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Gotway Tesla Tire Not Rotating Freely and Won't Turn Start


Nate Bryan
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Rode in the snow for a few hours then it started to shut off when I brake. I kept restarting and I noticed the gyro getting weak at about the 3rd time It shutoff It wouldn't restart at all. When I press the power button now, it doesn't start and only the light ring comes on. Stuck.

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It could also be just too much humidity inside the wheel, due to the use in the snow... Maybe keeping the wheel in a dry and hot place, the problem disappears.

But you should open it to see if, at least visually, you notice something wrong.

Edited by FULspeed
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On 1/9/2018 at 8:28 AM, Steve Persona said:

If the tire is not turning freely , open side panel and disconnect the battery ,if the wheel spins freely now you have a burnt mosfet.

Disconnect the motor, not the battery, although disconnecting the battery is also a great idea before poking around. :o

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On 12/18/2017 at 12:05 AM, US69 said:

I dont know what you mean by "gyro getting weak"....

But symptoms like Tire is stuck/has fristion and wont turn on...A Mosfet has burned! 

Thanks a lot I'm super late with response "Tesla started slowing down and turning off while I was standing on it riding". It would not self balance as intended. I guess I have to get a new board then.

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On 12/18/2017 at 3:59 AM, FULspeed said:

It could also be just too much humidity inside the wheel, due to the use in the snow... Maybe keeping the wheel in a dry and hot place, the problem disappears.

But you should open it to see if, at least visually, you notice something wrong.

I definitely did all of the steps mentioned below. Wheel never spun freely. Thanks for the input and highly appreciated. PS I'm super late

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On 3/16/2018 at 5:37 AM, Shad0z said:

im getting the feeling this is what happened to my tesla too...

riding in snow for a while then braking

and wheel fell and mosfet blew

 

so dont ride in snow for too much time

I'll definitely take that into account

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On 12/18/2017 at 1:22 PM, meepmeepmayer said:

When people realize a Tesla is still a Gotway:efeeab781c:

Open it up and have a look. Or just contact the seller and ask what he wants you to do and how to get it fixed/returned (if you can).

Unfortunately I bought it secondhand smh

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On 3/16/2018 at 8:09 AM, WARPed1701D said:

Disconnect the motor, not the battery, although disconnecting the battery is also a great idea before poking around. :o

I'll definitely do another diagnosis soon and update you guys on the status. I have a feeling I need to buy a new motor and main board.

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Very unlikely the motor is damaged. But it seems clear the board is.

@Jason McNeil (ewheels.com) surely can help you with a new board and some moral support/instructions.

In general:

  • Disconnect the battery connector (red and black cables coming from the board into a yellow, rectangular-ish connector) but keep the other cables between the battery packs. Switch on wheel until it turns off due to lack of power (drains the remaining power from the capacitors).
  • If you disconnect the motor - the fat black cable coming out of the axis on the wheel's right side, ending in the 3 golden connectors under the clear heat shrink (you disconnect these), they connect to 3 colored wires from the board - the tire should turn normally when moved by hand (self-braking due to magnetism, but not locked). Just be careful to not damage the hall sensor wires (thin brittle cables also coming out of the motor cable) when unplugging their connector from the board.
  • Put in new board.
  • Be careful to insulate (heat-shrink) the new golden connectors again before connecting back the battery. If they touch uninsulated, they short and will fry the board again (and worst case, do motor damage).
  • Battery connector last, done.

You can post some photos of the board if you see something suspicious. A good start (also helps reconstructing where to put back all the other board connectors).

If the battery was mostly full the last time, it's good. What would have been bad is if it was sitting empty (discharged) for a long time. So no worries there!

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22 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Very unlikely the motor is damaged. But it seems clear the board is.

@Jason McNeil (ewheels.com) surely can help you with a new board and some moral support/instructions.

In general:

  • Disconnect the battery connector (red and black cables coming from the board into a yellow, rectangular-ish connector) but keep the other cables between the battery packs. Switch on wheel until it turns off due to lack of power (drains the remaining power from the capacitors).
  • If you disconnect the motor - the fat black cable coming out of the axis on the wheel's right side, ending in the 3 golden connectors under the clear heat shrink (you disconnect these), they connect to 3 colored wires from the board - the tire should turn normally when moved by hand (self-braking due to magnetism, but not locked). Just be careful to not damage the hall sensor wires (thin brittle cables also coming out of the motor cable) when unplugging their connector from the board.
  • Put in new board.
  • Be careful to insulate (heat-shrink) the new golden connectors again before connecting back the battery. If they touch uninsulated, they short and will fry the board again (and worst case, do motor damage).
  • Battery connector last, done.

You can post some photos of the board if you see something suspicious. A good start (also helps reconstructing where to put back all the other board connectors).

If the battery was mostly full the last time, it's good. What would have been bad is if it was sitting empty (discharged) for a long time. So no worries there!

Ok that's great information that I will use accordingly. I will post some photos up shortly & thank you again.

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