Gimlet Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Seems a little complex to me by the time you've added the fan as instructed and then added input and output plugs and set both the input and output voltages.There's a lot of room for mistakes to be made. It does seem to fit through required range of voltages though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I don't think you have to add fan for roughly 2.5A output or set input voltage. No need for plugs either just screw terminals.If done properly, voltage set to 67.2V it should work, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 I have bought a DC-DC converter and plugs. I will post the pinout of the charger plug and polarity, and then the results of charging in a car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 I have bought a DC-DC converter and plugs. I will post the pinout of the charger plug and polarity, and then the results of charging in a car.Sounds good, looking forward to hear it. Which one did you ordered? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted August 19, 2015 Author Share Posted August 19, 2015 Sounds good, looking forward to hear it. Which one did you ordered?This one. It is a male and female kit:http://es.aliexpress.com/item/LEMO-plug-self-locking-connector-PAG-M0-4GL-AC39V-PLG-M0-4GL-LV-glaze-concavity/32274404303.htmlI'll check charger polarity in the female plug when received. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted August 19, 2015 Share Posted August 19, 2015 This one. It is a male and female kit:http://es.aliexpress.com/item/LEMO-plug-self-locking-connector-PAG-M0-4GL-AC39V-PLG-M0-4GL-LV-glaze-concavity/32274404303.htmlI'll check charger polarity in the female plug when received.I was curious what converter you are getting.thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 I was curious what converter you are getting.thanksThis one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291464169057 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Rotator, do you have any updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Rotator, do you have any updates?Yes, I have.The DC-DC converter did not arrive yet, but I have the connectors so we can begin to learn about the voltage needed to charge the 9b1.The charger specifications in the label says 61V. This is a bit strange, since the battery are 15s 2p cells, so they would need 15*4.2v= 63v.Yesterday I was checking the ninebot charger with a good voltage tester, at different loads.63.1 volts at 63 ma63.0 volts at 186 ma62.9 volts at 695 ma62.8 volts at 1336 maIt appears to be a switching power supply rated at about 63v, with a normal voltage drop when rising the load.The led changes its color from green to red at about 175ma. Any current below this changes the colour to green (full battery). Higher current make the led goes to red (charging state).I do not know yet, if the BMS cut off the current at some moment, or continues to charge the cells beyond this point, even when the charger led is green.About polarity, if you look at the port socket in the ninebot, you will see four holes for the charger pins, and the key slot (to drive the connector in the right way) at the top.The left holes, are not connected. The right holes are for the charger voltage supply. The upper one is positive polarity (63volts) and the lower one is negative polarity (ground or zero volts).As soon as I can, I'll monitorize the charger process with a oscilloscope, int the voltage, current and time domain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Got mine yesterday and went to test it right away. It took me a while to translate the bad english. Had little trouble it didn't work I plugged it in car 12V outlet in trunk.Then I connected it directly to battery and started to get some results. It works really good, I am glad I ordered the one with digital display it is much easier to see both voltage and current output values. Put little12V computer fan on it to cool it down. BMS controls the demand, started with 58V and ended up at 67.3V. current started at about 2.3.A and went down to 0.4A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Got mine yesterday and went to test it right away. It took me a while to translate the bad english. Had little trouble it didn't work I plugged it in car 12V outlet in trunk.Then I connected it directly to battery and started to get some results. It works really good, I am glad I ordered the one with digital display it is much easier to see both voltage and current output values. Put little12V computer fan on it to cool it down. BMS controls the demand, started with 58V and ended up at 67.3V. current started at about 2.3.A and went down to 0.4A.Did you configure the DC-DC converter as constant current charger? how much?This will explain why begin with only 58v.Anyway, for safety reasons, the converter never must supply any voltage higher than 63v, although the BMS probably protect the batteries in some way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Did you configure the DC-DC converter as constant current charger? how much?This will explain why begin with only 58v.Anyway, for safety reasons, the converter never must supply any voltage higher than 63v, although the BMS probably protect the batteries in some way.I think @525rider has a Firewheel, which uses 16S batteries. When checking with Charge Doctor & the original charger, my Firewheel starts to load at around 56V (if ridden all the way to empty), and the constant current phase continues until the voltage reaches around 67.8 (so 4.2375V per cell), and then the current starts to lower. The light on the charger turns green when the charging currents drops to around 250mA (but will continue to charge until it drops to 0.00A, which can take up to an hour, I think this is the cell balancing phase?).Edit: Ninebots use 15S packs, so with those the voltage should never go as high, 4.2V * 15 = 63V, I think that's what @Rotator was referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 I think @525rider has a Firewheel, which uses 16S batteries. When checking with Charge Doctor & the original charger, my Firewheel starts to load at around 56V (if ridden all the way to empty), and the constant current phase continues until the voltage reaches around 67.8 (so 4.2375V per cell), and then the current starts to lower. The light on the charger turns green when the charging currents drops to around 250mA (but will continue to charge until it drops to 0.00A, which can take up to an hour, I think this is the cell balancing phase?).Edit: Ninebots use 15S packs, so with those the voltage should never go as high, 4.2V * 15 = 63V, I think that's what @Rotator was referring to.Thanks.And sorry, I did not think in another brand, since this post is in the ninebot forum.What you said matches very good with a 16S battery euc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Did you configure the DC-DC converter as constant current charger? how much? I don't know what you mean by that.Yeah I have F528 and the charger output is 67.3V and 1.75A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimlet Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Out of interest if you were to set the voltage down a little to 64 or 65V would that effectivly limit the battery to about 95% charge and yet still allow you to leave it connected for cell balancing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I will try it next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 I don't know what you mean by that.Yeah I have F528 and the charger output is 67.3V and 1.75A.A charger configured as a constant current source, adjust its voltage automatically so the device always is draining the specified current.If you adjust it to 2 amperes, the charger will supply whatever voltage (inside its limits) to put 2 amperes through the euc battery. This voltage will go increasing over time since the battery will need more voltage to accept the same constant current, beacuse its internal resistance will increase with the charge.So the question was, in your power supply, did you adjust a voltage (specified voltage, any current the battery wants) or a current (constant current, any voltage needed to force the specified curent through the battery)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 I don't think you can force it, on the converter I set the voltage limit to 67.3 and the current to 2A ( that's the maximum the unit would supply in this case ).I think that the BMS controls what the batteries need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 I don't think you can force it, on the converter I set the voltage limit to 67.3 and the current to 2A ( that's the maximum the unit would supply in this case ).I think that the BMS controls what the batteries need.Thank you. If you have set the current limit in the converter, then you have configured it as a constant current source, lowering automatically the voltage to the level needed to never exceed the 2A current.Power supplies with current limit, work in this way.So the started voltage was low to 58v at start. This voltage it will depend on the remaining battery charge before starting.If you want charge it quickly, you can set a higher current limit.Probably you could charge the battery at 4A. It depends on the cells specification, and the BMS itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Probably you could charge the battery at 4A. It depends on the cells specification, and the BMS itself.I bought 4A Gotway-charger from vee for faster loading, although I haven't used it very often. Seems to work ok even with Firewheel F260 having 2 packs (so 2A per pack, which is still below 1C charging). F520 has 4 packs, so probably not a problem there either (although I don't know how it affects that they're all behind a single BMS). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Thank you. If you have set the current limit in the converter, then you have configured it as a constant current source, lowering automatically the voltage to the level needed to never exceed the 2A current.Power supplies with current limit, work in this way.So the started voltage was low to 58v at start. This voltage it will depend on the remaining battery charge before starting.If you want charge it quickly, you can set a higher current limit.Probably you could charge the battery at 4A. It depends on the cells specification, and the BMS itself.Looks like the converter's max output is about 110W, so with starting voltage 58V the max current is 2A and with the rising voltage current goes down accordingly to a total of 110W.I did little different riding this time, faster and more hills, but i looks to me that I am not getting the mileage after charge with the converter, have to do more testing, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommiAn Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I want to know about the Ninebot? What kind of device is this? What are its specifications for Input and output? Where it has the applications? Also i want to know that what kind of the connectors you are looking for?pcb assembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Finally, I have received the DC-DC converter. There was a problem with the shipment, and I had to buy another one. This time I bought the 400W DC-DC with display to make the things easier.http://www.ebay.com/itm/331591959890?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITI have soldered cables,connectors and so on...I have used a 12V 12A DC output power supply at home to test.Voltage set at 63v. Current limit at 2.0 amps.Anyway, the DC-DC converter goes into CV mode (constant voltage) and it only can supply about 55v and 1.4amps.This is because the limit of the DC converter (max. current of the input stage).Anyway, the charger it works. It charges the battery (at half power of the AC adaptor). Slow. It needs more time.The input wires get very hot (because the high current). It will need wires that can handle 15 amps.It is supposed to be better in a real car, because the voltage usually is not 12V, but about 14.4v. So the high currents needed will be a bit lower, or the charge process will be faster, depending on the current limit that you can set on the DC-DC charger (if any). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rotator Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 ...I did little different riding this time, faster and more hills, but i looks to me that I am not getting the mileage after charge with the converter, have to do more testing,My battery was fully charged with this dc-dc converter.I ran 20km and then, the battery was at 30%, which is very good for the E model I have.Be carefull with charging in a car. If you have the car powered off, this could drain your car battery.If you charges it while driving, be sure that the hot converter will not burn anything. Warning with possible fire.And warning with shortcuts or electric shocks, because the converter is no insulated into a case.Anyway, a great accessory for the price that it costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
525rider Posted October 2, 2015 Share Posted October 2, 2015 I agree, it works great I've been testing-using it for over a month now, just came back from a road trip where I charged my F528 couple of times while driving.Yes the input is 10A max. and using 12V battery you get only about 112W output and with engine running and 14V input about 120W which is pretty close to the original charger.It gets little too hot so I attached little 12V DC computer fan, problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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