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LEO_LEO

GT16: bip when change direction

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@G.Rhum I haven't made your test because my wheel is very new and I'm too afraid to break it :facepalm:   ... but sure my wheel never makes your second strange sound

Today before the night, when the sun is going down, after work if I am in time I make a video, actually, a documentary fit for CNN International :smartass:

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1 hour ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said:

Where did you buy your wheel from?  Did you try contacting the Rockwheel store people on AliExpress?  How about @Barry Chen @Yi Chen?  Is there still support for Rockwheel customers?

@Barry Chen and @Yi Chen are very corrects, they are in favour for helping me,  if I think the wheel is not perfect and I want change the controller, I have to disassemble the controller and send it, they will send me a new controller. But before disassembling pieces, I would be sure that the operation could improve the wheel (It seems to me little powerful uphill)  in my ignorance it seems that the controller has not problems, it beeps above 3000 A

So, with this posts, I hope that with the help of the GT16 riders it is possible make a comparison with their wheels , and also @Barry Chenand @Yi Chen can achieve more accurate diagnosis and understand if the wheel really has problems or not , and then confirm if changing the controller the problem will be fixed 

Edited by LEO_LEO
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Oh that's good to hear.  :thumbup:  I haven't seen Barry on the forums lately so I wasn't sure if you were in contact with the RW people.  It sounds like you're in good hands and will be well taken care of.  Judging by the videos of people doing the pendulum online with the GT16, it does appear that your wheel might have the newer firmware that warns you a bit earlier.  It's difficult to tell if the hill climbing ability is out of range for that wheel or whether it could be a weak battery pack (or some cells in it).  It sounds like to me that maybe the pack isn't able to provide enough current under heavy load so the draw during hill climbs and pendulums triggers the beeps.

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On 2017-11-09 at 5:57 PM, LEO_LEO said:

The max I've tried is 30%, and that wen't well. But then I came at the climb with a bit of speed, maybe 20kph. Starting uphill is a bit more tricky as you can get quite bad transients. One thing you can do if you have the space is start of diagonally going slalom uphill until you've built enough speed to straighten it out.

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I have retrieved other data

this is the wheel in the plain road

1.jpg.254fc904758fca642f8ac51cd91e4baf.jpg

 

this is the uphill wheel, the part before the ramp

2.jpg.312d7b402e91a54adf70ac7ef36a4e30.jpg

 

this is where the steep climb begins

3.jpg.6ad617f53d8c043aa2f28c1fda8232f9.jpg

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here the the slope of the road

b_pic.jpg.04af059c5a48fdcb3f6c5132179ad929.jpg / b_gran.jpg.f755214bbecfb461ebdf494a63431fd1.jpg 

other measurement

b2_min.thumb.jpg.122dbc4327afb3a19a9402f1cab29d03.jpgb2_max.thumb.jpg.c9f6af2e3bd408665a6cfd0405b6a413.jpg

 

at the final, the slope it is 45-50 % 

 

 

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3.jpg.6ad617f53d8c043aa2f28c1fda8232f9.j

my doubts are:

is the normal performance of gt16?
how can you keep the wheel in this strain?

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25 -28 ° !!!

it seems it's not the GT16 who is weak but the One E+ is very strong ! (for a 500 W)

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i tested mine saturday on a good slope, GT16 is clearly stronger than my MCM4 V2 !!

Edited by G.Rhum
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My impression, as written earlier, is that my gt16 is very good in the plain, but it is not designed for steep ascents. Of course even my gt16 is stronger than the Ninebot one +, but not so much as I thought, for this I was looking for a comparison with other owners.

As you can see in the graph 1, going dast the Ampere are below 20 A (five stars: very, very good :) ), in medium strong up hill road ( graph 2, the wheel  can go but it sometime it must use more then 30 A (three stars, sometime it beeps, it is no too good but it is bearable ) but if am in a very strong up hill  road, at slow speed my wheel suffers a lot (1 star ) 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, LEO_LEO said:

My impression, as written earlier, is that my gt16 is very good in the plain, but it is not designed for steep ascents. Of course even my gt16 is stronger than the Ninebot one +, but not so much as I thought, for this I was looking for a comparison with other owners.

As you can see in the graph 1, going dast the Ampere are below 20 A (five stars: very, very good :) ), in medium strong up hill road ( graph 2, the wheel  can go but it sometime it must use more then 30 A (three stars, sometime it beeps, it is no too good but it is bearable ) but if am in a very strong up hill  road, at slow speed my wheel suffers a lot (1 star ) 

 

 

Look at the Performance of the 800Watt KS14d:

 

The GT16 with 2000Watt should AT LEAST be able to get up such a hill with 25degree like yours.....

Test your wheel on this hill with a Little Speed (15-20kmh) build up before you enter the hill!

Then it should be able to do that hill. When you just do a start at the bottom with your weight  and 0kmh might not be so good....

 

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I believe that reading 500w, 800w, 2000w is not correct, it does not count only the power, but as it is dispensed.
My Gt16 is not capable of high power peaks at low wheel revs, probably if I were 60 kg and not 90kg I would not have noticed, but as 90 kg yes ...and the choice of safety in the V2 version with the low calibrated beep increases the perception of this lack when it is under stress at low revs
 
 

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Most really fast EUCs are "geared" for speed more than torque. You can spend all that power to create a slower but stronger force, or a faster but weaker one. If the GT16 had a max speed somewhere around 30 kph, and still had 2000W nominal power, you could probably climb ridiculous hills. But as it is the torque is good, but more optimised for fast running than strong climbing.

I would love to see a next generation of EUCs that has the power to do both. But my guess is that we probably need a higher voltage to be able to do high torque and high max rpm, 100V or somewhere around that number. And then we need battery cells that can deliver more current faster, and still have enough juice to last a while.

The next generation batteries are coming, but sadly they have been a long time coming...

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1 hour ago, Scatcat said:

my guess is that we probably need a higher voltage to be able to do high torque and high max rpm.

...or a heavier motor (more windings give you more speed, thicker coil wires give more torque, but all that copper is heavy),

but for me 17.5kg is about the max I'm willing to live with .')

1 hour ago, Scatcat said:

The next generation batteries are coming, but sadly they have been a long time coming...

The one (and only?) thing that was better about the GT16 V1 was that it was apparently using Samsung 30Q cells (conservatively) rated for 15A, as opposed to the V2 using 10A Panasonic/Sanyo (on both capacity models). That said, I have not noticed any significant current dips so far, but hey, I live on a flatland.

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16 hours ago, Tomek said:

...or a heavier motor (more windings give you more speed, thicker coil wires give more torque, but all that copper is heavy),

but for me 17.5kg is about the max I'm willing to live with .')

The one (and only?) thing that was better about the GT16 V1 was that it was apparently using Samsung 30Q cells (conservatively) rated for 15A, as opposed to the V2 using 10A Panasonic/Sanyo (on both capacity models). That said, I have not noticed any significant current dips so far, but hey, I live on a flatland.

Well I have the old battery packs and the new board and motor... lucky me! :D

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9 minutes ago, Scatcat said:

Well I have the old battery packs and the new board and motor... lucky me! :D

Yes, but unfortunatly thats just a rumour :-)

the v1/v2 858wh are both using the 18650PF with 2900mah/10A

The 30q is 3000mah, that. doesnt work out to 858wh, and this cell is that expensive that until now no serial EUC has used it :-(

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3 hours ago, KingSong69 said:

Yes, but unfortunatly thats just a rumour :-)

the v1/v2 858wh are both using the 18650PF with 2900mah/10A

The 30q is 3000mah, that. doesnt work out to 858wh, and this cell is that expensive that until now no serial EUC has used it :-(

I suspected that was the case. 

Edited by Scatcat
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On 11/13/2017 at 2:45 PM, Tomek said:

The one (and only?) thing that was better about the GT16 V1 was that it was apparently using Samsung 30Q cells (conservatively) rated for 15A, as opposed to the V2 using 10A Panasonic/Sanyo (on both capacity models). That said, I have not noticed any significant current dips so far, but hey, I live on a flatland.

That would be the 1036Wh version using 18650GA. I asked rockwheel store...

18650PF can not do 15A while it is possible for 18650GA for quite a long time (but caution with overheating)

Screenshot_20171115-205611-01.thumb.jpeg.728b5101298b91c0a23512bf627c8991.jpeg

Screenshot_20171115-210010-01.thumb.jpeg.2b3a40aa5e0eb47febbe22d4265d42e2.jpeg

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On 11/13/2017 at 12:35 PM, LEO_LEO said:
I believe that reading 500w, 800w, 2000w is not correct, it does not count only the power, but as it is dispensed.
My Gt16 is not capable of high power peaks at low wheel revs, probably if I were 60 kg and not 90kg I would not have noticed, but as 90 kg yes ...and the choice of safety in the V2 version with the low calibrated beep increases the perception of this lack when it is under stress at low revs
 
 

Motor efficiency increases with speed (and is very bad at slow speed) so you need to get some speed and then it will be much better.

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Yes, now I know, but when increase it's a project choice, and each with choice have its own merits and defects,  watch this wheel:

 

 

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