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Rode ACM 1300 for first time today. Disappointed in Gotway QC. Advise needed


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1 hour ago, Acturbo said:

Well after my ride last night I put her back on the desk this morning.  The gap that appears between the tire and shell seems to have actually increased instead of getting better.  I'm going to get another video up here when I get a chance, I'm going to put a tape measure and perhaps some calipers next to it so I can see exactly how much the discrepancy is.  I'm now leaning away from a shell defect and more towards a tire/rim issue.  

The saga continues.................................

From your video it appears that the motor rim was fine, so it's a tire issue. I know it's inconvenient, but re-seating the tire actually isn't too difficult - maybe an hour total. You only have to remove the non-control board side of the shell and you get total access to the tire. Of course you shouldn't have to do this with a new wheel, but it is what it is.

The hard part in these areas is to commit to the decision. Once you've set your mind to doing the work, it goes quickly and smoothly.

P.s. you will need to remove the battery panel on the control board to remove one screw that is near the top of the wheel. All the remaining work occurs on the non-control board side. I've done this so let me know if you have any questions.

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

From your video it appears that the motor rim was fine, so it's a tire issue. I know it's inconvenient, but re-seating the tire actually isn't too difficult - maybe an hour total. You only have to remove the non-control board side of the shell and you get total access to the tire. Of course you shouldn't have to do this with a new wheel, but it is what it is.

The hard part in these areas is to commit to the decision. Once you've set your mind to doing the work, it goes quickly and smoothly.

P.s. you will need to remove the battery panel on the control board to remove one screw that is near the top of the wheel. All the remaining work occurs on the non-control board side. I've done this so let me know if you have any questions.

Yes it would stink to take it apart.  I'll see what the seller wants me to do.  

Thanks

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2 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

From your video it appears that the motor rim was fine, so it's a tire issue. I know it's inconvenient, but re-seating the tire actually isn't too difficult - maybe an hour total. You only have to remove the non-control board side of the shell and you get total access to the tire. Of course you shouldn't have to do this with a new wheel, but it is what it is.

The hard part in these areas is to commit to the decision. Once you've set your mind to doing the work, it goes quickly and smoothly.

P.s. you will need to remove the battery panel on the control board to remove one screw that is near the top of the wheel. All the remaining work occurs on the non-control board side. I've done this so let me know if you have any questions.

Looks a bit more complicated here Marty.  Doesn't look like rocket surgery or anything like that but not as simple as you make it sound.  Do I not need to take it as far as this guy?  Whats the shortcut?

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Thats just a ton of screw removal and some connector diconnecting. You can do it too. Take pictures if you are nervous about the parts order or it not fitting properly.

That guy sure made it look like a lot of fun though. I am sure its like deboning a chicken. Once you do it once, it all seems easier from there on.

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1 minute ago, Stan Onymous said:

Thats just a ton of screw removal and some connector diconnecting. You can do it too. Take pictures if you are nervous about the parts order or it not fitting properly.

That guy sure made it look like a lot of fun though. I am sure its like deboning a chicken. Once you do it once, it all seems easier from there on.

No not nervous at all.  I've had 2 of my other wheels apart.  Just don't want to add unnecessary steps if I don't have to.  :) 

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52 minutes ago, Acturbo said:

Looks a bit more complicated here Marty.  Doesn't look like rocket surgery or anything like that but not as simple as you make it sound.  Do I not need to take it as far as this guy?  Whats the shortcut?

  1. Remove both pedals
  2. Open the control board side and only remove the one screw shown being removed at the 2:00 minute mark.
  3. Then, still on the control board side, remove only the outer shell screws
  4. You don't touch any of the cabling, connectors, battery, etc. on the control board side.
  5. You can reattach with a couple of screw the side panel to keep that battery secured for the next step
  6. Flip the wheel over
  7. Remove the panel
  8. Remove the the shell screws that hold the two shells together
  9. Remove the screws (6) that attach the shell to the pedal support
  10. Maybe put some tape across the battery to keep it from slipping out
  11. You should be able to rotate the shell up (like opening a suitcase) to gain full access to the tire to either remove it fully or readjust it.
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41 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:
  1. Remove both pedals
  2. Open the control board side and only remove the one screw shown being removed at the 2:00 minute mark.
  3. Then, still on the control board side, remove only the outer shell screws
  4. You don't touch any of the cabling, connectors, battery, etc. on the control board side.
  5. You can reattach with a couple of screw the side panel to keep that battery secured for the next step
  6. Flip the wheel over
  7. Remove the panel
  8. Remove the the shell screws that hold the two shells together
  9. Remove the screws (6) that attach the shell to the pedal support
  10. Maybe put some tape across the battery to keep it from slipping out
  11. You should be able to rotate the shell up (like opening a suitcase) to gain full access to the tire to either remove it fully or readjust it.

Awesome Marty, Thanks.  I had a feeling there was an easier way based on what you were saying before.  I'll get it removed this evening and see what we got going on.

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17 hours ago, TremF said:

I definitely wouldn't get away with riding a Meepo Board though even if I could our pavements (sidewalks) are really bad in most places :)

 

This is the biggest practicality issue with Meepo. The wheels are too small! It's only good for having fun in carefully selected riding areas, not as transportation.

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5 hours ago, Acturbo said:

Yes it would stink to take it apart.  I'll see what the seller wants me to do.  

Thanks

Acturbo it is actually fun to open up an EUC and see what makes it tick! Maybe the seller will provide you with some guidance on what panels to remove without voiding the warranty. Actually I'm not sure what a Gotway warranty entails anymore. 

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1 hour ago, Rehab1 said:

Acturbo it is actually fun to open up an EUC and see what makes it tick! Maybe the seller will provide you with some guidance on what panels to remove without voiding the warranty. Actually I'm not sure what a Gotway warranty entails anymore. 

Tis too late its already done.  :P  The seller is very nice and told me if the tire doesn't fix it he will take it back.  From everything I see after taking the shell apart it does appear to be the tire.  There is def no debris in case.  If you look at the video below you can see the high spot of the tire coming around.  Everything else is nice and clean and looks good.  The only other option would be a bent rim but I don't see any evidence of that.  

 

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1 hour ago, Acturbo said:

Tis too late its already done.  :P  The seller is very nice and told me if the tire doesn't fix it he will take it back.  From everything I see after taking the shell apart it does appear to be the tire.  There is def no debris in case.  If you look at the video below you can see the high spot of the tire coming around.  Everything else is nice and clean and looks good.  The only other option would be a bent rim but I don't see any evidence of that.  

 

Cool. Glad you bit the bullet so to speak. So what's your plan of attack at this point?

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1 minute ago, Marty Backe said:

Cool. Glad you bit the bullet so to speak. So what's your plan of attack at this point?

Well I just bought a tire.  Gonna replace it and see what happens.  If I still have the same issue I guess it's going to have to go back.  Seller is reimbursing me for the tire.

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1 minute ago, Acturbo said:

Well I just bought a tire.  Gonna replace it and see what happens.  If I still have the same issue I guess it's going to have to go back.  Seller is reimbursing me for the tire.

Well, I sure hope the tire puts an end to this whole experience. On a positive note, you've gotten more familiar with the ACM which removes some of its mystery :thumbup:

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28 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

Well, I sure hope the tire puts an end to this whole experience. On a positive note, you've gotten more familiar with the ACM which removes some of its mystery :thumbup:

I hope so as well.  I must say I like how easy it is to change the tire on the ACM.  I was expecting a much more painful experience.  

Thanks for your help Marty

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Alright, so I got another tire and installed it.  I have the same result as before.  I am lost as to what to do.  Is there something I could be missing?  I measured from the bottom of the pedal to the edge of the rim and rotated it all the way around with little to no change.  Maybe I got 2 bad tires?  Does anyone have any more suggestions on what to check or where to go with this?

Thanks

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1 hour ago, Acturbo said:

Alright, so I got another tire and installed it.  I have the same result as before.  I am lost as to what to do.  Is there something I could be missing?  I measured from the bottom of the pedal to the edge of the rim and rotated it all the way around with little to no change.  Maybe I got 2 bad tires?  Does anyone have any more suggestions on what to check or where to go with this?

Thanks

  • Locate the high spot on the tire and mark the location both on the tire and the motor rim.
  • Let air out of the tube enough so that you can rotate the tire on the rim by 180 degrees
  • Re-inflate the tire
  • Did the high spot move 180 degrees?

If the high spot moved then it seems to me it's the tire. If the high spot did not move then there must be something wrong with the rim or the inner tube. If the tube has some weak spots (where it inflates more) maybe that could cause the symptoms. If you inflate the tube without the tire on it maybe there would be a correlation between the high spot on the tire and the bulbous part of the tube.

Beyond that I have no ideas :confused1:

Wow, you got that replacement tire fast.

 

 

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1 minute ago, Marty Backe said:
  • Locate the high spot on the tire and mark the location both on the tire and the motor rim.
  • Let air out of the tube enough so that you can rotate the tire on the rim by 180 degrees
  • Re-inflate the tire
  • Did the high spot move 180 degrees?

If the high spot moved then it seems to me it's the tire. If the high spot did not move then there most be something wrong with the rim orbe the inner tube. If the tube has some weak spots (where it inflates more) maybe that could cause the symptoms. If you inflate the tub without the tire on it maybe there would be a correlation between the high spot on the tire and the bulbous part of the tube.

Beyond that I have no ideas :confused1:

Wow, you got that replacement tire fast.

 

 

Pulled the tube already and inflated it independent of the tire and it seems to inflate fine with no bulges or imperfections.  I went to a local bike shop and got the tire, that's how I was able to get it so fast.  

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1 hour ago, Acturbo said:

Alright, so I got another tire and installed it.  I have the same result as before.  I am lost as to what to do.  Is there something I could be missing?  I measured from the bottom of the pedal to the edge of the rim and rotated it all the way around with little to no change.  Maybe I got 2 bad tires?  Does anyone have any more suggestions on what to check or where to go with this?

Thanks

Sorry your having such issues. 2 bad tires would be rare. At this point I would be more inclined to find the exact spot where the tire is rubbing on the case and modify the case. The cases are injection molded and sometimes a bad batch can be produced. 

I heat and flare plastic all of the time to relieve pressure areas on my patient's braces. I would use the carpenters chalk method we discussed  earlier to locate the exact area of contact. Depending on the area that requires heating I could walk you though the process. 

You can use a simple heat gun with a condenser cone to concentrate the heat  on the region or a blow torch. Once I see the area in question I would gladly make a short video of the techniques I use. 

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2 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Sorry your having such issues. 2 bad tires would be rare. At this point I would be more inclined to find the exact spot where the tire is rubbing on the case and modify the case. The cases are injection molded and sometimes a bad batch can be produced. 

I heat and flare plastic all of the time to relieve pressure areas on my patient's braces. I would use the carpenters chalk method we discussed  earlier to locate the exact area of contact. Depending on the area that requires heating I could walk you though the process. 

You can use a simple heat gun with a condenser cone to concentrate the heat  on the region or a blow torch. Once I see the area in question I would gladly make a short video of the techniques I use. 

But he already has demonstrated that the tire is out of round (in his video). So it's not the shell, unless all of our tires are generally out of round???

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I wonder if loosening the shell bolts to the pedal support arms, shifting the case a little, and then re-tightening the shell bolts might do the trick.  If there's a little play that might shift the shell down a little too much allowing the tire to contact.  I bet most tires are never perfectly round so there needs to be some clearance.  One other trick might be to use a sandpaper block and try removing some tire material to the point where the sound disappears as the tire spins around.

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Just now, Stan Onymous said:

If the bulge is in the same place on the wheel, it may be a bad rim or something inside the rim not allowing the tire to seat in that position. Contact the seller and have him exchange it if all else fails.

I'll run a couple more tests and see what happens.  Thanks guys.  I really do want to keep it but I'm spending more time diagnosing a problem than riding.  The other strange part is that when ridden it feels fine.  I would think with a bent rim it would be felt while riding.  Very strange situation.  Lucky me lol.  

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1 minute ago, Marty Backe said:

But he already has demonstrated that the tire is out of round (in his video). So it's not the shell, unless all of our tires are generally out of round???

 I would need to see a second video of the newly installed tire rotating. It would nice if the new video was shot  in a quiet room as well.

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Yeah shifting it will probably help. I just did the tire thing on my V8 and am seeing a small imperfection in its roll as well. Mine works fine, but I did hear scraping the first 100 miles because of tire overinflation. I still over inflate it and the noise has gone away except when it digests asphalt or pebbles. The video of your tire looks similar to my disfigurement and mine rides fine. So its your call. If it gets worse send it back to the seller. How long is the warranty?

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