) In fact it is better to pad them up...loose battery is very bad! I would not worry to much about the wire heat...as long as you are not climbing massive hills or do hillclimbing for longer time, there should be no problem! Just when massive amps are applied over longer time, the wiring-or the connecting soldier or another weak point- gets attacked. We all have to remember from time to time, that we are still riding low voltage battery devices...so any massive power surge, like steep hill climbing, or longer idling on one place, should be avoided. Its not only bad for the hardware of the wheel....it also shortens the lifetime of our batteries.... And when i would do this: Dont go for the Heat sleeves...in my opinion that just makes it harder for wires to cool down. Martys procedure of seperating the wires seams like the best idea—at least for me. Other than that: Keep going ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 3 hours ago, Marty Backe said: If you get a chance, could you take a picture of how these flywheel keys are installed. I understand the concept but not how it was exactly done on the ACM. Thanks. @Marty Backe @KingSong69. Here you go. It honestly sounds more impressive than it actually is . Lol basically just small metal rectangles that go on either side of the nut. They wedge in place keeping the nut tight . On a side note....I wonder what the purpose of the grey looking spray paint is. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 16 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: @Marty Backe @KingSong69. Here you go. It honestly sounds more impressive than it actually is . Lol basically just small metal rectangles that go on either side of the nut. They wedge in place keeping the nut tight . On a side note....I wonder what the purpose of the grey looking spray paint is. ? Aaah, ok, thanx for the picture! Ok...i dont know what i imagined...but it was more than that :-) The grey spray? Perhaps just for controlling purpose, to see i üf anything has moved? Who knows :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 27 minutes ago, Scott Henley said: @Marty Backe @KingSong69. Here you go. It honestly sounds more impressive than it actually is . Lol basically just small metal rectangles that go on either side of the nut. They wedge in place keeping the nut tight . On a side note....I wonder what the purpose of the grey looking spray paint is. ? Great picture. Thanks. I'm not convinced that they do anything since the outside edges are simply pressed against a round hole. What prevents them from turning? Nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 3 hours ago, Scott Henley said: Yes, just the motor wires . I’ve seen a few photos of GW wheels with this type of sheathing . Seemed like a decent idea . My motor wires are fairly short so rerouting then is a bit of an issue . I’ve noticed a lot of failures come from the wires getting hot and burning the mosfets . Unfortunately I struck out at Lowe’s and advanced auto. Was thinking something like this ? The insulation looks promising. The 2” diameter is a bit concerning for 14 awg wires. This is the insulation I used. I need to check where I purchased it but a blow torch never melted the shield. Edit: I found the sleeve I used. Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Silicone-Coated-Fiberglass-Sleeve/dp/B01HIYOB1Y Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Henley Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 3 hours ago, Marty Backe said: Great picture. Thanks. I'm not convinced that they do anything since the outside edges are simply pressed against a round hole. What prevents them from turning? Nothing. I just tested it on the other side with a socket wrench ...they defiantly keep the nit from turning . Their length is the key I believe . The nut turns ever so slightly (maybe 1/8 turn ) and then stops . The keys hit the plastic of The shell at that point wedging themselves in harder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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