Barry Chen Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Hello all guys.Here you can clearly look into the video and learn how to disassemable for your GT16. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Chen Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 @Barry Chen, maybe you can answer: 1. what's the best way to remove the power button cover without damaging it? (I want to waterproof the power button) 2. are the two halves of the shelled glued to each other on the top seam with epoxy glue? Looked like that when I removed the chrome strip, but didn't try prying it open to verify. 3. is there a way to adjust the orientation of the wheel vs the shell? e.g. where the pedal mounts attach to the motor shaft? on my wheel it's not symmetric. The wheel is slightly skewed and there's ca. 3mm difference between left and right side, and on one side the tire scrapes the cover (or heatsink). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Chen Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 18 hours ago, Tomek said: @Barry Chen, maybe you can answer: 1. what's the best way to remove the power button cover without damaging it? (I want to waterproof the power button) 2. are the two halves of the shelled glued to each other on the top seam with epoxy glue? Looked like that when I removed the chrome strip, but didn't try prying it open to verify. 3. is there a way to adjust the orientation of the wheel vs the shell? e.g. where the pedal mounts attach to the motor shaft? on my wheel it's not symmetric. The wheel is slightly skewed and there's ca. 3mm difference between left and right side, and on one side the tire scrapes the cover (or heatsink). Hello Tomek. I will post the clear video for you later. Maybe you have to use knife unrip the protection pad on both of two side and then disassemable it . How to adjust the orientation of your GT16 as follow: Firstly you turn off the EUC, and then press the button, a few times after a short long beeping , shut down, After that you turn it on ,you will find it's ok . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Hoffmann Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 6 hours ago, Barry Chen said: Firstly you turn off the EUC, and then press the button, a few times after a short long beeping , shut down, Is this a total shutdown ? For example is this the way to put the wheel in storage without the batteries getting drained in standby mode ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Chen Posted October 18, 2017 Author Share Posted October 18, 2017 16 hours ago, Robert Hoffmann said: Is this a total shutdown ? For example is this the way to put the wheel in storage without the batteries getting drained in standby mode ? The friend ask me how to adjust the orientation for Rockwheel GT16.Because for the gyroscope have something change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Chen Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 On 2017/10/17 at 4:15 PM, Barry Chen said: Hello Tomek. I will post the clear video for you later. Maybe you have to use knife unrip the protection pad on both of two side and then disassemable it . How to adjust the orientation of your GT16 as follow: Firstly you turn off the EUC, and then press the button, a few times after a short long beeping , shut down, After that you turn it on ,you will find it's ok . Here you can clearly watch how to disassamble button cover: 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, Barry Chen said: Here you can clearly watch how to disassamble button cover: thanks @Barry Chen, really good trick with two screwdrivers! I was wondering if you also know a way to remove the power button "flap" (the part in the image below) without breaking its connection? Edited October 19, 2017 by Tomek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 (edited) It's nice to see that they silicone seal up the battery shrink wrap in the video similar to what the Ninebot One E+ batteries are like. It's the little details which really add up in a well thought out wheel design. In a future shell design, if the front and back of the flat parts of the battery box were extended, I wonder if that would allow more batteries to be packed in for those craving higher range. Edited October 19, 2017 by Hunka Hunka Burning Love Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 10 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: It's nice to see that they silicone seal up the battery shrink wrap in the video similar to what the Ninebot One E+ batteries are like. It's the little details which really add up in a well thought out wheel design. In a future shell design, if the front and back of the flat parts of the battery box were extended, I wonder if that would allow more batteries to be packed in for those craving higher range. I think that if you really try, you can manage to distribute one more pack of 20 cells split in two into the space between current packs, but that would be a lot of hassle and difficult to wrap too. Quote well thought out design It isn't. It really lacks a final round of refinement. The little details you mention is exactly what GT16 misses: too tight shell rubbing the tire, fender rubbing the tire when extended, not even attempted waterproofing, no magnetic pedal locks, unpainted internals of air vents, no conformal coating on the pcb, silicone pads glued in place preventing opening the wheel without damaging them, wrong sized and one missing screw hole for mounting the trolley... all those are details which you can with more or less ease fix on your own, but they kill this otherwise fabulous wheel's appeal to those who don't enjoy tinkering and modding stuff. btw. my guess is that the silicone seal is Barry Chen's own mod, my wheel doesn't have it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Chen Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 21 hours ago, Tomek said: thanks @Barry Chen, really good trick with two screwdrivers! I was wondering if you also know a way to remove the power button "flap" (the part in the image below) without breaking its connection? Hey guys.I think the panel is stuck by the glue.You can't and also needn't disassemable it .Why Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Barry Chen said: Hey guys.I think the panel is stuck by the glue.You can't and also needn't disassemable it .Why I want to waterproof the buttons underneath. I saw on videos that the open hole is just covered with sticky tape, and the actual button has no cover at all. It looks like with a bit of rain water will enter straight into the controller compartment... but perhaps I can do it from the inside if it's glued Edited October 20, 2017 by Tomek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Chen Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 28 minutes ago, Tomek said: I want to waterproof the buttons underneath. I saw on videos that the open hole is just covered with sticky tape, and the actual button has no cover at all. It looks like with a bit of rain water will enter straight into the controller compartment... but perhaps I can do it from the inside if it's glued Oh.I thinks is a littel difccult.In the middle of the cover that is stuck by the glue.If you want to disassemable it ,you have to tear it down.And you needn't disassemable it just tear some space between the cove and the button then add waterproof glue on the surface.Can you read understand right?Sorry for my poor English. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 (edited) @Tomek I was speaking in general or maybe more specifically about the Ninebot while trying to nudge other wheel makers to consider the same attention to detail while attempting to preserve "face." Not that Ninebot makes perfect wheels, but they are pretty sturdy and reliable for the most part. Thankfully Rockwheel has a helpful resource on the forums here and is interested in feedback for improvement. Ninebot has the funds of mega-corporation Xiaomi behind it. We have to keep in mind that some of these smaller EUC companies don't have deep pockets to invest in developing the "perfect" wheel straight off the bat. Now imagine if you took your life savings and put a large portion of it to contract out a design for a new shell, new control board and motor. Each revision and detail will cost you more. Do you sell the farm to produce an all out killer wheel, or do you spend more towards performance and make a cool looking wheel that should be "good enough?" These wheels are more hobbyist grade devices rather than polished Lexus flagship vehicles. It's easy to forget that we're still in the pioneering days of the Model T here as I see it. If these continue to take off, expect to see evolution and improvement with some shortcomings in the mix. Hopefully the ones who listen and see what improvements and features consumers are looking for will modify future designs and be rewarded for doing so with increased sales. Edited October 20, 2017 by Hunka Hunka Burning Love 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 1 hour ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Ninebot has the funds of mega-corporation Xiaomi behind it. We have to keep in mind that some of these smaller EUC companies don't have deep pockets to invest in developing the "perfect" wheel straight off the bat. Now imagine if you took your life savings and put a large portion of it to contract out a design for a new shell, new control board and motor. Each revision and detail will cost you more. Do you sell the farm to produce an all out killer wheel, or do you spend more towards performance and make a cool looking wheel that should be "good enough?" These wheels are more hobbyist grade devices rather than polished Lexus flagship vehicles. It's easy to forget that we're still in the pioneering days of the Model T here as I see it. If these continue to take off, expect to see evolution and improvement with some shortcomings in the mix. Hopefully the ones who listen and see what improvements and features consumers are looking for will modify future designs and be rewarded for doing so with increased sales. fully agree, exactly why I've decided to support the "underdog" and buy Rockwheel. I still think that the overall design, with the air cooling and separate "box" for the controller on top of the wheel was a great move. The cool looks and awesome performance come with a tradeoff of a bunch of glitches that I was willing to accept ...and that I think I can fix with some tinkering. I think that all the stuff I mentioned could be fixed quite easily at the factory, but I have to try it to be sure. I'll document the mods I'm planning to make, to hopefully inspire the wonderfully responsive Rockwheel guys to add it to the standard version. (btw. one of my colleagues recently told me: "your previous unicycle (MCM4) was a bit dorky, but after seeing this one (GT16) I'm seriously thinking of getting one too - it just looks so cool" ) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 The GT16 shell is likely one of the best looking with its open wheel concept. It's so minimalistic yet is slick with the cool motorcycle like vents and angles. I hope they can take their design to the next level in future versions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomek Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: The GT16 shell is likely one of the best looking with its open wheel concept. It's so minimalistic yet is slick with the cool motorcycle like vents and angles. I hope they can take their design to the next level in future versions. i actually didnt like the design at first, glossy paints and glowing logo seemed corny and somehow reminded me of the alienware laptops. but IMO (at least the matte black version) looks really good in reality, and more compact than I've expected, felt smaller than my mcm4 (while it is a tiny bit larger in fact, and way heavier) Edited October 20, 2017 by Tomek 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 Sorry for necroposting, anyone knows where I can find the thread where a user used line-x to coat his cracked GT16 shell? Been looking everywhere and can't find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted September 6, 2020 Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Tinkererboi said: Sorry for necroposting, anyone knows where I can find the thread where a user used line-x to coat his cracked GT16 shell? Been looking everywhere and can't find it. Did you try a custom google search? This forum's search functionality is forgettable. For example (didn't find anything but maybe with the right search terms): https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aelectricunicycle.org+"line-x" Edited September 6, 2020 by meepmeepmayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted September 7, 2020 Share Posted September 7, 2020 @meepmeepmayer thanks for the tip! I finally found it. Apparently there is a version of polyurethane that can be hand painted after all.. Been itching to try this on my 16x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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